I am shaking fcuking mad, little help with KS, before I break something
#1
I am shaking ******* mad, little help with KS, before I break something
I am in the middle of trying to replace the KS and just can't keep the flex socket on the motherfcuker while I turn the ratchet. I am about to strip the bolt, what should I do?
#3
I tried it to begin with, I pulled it up againt the roof of the manifold, I wedged a long rod between the socket and the block, I even put superglue on the socket. All I got is partially stripped bolt.
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
How much does it cost to get it changed professionally?
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
How much does it cost to get it changed professionally?
#4
Originally Posted by Maciek
I tried it to begin with, I pulled it up againt the roof of the manifold, I wedged a long rod between the socket and the block, I even put superglue on the socket. All I got is partially stripped bolt.
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
How much does it cost to get it changed professionally?
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
How much does it cost to get it changed professionally?
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by mansurxk
are you using a 12mm flex? or a universal flex with a 12mm socket attached? i had the same problem, but it was because i kept using the 12mm attached to a universal flex, took me an hour to realize you dont get the correct angle if you use a flex+12mm instead of the 12mm flex
#11
take off your intake from the tb to the airbox. so u have room to try to stick part of your hand in there and push down on the 12mm socket.. turn the socket firm and slow if it starts to slip..remount the socket before u turn again..this is spose tobe an easy change.. put some wd 40 on the nut..try not to get any into the wires though..if this still doesnt work..just put soem duct tape all over your knuckles and squeeze your hand inthere with just the ractchet and socker and turn like madd..mayb a beer or 2 will help numb the pain..
#12
Originally Posted by eturnl
whats the difference, b/w these 2? do you have pics?
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by mansurxk
just imagine a 12mm socket that has a head that can pivot around, you cant remove the pivot, whereas the universal you can attach any socket to it and it will pivot around, in the case of the KS change, you dont have the correct angle if you use the universal pivot with a 12mm socket attached, i started stripping the bolt because of using something besides the 12mm pivot
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
knock sensor replacement tips
Yeah I would recomend enlisting the help of a little one or at least invest in some decent mechanics gloves. My M-Pact gloves saved my hand/ It was frustrating but with a tiny little 1/4 inch ratchet and the proper socket I was able to get it off and then to put the new one on.
#16
Sometime the KS is on so tight no amount of twisting will budge it. I almost broke the 12mm flex head (1/4") drive. Eventually, I had to use a regular ratchet to get it loosen first, then use the flex head to get it out. The professional would want to remove the intake manifold, $$$$ at least $300 job.
#17
u gotta connect the socket, the extention, and the wrench piece by piece.
step 1: stick your hand in and try to feel the location of the knock sensor
step 2: take the 12mm socket and put it on the 12mm bolt of the knock sensor, make sure it's secured on the spot
step 3:take the pivot socket and put it on the 12mm socket, carefully connect it
step 4: take the 3" extnsion and put it on the pivot socket, handle with care again
step 5: now u should be able to see the extention, now attach another 6" extension
step 6: attach the wrench on the 6" extension
step 7: this is very critical. use your left hand and make sure the entire socket/extention/wrench assembly is in place, turn the wrench with your right hand. it should come out with a bit of force. use common sense.
knock sensor 12mm bolt > 12mm socket > pivot socket > 3" extention > 6" extention > wrench
step 1: stick your hand in and try to feel the location of the knock sensor
step 2: take the 12mm socket and put it on the 12mm bolt of the knock sensor, make sure it's secured on the spot
step 3:take the pivot socket and put it on the 12mm socket, carefully connect it
step 4: take the 3" extnsion and put it on the pivot socket, handle with care again
step 5: now u should be able to see the extention, now attach another 6" extension
step 6: attach the wrench on the 6" extension
step 7: this is very critical. use your left hand and make sure the entire socket/extention/wrench assembly is in place, turn the wrench with your right hand. it should come out with a bit of force. use common sense.
knock sensor 12mm bolt > 12mm socket > pivot socket > 3" extention > 6" extention > wrench
#18
iansw had a really good technique to prevent the bolt from slipping from the socket when putting the new KS in. What you do is take 2 strips of electrical tape, and use it to help hold the bolt in. Once it's in, the tape is flexible enough to pull off the bolt when it's in place. Other than that....patience is the big thing. If you get it down right, you can actually do this in about 15 minutes. ![Big Grin](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
S
![Big Grin](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
S
#20
dump the rachet, use a 12mm box end or open end wrench and a small length of galvanized pipe for leverage.
it will feel tedious at first working with a small area but you will walk away with no scars.
trust me i have big hands.
it will feel tedious at first working with a small area but you will walk away with no scars.
trust me i have big hands.
#21
dump the rachet, use a 12mm box end or open end wrench and a small length of galvanized pipe for leverage.
it will feel tedious at first working with a small area but you will walk away with no scars.
trust me i have big hands.
it will feel tedious at first working with a small area but you will walk away with no scars.
trust me i have big hands.
#22
dump the rachet, use a 12mm box end or open end wrench and a small length of galvanized pipe for leverage.
it will feel tedious at first working with a small area but you will walk away with no scars.
trust me i have big hands.
it will feel tedious at first working with a small area but you will walk away with no scars.
trust me i have big hands.
#23
dump the rachet, use a 12mm box end or open end wrench and a small length of galvanized pipe for leverage.
it will feel tedious at first working with a small area but you will walk away with no scars.
trust me i have big hands.
it will feel tedious at first working with a small area but you will walk away with no scars.
trust me i have big hands.
#24
dump the rachet, use a 12mm box end or open end wrench and a small length of galvanized pipe for leverage.
it will feel tedious at first working with a small area but you will walk away with no scars.
trust me i have big hands.
it will feel tedious at first working with a small area but you will walk away with no scars.
trust me i have big hands.
#25
dump the rachet, use a 12mm box end or open end wrench and a small length of galvanized pipe for leverage.
it will feel tedious at first working with a small area but you will walk away with no scars.
trust me i have big hands.
it will feel tedious at first working with a small area but you will walk away with no scars.
trust me i have big hands.
#26
dump the rachet, use a 12mm box end or open end wrench and a small length of galvanized pipe for leverage.
it will feel tedious at first working with a small area but you will walk away with no scars.
trust me i have big hands.
it will feel tedious at first working with a small area but you will walk away with no scars.
trust me i have big hands.
#30
Originally Posted by mansurxk
are you using a 12mm flex? or a universal flex with a 12mm socket attached? i had the same problem, but it was because i kept using the 12mm attached to a universal flex, took me an hour to realize you dont get the correct angle if you use a flex+12mm instead of the 12mm flex
I have an appointment at a local shop Tuesday. They said $65 to replace it.
I would rather do it myself though, not even because of the $, but so I can finish what I started.
But I am wondering, can a shop screw something up in there while putting the thing on. There is so little room to work and they don't give a crap if they beat something up.
What do you all think I should do? Get the 12mm flex and try it again or go to the mechanic?
P.S. Thanks for all your replies. I thought I was gonna blow a gasket yesterday.
![GrinNo](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/grin_no.gif)
#32
I had trouble with the KS bolt too. I ended up going to Autozone and buying some PB Blaster. (The stuff is in a crazy looking can. Writing all over the place, looks like something from the 40's) I sprayed it good, waited 20 min, sprayed it again, and waited 20 more minutes. It came right off after that.
#33
Use electrical tape.
One strip on each side of the socket with the bolt in the middle of the two. This keeps it from slipping out of the socket completely and makes it alot easier to re-thread.
Use a 12" extension and a flex-socket then a short 12mm socket on the end of that, with the tape on the end holding the bolt in the socket.
Using this method I was able to change a KS in under 5 minutes.
One strip on each side of the socket with the bolt in the middle of the two. This keeps it from slipping out of the socket completely and makes it alot easier to re-thread.
Use a 12" extension and a flex-socket then a short 12mm socket on the end of that, with the tape on the end holding the bolt in the socket.
Using this method I was able to change a KS in under 5 minutes.
#34
What worked for me was using a small rachet with a 12mm socket, no flex. The rachet was about 6", so it fit flat inside that cave while resting on the bolt. I just shoved my hand in there, and once I got my wrist through I had some movement and comfort in there. I was able to turn the rachet within the cave area, small bits at a time, but relatively painless.
Try that, instead of the flexes and extensions, just hold on to a small rachet and stick your hand way in there, then fanagle with the rachet onto the bolt once your hand and it are situated under there. (btw this all with the left hand)
Try that, instead of the flexes and extensions, just hold on to a small rachet and stick your hand way in there, then fanagle with the rachet onto the bolt once your hand and it are situated under there. (btw this all with the left hand)
#35
Originally Posted by Maciek
Yeah, I was using 12mm socket on a universal flex. You might be right that this is the reason it keeps comming off when I turn the ratchet. I bought it at WalMart, cause that is the only place that was open on Sunday.
I have an appointment at a local shop Tuesday. They said $65 to replace it.
I would rather do it myself though, not even because of the $, but so I can finish what I started.
But I am wondering, can a shop screw something up in there while putting the thing on. There is so little room to work and they don't give a crap if they beat something up.
What do you all think I should do? Get the 12mm flex and try it again or go to the mechanic?
P.S. Thanks for all your replies. I thought I was gonna blow a gasket yesterday.![GrinNo](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/grin_no.gif)
I have an appointment at a local shop Tuesday. They said $65 to replace it.
I would rather do it myself though, not even because of the $, but so I can finish what I started.
But I am wondering, can a shop screw something up in there while putting the thing on. There is so little room to work and they don't give a crap if they beat something up.
What do you all think I should do? Get the 12mm flex and try it again or go to the mechanic?
P.S. Thanks for all your replies. I thought I was gonna blow a gasket yesterday.
![GrinNo](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/grin_no.gif)
#37
A universal flex with a 12mm socket is too tall, and puts the flex at too much of an angle to work right.
You might be able to get by with 1/4" drive stuff (since it is shorter) but it might break. I'd recommend purchasing a 3/8" drive 12mm flex socket. It has the flex section built right into the socket. I was able to purchase a new set of Craftsman 3/8" drive flex sockets (10-17mm) for less than $20 from a local 'tool guy'.
Good Luck!
You might be able to get by with 1/4" drive stuff (since it is shorter) but it might break. I'd recommend purchasing a 3/8" drive 12mm flex socket. It has the flex section built right into the socket. I was able to purchase a new set of Craftsman 3/8" drive flex sockets (10-17mm) for less than $20 from a local 'tool guy'.
Good Luck!
#38
OK, here is an update for you guys:
I went to Midas this morning for my $55 appointment to get the KS removed. After 1/2 hour of waiting they told me that they can't get the thing off and they are worried the bolt will get stripped. They came to a conclusion that it is not worth to them to risk stripping the bolt and having additional problems for $55 and the only way to get to it was by taking the manifold off.
So I called our local Nissan. And guess what was their price - $250!!!!!! For labor alone!
So my next stop was at Advance Auto for a can of Liqiud Wrench and a flex socket, but they didn't have it (socket).
The following stop was at Sears, where I bought a 6-point 12mm flex. And I am gonna attempt it again.
But I made two observations in todays ordeal:
1. Previously I used the multi point socket on a universal flex. Now the 6-point one looks like it is going to get a much better grip on it.
2. At Midas they had a great flex socket, it wasn't like the craftsman one made of 2 separate O-rings joined together, but a socket with the connector part inside of it, so it swiveled freely (sort of like a ball joint) so there was no snappingaction in the moddle of turning the ratchet.
Finally, I am almost done with my forced air intake, so I think I will wait till then with the KS, and have the OEM intake off (especially the resonator). This should give me a little more access to the opening
I went to Midas this morning for my $55 appointment to get the KS removed. After 1/2 hour of waiting they told me that they can't get the thing off and they are worried the bolt will get stripped. They came to a conclusion that it is not worth to them to risk stripping the bolt and having additional problems for $55 and the only way to get to it was by taking the manifold off.
So I called our local Nissan. And guess what was their price - $250!!!!!! For labor alone!
So my next stop was at Advance Auto for a can of Liqiud Wrench and a flex socket, but they didn't have it (socket).
The following stop was at Sears, where I bought a 6-point 12mm flex. And I am gonna attempt it again.
But I made two observations in todays ordeal:
1. Previously I used the multi point socket on a universal flex. Now the 6-point one looks like it is going to get a much better grip on it.
2. At Midas they had a great flex socket, it wasn't like the craftsman one made of 2 separate O-rings joined together, but a socket with the connector part inside of it, so it swiveled freely (sort of like a ball joint) so there was no snappingaction in the moddle of turning the ratchet.
Finally, I am almost done with my forced air intake, so I think I will wait till then with the KS, and have the OEM intake off (especially the resonator). This should give me a little more access to the opening
#39
Originally Posted by n2oMike
I'd recommend purchasing a 3/8" drive 12mm flex socket. It has the flex section built right into the socket.
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
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5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
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10-02-2015 08:56 AM