Ok... I just got my car dyno'd at the daytona beach 04 tuner bash... and i'm really disappointed...REALLY... ok it was my belief that our cars dyno'd stock at about 164 fwhp....no? ....

Well i've got an intake, full exhaust with stock resonator which all together i figured should net me about 20 fwhp (and thats conservative.....so alil math and i should be dyno'ing at 164.....

Well i dyno'd at 162.1 fwhp....Ummm thats less than stock can that be right at all? I mean I've got a cel but its for evap sensor and rear o2 sensor...could that be destroying my hp by as much as 20fwhp..... What do you guys think my problem is...car feels plenty fast when i drive it, i had it up to 135 mph on the highway with EASE last week (with the same cel light)....what do you guys think

 

Are you auto or 5 speed? I know firsthand that a popcharger doesn't give much gain if any at all, just a bunch of noise. Also, from what I understand, exhaust doesn't do much either but a y-pipe will.

 

you do not net 20 fwhp with just and intake and exhaust. You will gain about 5 whp at most. Ypipe will give you about 12 whp.

 

Was it SAE corrected hp?? That makes a difference you know. What was the elevation, temperature, humidity...etc. So many variables affect a dyno run. Did they use the fan in front of the car?

You are right. I have the same mods as you. I got a 96 5speed with i/y only and many people have dynoed ranging from 178-187 fwhp! Thats a big difference but 162hp?? Something might be wrong there. give us more info and we'll be able to help you out.

Also the O2 sensor might have something to do with it. I'm not sure tho.
-Paul

 

My car originally dynoed at 135hp with an intake and Y-Pipe.

Now it Dynos at 320.8

 

ok i guess some of you guys didn't understand the fact that i said i had a full exhaust, y-pipes are indeed part of your exhaust so i'd assume you'd realize i had them but its cool... To list the mods exactly i have Midpipe intake, y-pipes, test pipe and b pipe with stock resonator... now from what i've heard from other ppl that should make between 15-25 fwhp... which is where i got 20 fwhp from....scoring 162 on the dyno just seems off....i dunno if it was sae corrected doubtful since it was at an event...there was a fan in front of the car and the temp was about 75 degrees, humidity was low, and were in florida so elevation was nil....probably sea level .... i dunno, when the next time i'll be able to dyno it will be if ever, cause i'm not putting anymore more money into it cause i'm saving up for a gsxr600 or 750 which will run high 9's and low 10's with less than the 162 hp that i dyno'd at , but like i said car feels fine, and runs well so i dunno whats up.....

 

you mite have ghost 0304 like me.

stock auto dyno ardoun at 146whp
stock 5-spd dyno around 158whp

i'm auto and i made 139WHP with intake/y-pipe/exhaust.

nadir_s made 161WHP with bald tire/intake/catback 5spd.

hakk97se made 162whp with intake/y-pipe auto.

just throwing out numbers...hope that will help.

 

Dead Ks...

 

If you didnt dyno before the mods, then you have no idea what you "should be" making.

 

i know. but my point is that a malfunctional knock sensor is probably one of the factor that decrease performance. the margin of error between a stock auto maxima off SXN's car vs my auto with i/y/e is extremely noticible and rediculous. i'm not trying to examine the exact numbers on the dyno that should exist, just trying to make a point that malfunctional knock sensor kills performance.

anywayZ....yea...

 

an o2 sensor will definitely rob you of some precious ponies, its sending bunk messages to the combustion chambers and not making a good explosion.

 

Why do people honestly expect their cars to be running at full performance with friggin CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS?

For all you know it's running extra rich for safety with a blown O2, and it may even be pulling timing too. Gimme a break. Fix your issues, re-dyno, and THEN talk about your dyno numbers compared to others.


Somebody lock this.

 

But the rear O2 sensor is used only for detecting problems with the catalytic converter (he has the 0707 code because of the test pipe), it doesn't affect performance at all (according to the FSM). I dynoed 182 hp with y-pipe, test pipe and intake (5-speed) with the same code, so it has to be something else.

I don't know about the evap code, but I doubt an evap problem has any affect on WOT performance.

 

cuz...

1. i planned the dyno meet, so i can't flake out.
**2. the freaking new knock sensor did not arrive in time, it arrived couple days after the dyno meet.
3. turbo95max offered $50/3 runs deal so i was trying to be supportive

haha...ur probably like "whatever ricefob hella excuses " but it's true! oh well...it wasn't the dyno that i cared too much, i had good time meeting people like postwhore SXN and krazy ram-air spaniard, and cool dood hakk97se.






but i donno about TonyGotSkilz's excuses...

 

Well i dyno'd mine with a cel, cause A. i'm broke (two words COLLEGE STUDENT) and B. since the tuner bash was in town for only 2 days and i got to dyno for free as opposed to the usual 75 bucks (see A.) I took them up on the offer... As far as my issues if all those numbers that happyricefob threw out are correct then screw it i'm not to worried...as far as knock sensor, i've had the knock sensor go before, and the difference was insane...doesn't feel like its the ks to me this time, when it went last time i couldn't spin my front tires from a stop, now i can roast them.

I'll post the dyno graph tomorrow so you guys can see it, another weird thing is i made peak hp at 117 mph (it says) would that be about right? When do your dyno's say you make peak hp?

 

peak WHP is determined by your rpm...not speed.

 

Dyno operators get lazy sometimes and don't hook up to the engine tach signal, so they use drum rotational speed, which translates to vehicle mph. You can calculate the engine rpm knowing the distance from the center of your wheels to the contact patch (which will be a little less than the wheel radius due to compression of the tire at the contact patch), the gear ratio of the gear you dynoed in and the final drive ratio. The calculation goes like this:

engine rpm = (mph X 5280 ft/mi X 1 hr/60 min X 12 in/ft X final drive ratio X gear ratio) / (2 X pi X wheel radius in inches)

 

dyno operators got lazy? wtf?

lol...i know the formula works. but that's hella...ghetto lol okie whatever works...

 

yeah it was a mobil dyno at the tuner bash and i know they didn't hook up anything, so thats why my dyno plot goes hp on left mph on botton, i really don't care what rpms it was doesn't seem relevent, cause it was at wot....