97 clutch slipping
#2
Originally posted by tanks1
I have a 1997 se with a manual transmission. My clutch is
starting to slip. Will this require a new clutch or
can it be adjusted? Also, what is a fair price range
for the work?
Thanks for the help.
I have a 1997 se with a manual transmission. My clutch is
starting to slip. Will this require a new clutch or
can it be adjusted? Also, what is a fair price range
for the work?
Thanks for the help.
4Gen Maxima clutches have a hydraulic actuator. There is no provision for adjustment. If your clutch is slipping it must be replaced.
My Nissan dealer advertises a clutch replacement at US$400. This price gets you a Nissan Key Value (low price line) clutch kit. Some Nissan owners have complained about the quality of Key Value parts. I haven't tried them.
Independent shops in my area advertise clutch replacements for US$300. This price gets you a Brand X clutch. Beware!
#3
ouch! $400 for a stock clutch? geez, what is Nissan thinking LOL
aftermarket ones like ACT and Centerforce provide a higher torque capacity at a lower cost ($300ish). If you have to replace a stock part, upgrade at the same time.
aftermarket ones like ACT and Centerforce provide a higher torque capacity at a lower cost ($300ish). If you have to replace a stock part, upgrade at the same time.
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
400.00 is that the total price...ie
Does that include labor?
Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
A good test for a slipping clutch is to travel on a level road at 50 mph in 5th gear. Floor the gas pedal. If the engine rpm increases quickly but the vehicle speed does not, you have a slipping clutch. The sensation is similar to spinning your wheels on an icy roadway.
4Gen Maxima clutches have a hydraulic actuator. There is no provision for adjustment. If your clutch is slipping it must be replaced.
My Nissan dealer advertises a clutch replacement at US$400. This price gets you a Nissan Key Value (low price line) clutch kit. Some Nissan owners have complained about the quality of Key Value parts. I haven't tried them.
Independent shops in my area advertise clutch replacements for US$300. This price gets you a Brand X clutch. Beware!
A good test for a slipping clutch is to travel on a level road at 50 mph in 5th gear. Floor the gas pedal. If the engine rpm increases quickly but the vehicle speed does not, you have a slipping clutch. The sensation is similar to spinning your wheels on an icy roadway.
4Gen Maxima clutches have a hydraulic actuator. There is no provision for adjustment. If your clutch is slipping it must be replaced.
My Nissan dealer advertises a clutch replacement at US$400. This price gets you a Nissan Key Value (low price line) clutch kit. Some Nissan owners have complained about the quality of Key Value parts. I haven't tried them.
Independent shops in my area advertise clutch replacements for US$300. This price gets you a Brand X clutch. Beware!
#7
OMG! If you use a Nissan Key Value Crap Kit, I will personally slap you!! I put one in my 3-gen VE. It slipped worse than the old one!! POS!!! I had the honor of doing two clutch jobs! Not my idea of a great time trust me!
For clutch parts, either buy the GENUINE Nissan OEM parts(not the kit!) or go aftermarket like Got Rice said. If you have the spare time, get your stock flywheel lightened/balanced(read my write-up in the faq section)
For just bolt-on mods, my VE stock clutch has held up very well.
Contrary to what has been posted, you might be able to get some more life from your clutch. Dan is 100% correct about no adjustment on the slave cylinder but if you look under where the clutch pedal is, there is sometimes a provision to adjust the clutch pedal travel length(at the master cylinder) If the clutch is not dis-engaging all the way due to a pedal travel restriction, it might cause some slip. There should be a lock nut and a threaded rod to adjust the amount of rod length into the master cylinder. If you are unconfortable w/ this work, go to a local mechanic.
For clutch parts, either buy the GENUINE Nissan OEM parts(not the kit!) or go aftermarket like Got Rice said. If you have the spare time, get your stock flywheel lightened/balanced(read my write-up in the faq section)
For just bolt-on mods, my VE stock clutch has held up very well.
Contrary to what has been posted, you might be able to get some more life from your clutch. Dan is 100% correct about no adjustment on the slave cylinder but if you look under where the clutch pedal is, there is sometimes a provision to adjust the clutch pedal travel length(at the master cylinder) If the clutch is not dis-engaging all the way due to a pedal travel restriction, it might cause some slip. There should be a lock nut and a threaded rod to adjust the amount of rod length into the master cylinder. If you are unconfortable w/ this work, go to a local mechanic.
#8
I don't think so...
Originally posted by Jeff92se
... if you look under where the clutch pedal is, there is sometimes a provision to adjust the clutch pedal travel length(at the master cylinder) If the clutch is not dis-engaging all the way due to a pedal travel restriction, it might cause some slip. There should be a lock nut and a threaded rod to adjust the amount of rod length into the master cylinder. If you are unconfortable w/ this work, go to a local mechanic.
... if you look under where the clutch pedal is, there is sometimes a provision to adjust the clutch pedal travel length(at the master cylinder) If the clutch is not dis-engaging all the way due to a pedal travel restriction, it might cause some slip. There should be a lock nut and a threaded rod to adjust the amount of rod length into the master cylinder. If you are unconfortable w/ this work, go to a local mechanic.
#9
Re: I don't think so...
That's why I said "may". If the clutch disc is super thin now, it "might" not be releasing fully now. My buddy just adjusted his clutch on his Toyota 4X4 and it helped the clutch release by a little bit. We don't know what previous work was done on the car before.(stock clutch/after market/previous adjustment etc..) How do you know it wasn't just slightly out of adjustment and only now(w/ the thin clutch disc) is it showing up? The T/O bearing could be wearing faster than normal, just has not failed yet.
Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
The clutch master cylinder pushrod has a length adjustment, just as you said. I would touch this only when installing a different master. I will be amazed if making this adjustment now will make a slipping clutch stop slipping. If this does work, it means that pushrod was out of adjustment since day one, and the pedal always had zero free play. Zero free play leads to an early failure of the clutch release bearing.
The clutch master cylinder pushrod has a length adjustment, just as you said. I would touch this only when installing a different master. I will be amazed if making this adjustment now will make a slipping clutch stop slipping. If this does work, it means that pushrod was out of adjustment since day one, and the pedal always had zero free play. Zero free play leads to an early failure of the clutch release bearing.
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