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Can I achieve these #s with these mods?

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Old Mar 28, 2004 | 09:39 PM
  #1  
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Can I achieve these #s with these mods?

i have a 96 max. with a y-pipe, air intake, and a catback exhaust, could i achieve 205hp and 220ft lbs? my ultimate goal is 220hp and 240ft lbs. how can i achieve this without having to supercharge/turbocharge it? is it even possible?
Old Mar 28, 2004 | 09:47 PM
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MEVI and JWT ECU should be your next mod. Maybe even a UDP.
Old Mar 28, 2004 | 11:01 PM
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Not really. You will gain hp at a bigger rate than tq. RIght now you maybe have 210hp/215tq. When you have 220hp you'll have around 220tq as well.
Old Mar 28, 2004 | 11:05 PM
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You guys must be talking rubbish numbers. No it will never be possible to reach near 220fwhp/240fwtq. Notice that i'm assuming you're talking actual power because crank power is junk. You might be able to achieve 205fwhp, but never 220fwtq with basic bolt ons. Maybe if you had full exhaust, UDP, MEVI, JWT ECU, cams, headers you might approach that number, but even then i still doubt the torque numbers. 96sleeper since he converted to stick is putting down 204fwhp i believe.

LEMAR
Old Mar 28, 2004 | 11:15 PM
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I think your car stock is 190hp & 205ftlbs. torque.
If you were at sea level you might already be pretty close to those numbers. But seeing that you live in Denver "The mile high city" you need to factor in this ratio. It is said that for every 300ft. you are above sea level you lose 1% of your total power output. So if my vehicle stock is 200hp w/ 200ftlb of torque & I am 3,000ft. above sea level then my actually power output would be 190hp & 190ftlbs of torque.

I have been debating this in my head for awhile & seeing that i am around 3,000ft above sea level what I want to do is use a small amount Nitrous Oxide to fool my computer into thinking that I am actually at sea level. I'm pretty sure that Nitrous will be able to do this for me since it makes the intake air denser & cooler. Kinda like if I was near the beach on a cool night. Granted I know this isn't going to help me all the time, but when ever some clown wants to get silly I can always flick a switch & arm my Nitrous system. I look at it as having good & bad properties, On one hand it's not always on. On the other hand I wish it could be on all the time... You see where I'm going with this? Just imagine what your can would run like @ sea level. My ex girlfriend lives in Westminster, CO & I've been out there a few times. So I know how badly a vehicle starves for air out there, but with alittle bit of Nitrous it would feel alot stronger. I'm not talking about using a 50hp shot or anything, just maybe 20hp shot. Just enough so the computer will reconize the difference in the air & compensate for the additional fuel needed...
Old Mar 29, 2004 | 06:44 PM
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so what do you think i could run the quarter in with 210hp and 210ft lbs? assuming everything else on the car is stock?
Old Mar 29, 2004 | 07:03 PM
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Well it all depends. You have to factor in if your a auto or stick, are you on street tires or drag slicks, was your reaction time good or bad. You know what I'm saying. Some guy's with sticks can break into the 14's without an modifications & most guy's with auto's probably run low 15's bone stock. I would say with that much power & torque, if you can get a good launch & not spin the tires too much you should be able to run low 14's maybe even get into the 13's. I have seen some time slip's on here of other maxima's bone stock with just a 35hp shot of nitrous run low 13's. So I have to say it's hard to tell what you'd run in the 1/4 mile. You would just have to get that info by trial & error if you get my drift... One thing to remember is even though the 5th generation maxima's are rated at 222hp & us 4th generation max owners are only rated at 190hp we will still spank the 5th gen maxima's in the 1/4 mile because of our wheel & tire combination. The weight factory of your wheels is the biggest difference between the 2 generation of vehicles. If you go to Maxfaq's you can read all about it. The dyno's show the newer maxima's make more power on the dyno, but our time slip's in the 1/4 are faster. Maybe you should'nt be so concerned with getting to 220hp but maybe you should think about buying some lighter rim's & tires. This will make a big difference in how fast your vehicle will accelerate. Who needs a MEVI intake when your car already rev's out super quick....
Old Mar 29, 2004 | 09:22 PM
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nobody in colorado is gunna run anywhere near those numbers stock...trust me i know i live in colorado springs...and when i was stock i the fastest i ran was a 17.510 @ 80.80..i have the same mods as he does...wiper im goin down to pmi soon ill tell you want i run.
Old Mar 30, 2004 | 12:02 AM
  #9  
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I know that his times won't be that fast. Thats why I said it's all trial & error. But with his mod's out where I live those numbers are not that unreasonable for those performance upgrades. If you read further up on the previous post I explain how he will take into account that for every 300ft. you are above sea level you loss 1% of your totally power output. But if his vehicle was producing 220hp & 220ftlb. of torque in Colorado he could possibly run 14's in the quarter mile. Try to remember if his vehicle is producing that much power on a dyno in Colorado then he would be even faster at lower altitudes... When you do go to the track try to post you time slip's to the site so people can see the difference @ being in higher altitudes. Thanks!!!
Old Mar 30, 2004 | 01:10 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by RastaManMax
You guys must be talking rubbish numbers. No it will never be possible to reach near 220fwhp/240fwtq. Notice that i'm assuming you're talking actual power because crank power is junk. You might be able to achieve 205fwhp, but never 220fwtq with basic bolt ons. Maybe if you had full exhaust, UDP, MEVI, JWT ECU, cams, headers you might approach that number, but even then i still doubt the torque numbers. 96sleeper since he converted to stick is putting down 204fwhp i believe.

LEMAR


What are all you guys talking about? Dont even bother mentioning crank numbers. You have to talk about wheel numbers. And at Denver altitudes, it's gunna hurt, a lot. A 5spd max with pretty much ALL naturally aspirated bolt-ons is going to make 190-200 fwhp. You have a lot more mods to go to get there. And to answer your question, no, a NA max will not hit anywhere near 220fwhp, let alone 220fwtq, with simple bolt-ons. Probably wouldn't make it there without internal engine modifications. Either way, you'll *never* see that at altitude.

Sorry to burst your bubble.
Old Mar 30, 2004 | 01:22 AM
  #11  
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its all on the driver but on average, your mods give a potential of mid to low 14's, I highly doubt you'll get in 13's with just those mods, unless you do some serious weight reduction on car and you are an incredible driver.
Old Mar 30, 2004 | 07:51 AM
  #12  
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My advice is to the sell the car or SC/turbo it if you plan on living in Denver. Naturally aspirated cars are choking for power at altitude whereas forced induced cars (SC and turbo) loose very little power as altitude increases. This is because as altitude increases they can boost higher to compensate for the lack of air. A boosted car may loose .2-.3 seconds at 5000' whereas an NA car will loose well over 1 second. I'd be looking at 1.8T cars, Grand Prix GTP/Buick Regals, and WRXs. The amount of time and money it will take to go 14s in a Maxima at 5000' would be a waste, IMO. With a MEVI/JWT ECU, Y-pipe, and intake you'll be making ~200fwhp/195fwtq. Adding a catback, flywheel, and UDP may net you 205-207fwhp/200fwtq. After that it's going to be headers and cams and then you're probably looking at 220fwhp/210fwtq. Overall, that's well over $3000 in mods and you'd be lucky to crack a 14.9 at Bandimere. For $3500 new and about $2500-2800 used you could buy a SC kit and be running well into the 14s.

BTW, you make no mention of if you're a 5 speed or auto. If you're an auto then all power numbers quoted above will be about 15-20hp less and times will be .4+ and 3-4mph slower.


Dave
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