Put rebuilt engine in...car won't start.
#1
Put rebuilt engine in...car won't start.
I rebuilt my engine because a butterfly valve screw from my MEVI destroyed it. Well now that the engine is in it won't start.
I have a few theories: first of all the gas has been in the tank for 11 months so I am thinking condensation and possibly the gas going bad to be my problem. I am going to drain it and put new stuff in.
I also may not have purged all the air from the fuel lines so I will try that again as well.
I checked for codes and only got an egr code that I'll worry about later.
My problem is I have already turned it over twice and I want to figure out what is wrong for sure before I turn it over again because the pre assembly lube I put in it is only good for so long. What other diagnostic tips can you give me before I turn it over again?
I have a few theories: first of all the gas has been in the tank for 11 months so I am thinking condensation and possibly the gas going bad to be my problem. I am going to drain it and put new stuff in.
I also may not have purged all the air from the fuel lines so I will try that again as well.
I checked for codes and only got an egr code that I'll worry about later.
My problem is I have already turned it over twice and I want to figure out what is wrong for sure before I turn it over again because the pre assembly lube I put in it is only good for so long. What other diagnostic tips can you give me before I turn it over again?
#2
Originally Posted by SLC98Max
I rebuilt my engine because a butterfly valve screw from my MEVI destroyed it. Well now that the engine is in it won't start.
I have a few theories: first of all the gas has been in the tank for 11 months so I am thinking condensation and possibly the gas going bad to be my problem. I am going to drain it and put new stuff in.
I also may not have purged all the air from the fuel lines so I will try that again as well.
I checked for codes and only got an egr code that I'll worry about later.
My problem is I have already turned it over twice and I want to figure out what is wrong for sure before I turn it over again because the pre assembly lube I put in it is only good for so long. What other diagnostic tips can you give me before I turn it over again?
I have a few theories: first of all the gas has been in the tank for 11 months so I am thinking condensation and possibly the gas going bad to be my problem. I am going to drain it and put new stuff in.
I also may not have purged all the air from the fuel lines so I will try that again as well.
I checked for codes and only got an egr code that I'll worry about later.
My problem is I have already turned it over twice and I want to figure out what is wrong for sure before I turn it over again because the pre assembly lube I put in it is only good for so long. What other diagnostic tips can you give me before I turn it over again?
Hmmm. Damaged crank or camshaft position sensor? That would probably throw a code, but it might not at first.
Difficult starting is caused by lack of fuel, lack of spark and spark at the wrong time. Check to make sure:
1. fuel lines hooked up correctly
2. fuel pressure
3. fuel flow into cylinders (you can check this by pulling plugs and cranking, you should smell gas being delivered)
4. plugs are sparking
5. ignition timing is correct (you can check base ignition timing with a timing light)
I wouldn't worry about the assembly lube. First of all, at the low cranking speed, the lube is not going to go away that fast and lubrication needs are not great. Secondly, the oil pump is going to be pumping, even at cranking speed.
#3
Originally Posted by Stephen Max
Hmmm. Damaged crank or camshaft position sensor? That would probably throw a code, but it might not at first.
Difficult starting is caused by lack of fuel, lack of spark and spark at the wrong time. Check to make sure:
1. fuel lines hooked up correctly
2. fuel pressure
3. fuel flow into cylinders (you can check this by pulling plugs and cranking, you should smell gas being delivered)
4. plugs are sparking
5. ignition timing is correct (you can check base ignition timing with a timing light)
I wouldn't worry about the assembly lube. First of all, at the low cranking speed, the lube is not going to go away that fast and lubrication needs are not great. Secondly, the oil pump is going to be pumping, even at cranking speed.
Difficult starting is caused by lack of fuel, lack of spark and spark at the wrong time. Check to make sure:
1. fuel lines hooked up correctly
2. fuel pressure
3. fuel flow into cylinders (you can check this by pulling plugs and cranking, you should smell gas being delivered)
4. plugs are sparking
5. ignition timing is correct (you can check base ignition timing with a timing light)
I wouldn't worry about the assembly lube. First of all, at the low cranking speed, the lube is not going to go away that fast and lubrication needs are not great. Secondly, the oil pump is going to be pumping, even at cranking speed.
One question though, I tried draining the fuel by connecting a hose on the fuel pump output and leading it to a gas can. I then turned the key to on expecting the pump to pump the fuel. It pumped for about a second and then turned off. It continued doing this every time I tried it. Is there a safety that won't allow the pump to pump when the engine isn't running or does it require a pressure in the return line? Is there a way to bypass either?
#4
Originally Posted by SLC98Max
One question though, I tried draining the fuel by connecting a hose on the fuel pump output and leading it to a gas can. I then turned the key to on expecting the pump to pump the fuel. It pumped for about a second and then turned off. It continued doing this every time I tried it. Is there a safety that won't allow the pump to pump when the engine isn't running or does it require a pressure in the return line? Is there a way to bypass either?
That is normal behavior. If the car doesn't start up pretty quick, the fuel pump stops. It should pump enough to pressurize the fuel rail, though.
There is a way to run your fuel pump directly from the battery, but I am not going to recommend it. I have done it, though.
#5
Originally Posted by Stephen Max
That is normal behavior. If the car doesn't start up pretty quick, the fuel pump stops. It should pump enough to pressurize the fuel rail, though.
There is a way to run your fuel pump directly from the battery, but I am not going to recommend it. I have done it, though.
There is a way to run your fuel pump directly from the battery, but I am not going to recommend it. I have done it, though.
#8
Originally Posted by SLC98Max
Well I got the maxima running. I have to work out a few kinks but other than that it is running great. A big thanks to StephenMax for your help.
#9
Originally Posted by Stephen Max
Good deal. Did you determine what the problem was?
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