meccanoble

iTrader: (22)

the fronts have holes which u can place screws in but the back doesnt. HOW on earth do i take these off. I tried banging but it doesnt seem to be enough. Thank god i started this in the morn so i have time for an answer. PLease help anyone that has changed rear rotors

AusFlt

just tap it with a hammer...if they are junk hit it hard. Than just keep turning it around and hitting it.....it takes time but it will come off

meccanoble

iTrader: (22)

f#ck man, its not working at all!

and someone told me u dont push the rear caliper pistons back in like in the front, you have to turn them? what is this about?

cobraman

Had the same problem. The rotors accumulate a little rust and stick on. The problem with using the holes is you need a bolt that fits the hole. I couldn't find one. What I did is I bought this at sears.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...&bidsite=CRAFT

Get one of these and bang the backside of the rotor hard. Also turn the rotor after each hit. It will come of eventually.

Regarding your other issue. To get the rear caliper piston in you have to apply pressure and turn it. You need to do this is if you are going to put in new pads, since the new pads will be thicker. There are slots in it to grip it. You can use a tool like this or a pair of pliers.

http://www.discbrakesrus.com/pistontoolrear.jpg

Notice this tool has different sides to fit different piston grooves. You can probably find this tool in the Sears automotive center.

One word of advise. Get the Haynes manual for this car. It comes in handy.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...glance&s=books

Pappa Grande

you can get the little tool that cobra man listed above at your local auto parts or napa. It attaches to your ratchet and you put on the piston and turn it. If your rotors and calipers are old and rusty like mine you will not be able to do it with just pliars. I would get the tool.

Mishmosh

iTrader: (3)

Are yours aftermarket rotors because OEM has two holes just like the front ones do...only smaller holes (M8 size).

meccanoble

iTrader: (22)

they must be cheap aftermarket BS.

I cant run to sears right now, my car is on 3 legs, i need a resolution involving what i have as tools, and a little science. I'm so tired man, i'm bout to give up

are back brakes used anytime besides wit ebrake cause if i put this stuff back, the pads are gonna be messed up....

meccanoble

iTrader: (22)

God i'm so f*cking mad right now. Its already hard for me as a noob, why these dumb a$$ obstacles have to come up. I just went to nearby gas station a block away to ask if i drove real slow with calipers hanging would they bang rotor off for a good price, they talking 40 dollars each side. F#CK THEM!

plan b. i just went to my boy's house and got some WD-40, sprayed the sh*T out of the hub then going back to work. I didnt get any sleep man, thats probably why i'm mad, i wanted to be done an hour ago and have enough sleep before work but like all DIY's done by Mecca, things just take much longer than expected :rollseyes:

gtr_rider

iTrader: (50)

I use this, and it works real good.

meccanoble

iTrader: (22)

i finally got that b*tch out and it only took me 3 hours. :rollseyes:

A5295

iTrader: (1)

Proud to hear ya got it off. Now lets hope everything goes back to gether easy. I know your pain about things taking longer. Its the same way with me.

meccanoble

iTrader: (22)

3 hours later and i'm still trying to get the facking caliper on. That POS tool mentioned above sucks massive herpez *****. i nearly popped a vein trying to twist that sh*t, and it feels like its making the points of the caliper piston blunt.

I have work at 5 so i guess i'll only be able to do one side. I should be ok right? unbelievable how it took me 7 hours to do one side......

aussie983

iTrader: (16)

Heres a tip. Buy some antiseize, and apply it thinly over the part where the rotor touches the hub. That way it won't be a b|itch next time you replace your rotors. They should come right off.