Replacing Rear Wheel Studs...HELP!!
05-07-2004, 07:14 AM
#2
Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 72
I don't know of any how to but I have done this a few times, (more than I ever wanted to) and I could never replace them all at once cuz none of the auto shops had enough wheel studs and/or nuts.
Tools:
C-clamp
socket wrench
I think 10mm
and 12mm sockets, maybe 14mm
Hammer
open ended nut
Its not hard to do at all, This is the way I've done it in the past, after you take off the wheel, remove the brake caliper and brake pads, 2 10mm bolts. I usually set the caliper on top and it stays pretty good. Next you will have to take off the Bracket 2(12 or 14mm). Once this is off you can shimmy off your rotor. Now you have full access to your wheel studs. I believe there is a notch on the backside where you will have to line up the wheel stud , bcuz if you don't you will not be able to get the wheel stud off. Turn it until the wheel stud lines up with the notch and hammer away on the front of the wheel stud, it may take some whackin , but I'm sure your used to that.
After that wheel stud is off, then you can put the new wheel stud on , then use the open ended nut and tighten it down so that the back of the wheel stud becomes flush, you can also hammer the back of the wheel stud to help this alon, be careful not to tighten past the threads on the wheel stud.
Reassmble in backwards order, and also use the C-clamp to push back in the caliper if it does not fit back on the brake pads.
You may notice getting a few extra turns when tightening down the nuts on your wheel , this is usually from the wheel stud not being completely flush yet.
Good Luck !
Tools:
C-clamp
socket wrench
I think 10mm
and 12mm sockets, maybe 14mm
Hammer
open ended nut
Its not hard to do at all, This is the way I've done it in the past, after you take off the wheel, remove the brake caliper and brake pads, 2 10mm bolts. I usually set the caliper on top and it stays pretty good. Next you will have to take off the Bracket 2(12 or 14mm). Once this is off you can shimmy off your rotor. Now you have full access to your wheel studs. I believe there is a notch on the backside where you will have to line up the wheel stud , bcuz if you don't you will not be able to get the wheel stud off. Turn it until the wheel stud lines up with the notch and hammer away on the front of the wheel stud, it may take some whackin , but I'm sure your used to that.
After that wheel stud is off, then you can put the new wheel stud on , then use the open ended nut and tighten it down so that the back of the wheel stud becomes flush, you can also hammer the back of the wheel stud to help this alon, be careful not to tighten past the threads on the wheel stud.
Reassmble in backwards order, and also use the C-clamp to push back in the caliper if it does not fit back on the brake pads.
You may notice getting a few extra turns when tightening down the nuts on your wheel , this is usually from the wheel stud not being completely flush yet.
Good Luck !
05-07-2004, 10:35 AM
#4
Did you get it done yourself?
I haven't had to do the rears, but I don't think that you would even have to take off the caliper. Just make sure that the e-brake is not on, but rather in gear so that you will be able to turn the rotor with the car jacked up. Then, just do all of the steps the same, but you should not have to take off the caliper and housing.
I did take everything off when I did the front ones, but in hinds sight, it would have been easier not to do so.
Also, if you don't have an open-ended lug nut, just put the wheel back on and tighten back down. Then, just take the wheel off to make sure you got it flush. If you did or if you didn't, just put the wheel back on and tighten it down. I only had to do this twice, but it is easier, I am sure, than having to clamp the caliper and put all that back on the rotor.
NOTE** I have heard that you need a special rotating tool for the rear calipers to squeeze them down. The fronts, you can just use a c-clamp.
I haven't had to do the rears, but I don't think that you would even have to take off the caliper. Just make sure that the e-brake is not on, but rather in gear so that you will be able to turn the rotor with the car jacked up. Then, just do all of the steps the same, but you should not have to take off the caliper and housing.
I did take everything off when I did the front ones, but in hinds sight, it would have been easier not to do so.
Also, if you don't have an open-ended lug nut, just put the wheel back on and tighten back down. Then, just take the wheel off to make sure you got it flush. If you did or if you didn't, just put the wheel back on and tighten it down. I only had to do this twice, but it is easier, I am sure, than having to clamp the caliper and put all that back on the rotor.
NOTE** I have heard that you need a special rotating tool for the rear calipers to squeeze them down. The fronts, you can just use a c-clamp.
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