!!super Slow Maxima!!
#1
!!super Slow Maxima!!
Hello guys once again im n need of help
my 1996 5sp maxima is so so slow... first and second are not that bad(but not how it should be). but 3rd,4th, and 5th, are super super slow at WOT. i have 2 codes temp. sensor & knock sensor. i know the knock sensor will kill gas miles and lower my power, but the power lost n my car is beyond that. i also had a bad knock sensor n my other 95 5sp max and it was no where near as slow as this one. So if you guys could please make a list of the things i need to check. Pretty much everything n the car is stock (but hack airbox). I love my car, but it's just so slow. my friends 1991 stock civic is beats me and my friends, 240sx with an aem intakes just kills me(way way faster then me) but with my other maxima i smoke him so bad will all that said i wont waste anymore of your time and thank you very much for reading my problem
my 1996 5sp maxima is so so slow... first and second are not that bad(but not how it should be). but 3rd,4th, and 5th, are super super slow at WOT. i have 2 codes temp. sensor & knock sensor. i know the knock sensor will kill gas miles and lower my power, but the power lost n my car is beyond that. i also had a bad knock sensor n my other 95 5sp max and it was no where near as slow as this one. So if you guys could please make a list of the things i need to check. Pretty much everything n the car is stock (but hack airbox). I love my car, but it's just so slow. my friends 1991 stock civic is beats me and my friends, 240sx with an aem intakes just kills me(way way faster then me) but with my other maxima i smoke him so bad will all that said i wont waste anymore of your time and thank you very much for reading my problem
#3
Don't be so sure the KS won't be the difference. Replace that then see where you're at. It does make a HUGE difference. Might as well look into the other code as well, I don't know if it will help with the power loss, but a broken sensor is never a good thing. Good luck, and have fun replacing that KS.
#4
Originally Posted by bravehart
how many miles are on your clutch? have you checked your fuel filter & spark plugs? do you use premium gas?
#8
Originally Posted by OneToughMax
have you checked your plugs? try replacing the plugs, cleaning your injectors, and cleaning your tb. that should help you out a little bit
#9
Originally Posted by mAxPwEr4Us
I will change oil, spart plugs, and clean injectors and Tb tomorrow.... changing the KS is being a pain right now b/c the car is so damn hot oh well should be done soon tho thanx for the replys
#10
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
You should have changed the temp sensor first and reset the ECU to see if the KS code goes away. If the temp sensor (and ECU) can't determine the engine operating temperature then your car cannot possibly run correctly. That should have been the first thing changed to get the engine running correctly.
A good tune up will also give you back some lost power. Check to see when the last time a major service was performed. If it's over 50,000 miles, then your due for a major service. Plugs, Fuel filter, PCV valve, Air filter and a good throttle body and fuel injection cleaning will restore lost performance.
A good tune up will also give you back some lost power. Check to see when the last time a major service was performed. If it's over 50,000 miles, then your due for a major service. Plugs, Fuel filter, PCV valve, Air filter and a good throttle body and fuel injection cleaning will restore lost performance.
#11
[QUOTE=njmaxseltd]You should have changed the temp sensor first and reset the ECU to see if the KS code goes away. If the temp sensor (and ECU) can't determine the engine operating temperature then your car cannot possibly run correctly. That should have been the first thing changed to get the engine running correctly.
QUOTE]
ohhh i see, but my KS was bad anyways... i remember how the before from the other max looked and this one looked just like it. all crack and stuff. i wanted to do all this stuff today, but i think stores are going ot be close . i know how change the filter, plugs, clean TB, fuel injectors(with those things you add when the tank is empty?), but PCV valve? and do i clean fuel filter or replace it? Last time before i changed and reset ECU i had the following codes:
9-8 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
1-3 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
3-4 Knock Sensor
is it just me or my first 2 codes are the same thing? anywhere i can buy those or that sensor? and how to replace it? i can't thank you guys enough for all the help you guys have provided me now and n the past. i will defenetly donate to the .org once i dont have to spend anymore $ and finding what's wrong with my baby .. anyways thank you for your time..
P.
QUOTE]
ohhh i see, but my KS was bad anyways... i remember how the before from the other max looked and this one looked just like it. all crack and stuff. i wanted to do all this stuff today, but i think stores are going ot be close . i know how change the filter, plugs, clean TB, fuel injectors(with those things you add when the tank is empty?), but PCV valve? and do i clean fuel filter or replace it? Last time before i changed and reset ECU i had the following codes:
9-8 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
1-3 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
3-4 Knock Sensor
is it just me or my first 2 codes are the same thing? anywhere i can buy those or that sensor? and how to replace it? i can't thank you guys enough for all the help you guys have provided me now and n the past. i will defenetly donate to the .org once i dont have to spend anymore $ and finding what's wrong with my baby .. anyways thank you for your time..
P.
#12
0103
OBD-2 Diagnostic Trouble Codes are always four digits. Your DTC "13" is actually "0103", and it points to the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. The factory service manual says this DTC is set when the ECTS signal has an excessively high or low voltage. It suggests testing the ECTS and also the associated electric connector and wiring harness.
On the 4th Generation Maxima engine the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is located in the water outlet tube close to the engine end of the upper radiator hose. There are two sensors in that area. The one nearest the hose is for the dashboard temperature gauge. The ECTS, the one you're interested in, is right next to the the gauge sending unit. There is a good picture of these sensors in the Haynes manual on page 3-7.
With the engine cold, disconnect the ECTS and measure its resistance. Reconnect the ECTS, start the engine, run it until fully warmed up. Stop the engine, and repeat the resistance measurement. The "warm" reading should be a much lower value than the "cold" reading.
The specs for the ECTS are:
Engine coolant temperature 68F, ECTS resistance 2.1 - 2.9 Kohms
Engine coolant temperature 194F, ECTS resistance 0.24 - 0.26 Kohms
(Roughly a factor of ten difference.)
Read the HowTo's or FAQ's for how to replace it.
OBD-2 Diagnostic Trouble Codes are always four digits. Your DTC "13" is actually "0103", and it points to the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. The factory service manual says this DTC is set when the ECTS signal has an excessively high or low voltage. It suggests testing the ECTS and also the associated electric connector and wiring harness.
On the 4th Generation Maxima engine the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is located in the water outlet tube close to the engine end of the upper radiator hose. There are two sensors in that area. The one nearest the hose is for the dashboard temperature gauge. The ECTS, the one you're interested in, is right next to the the gauge sending unit. There is a good picture of these sensors in the Haynes manual on page 3-7.
With the engine cold, disconnect the ECTS and measure its resistance. Reconnect the ECTS, start the engine, run it until fully warmed up. Stop the engine, and repeat the resistance measurement. The "warm" reading should be a much lower value than the "cold" reading.
The specs for the ECTS are:
Engine coolant temperature 68F, ECTS resistance 2.1 - 2.9 Kohms
Engine coolant temperature 194F, ECTS resistance 0.24 - 0.26 Kohms
(Roughly a factor of ten difference.)
Read the HowTo's or FAQ's for how to replace it.
#15
Originally Posted by kevlo911
0103
OBD-2 Diagnostic Trouble Codes are always four digits. Your DTC "13" is actually "0103", and it points to the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. The factory service manual says this DTC is set when the ECTS signal has an excessively high or low voltage. It suggests testing the ECTS and also the associated electric connector and wiring harness.
On the 4th Generation Maxima engine the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is located in the water outlet tube close to the engine end of the upper radiator hose. There are two sensors in that area. The one nearest the hose is for the dashboard temperature gauge. The ECTS, the one you're interested in, is right next to the the gauge sending unit. There is a good picture of these sensors in the Haynes manual on page 3-7.
With the engine cold, disconnect the ECTS and measure its resistance. Reconnect the ECTS, start the engine, run it until fully warmed up. Stop the engine, and repeat the resistance measurement. The "warm" reading should be a much lower value than the "cold" reading.
The specs for the ECTS are:
Engine coolant temperature 68F, ECTS resistance 2.1 - 2.9 Kohms
Engine coolant temperature 194F, ECTS resistance 0.24 - 0.26 Kohms
(Roughly a factor of ten difference.).
OBD-2 Diagnostic Trouble Codes are always four digits. Your DTC "13" is actually "0103", and it points to the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. The factory service manual says this DTC is set when the ECTS signal has an excessively high or low voltage. It suggests testing the ECTS and also the associated electric connector and wiring harness.
On the 4th Generation Maxima engine the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is located in the water outlet tube close to the engine end of the upper radiator hose. There are two sensors in that area. The one nearest the hose is for the dashboard temperature gauge. The ECTS, the one you're interested in, is right next to the the gauge sending unit. There is a good picture of these sensors in the Haynes manual on page 3-7.
With the engine cold, disconnect the ECTS and measure its resistance. Reconnect the ECTS, start the engine, run it until fully warmed up. Stop the engine, and repeat the resistance measurement. The "warm" reading should be a much lower value than the "cold" reading.
The specs for the ECTS are:
Engine coolant temperature 68F, ECTS resistance 2.1 - 2.9 Kohms
Engine coolant temperature 194F, ECTS resistance 0.24 - 0.26 Kohms
(Roughly a factor of ten difference.).
#16
Could this be something as simple as a clogged converter? Symptoms sound that way..... car revs ok in 1st, 2nd (decent) and in higher gears won't pull.
My .01 cause it probably aint worth .02.
Does your car get hotter (engine temp) on the highway as opposed to cruising around town?
My .01 cause it probably aint worth .02.
Does your car get hotter (engine temp) on the highway as opposed to cruising around town?
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