spoiler brake light
09-17-2004, 02:22 PM
#1
spoiler brake light
My girfriend's LED light on her spoiler is not working. I checked the fuse and its fine. I know its not the LEDs since i dont think all of them will go out at the same time? Anyone know what needs to be fixed/Replaced?
09-18-2004, 01:42 PM
#6
Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 87
I replaced my brake light with a clear one and i noticed i did not work sometimes.I found one of the harness frome the 3rd brake light was corroded.I cut the harness of and spliced the wires togather.You have to remove the cover of the trunklid to get to it.
09-18-2004, 07:29 PM
#8
Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: San Ramon, CA
Posts: 71
Does anyone know the type of resistor to buy (i.e. ohms), I got the red cover off the
brake light, but no one seems to know which I should use. Come on all you LED savy
people, let's here what the experienced have to say!
brake light, but no one seems to know which I should use. Come on all you LED savy
people, let's here what the experienced have to say!
09-19-2004, 07:11 AM
#9
the resistor value is marked on the resistor, its the colored bands. look up a color chart and find out. I bet radio shack has them, heck you can probably compard the colors at the store.
09-21-2004, 12:47 PM
#10
Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: San Ramon, CA
Posts: 71
So I got the brake light assembly apart and took it to an electrician to look at.
I was surprised that all of the resistors on mine tested okay, and the diode
that is the first thing after the positive wire was too. So he started to check
out the rest of the LED board. He bypassed the wiring harnes and applied
power to the board itself, but the lights remained the same dim illumination.
The fact that they still lit up, according to the electrician and his testing,
proved that the resistors were okay. But what stummped him was that no
matter what he did, the lights remained dim. So he did some kind of
calculations and came to the conclusion that the system within this brake
light was applying ~ 33ma to an LED that normally needs only ~25 and that's
just the way Nissan designed it. They overdrive the LED to get it bright.
The LEDs are evenly dim across the board so he just came to the conclusion
that they are at their life's expectancy. Have anyone else seen LEDs get dim?
BTW what is the expected life time of a 3V LED?
Anyway, my new light is really bright, brighter than ever.
Just thought I'd share...
I was surprised that all of the resistors on mine tested okay, and the diode
that is the first thing after the positive wire was too. So he started to check
out the rest of the LED board. He bypassed the wiring harnes and applied
power to the board itself, but the lights remained the same dim illumination.
The fact that they still lit up, according to the electrician and his testing,
proved that the resistors were okay. But what stummped him was that no
matter what he did, the lights remained dim. So he did some kind of
calculations and came to the conclusion that the system within this brake
light was applying ~ 33ma to an LED that normally needs only ~25 and that's
just the way Nissan designed it. They overdrive the LED to get it bright.
The LEDs are evenly dim across the board so he just came to the conclusion
that they are at their life's expectancy. Have anyone else seen LEDs get dim?
BTW what is the expected life time of a 3V LED?
Anyway, my new light is really bright, brighter than ever.
Just thought I'd share...
09-21-2004, 03:55 PM
#11
Originally Posted by Shiggy
So I got the brake light assembly apart and took it to an electrician to look at.
I was surprised that all of the resistors on mine tested okay, and the diode
that is the first thing after the positive wire was too. So he started to check
out the rest of the LED board. He bypassed the wiring harnes and applied
power to the board itself, but the lights remained the same dim illumination.
The fact that they still lit up, according to the electrician and his testing,
proved that the resistors were okay. But what stummped him was that no
matter what he did, the lights remained dim. So he did some kind of
calculations and came to the conclusion that the system within this brake
light was applying ~ 33ma to an LED that normally needs only ~25 and that's
just the way Nissan designed it. They overdrive the LED to get it bright.
The LEDs are evenly dim across the board so he just came to the conclusion
that they are at their life's expectancy. Have anyone else seen LEDs get dim?
BTW what is the expected life time of a 3V LED?
Anyway, my new light is really bright, brighter than ever.
Just thought I'd share...
I was surprised that all of the resistors on mine tested okay, and the diode
that is the first thing after the positive wire was too. So he started to check
out the rest of the LED board. He bypassed the wiring harnes and applied
power to the board itself, but the lights remained the same dim illumination.
The fact that they still lit up, according to the electrician and his testing,
proved that the resistors were okay. But what stummped him was that no
matter what he did, the lights remained dim. So he did some kind of
calculations and came to the conclusion that the system within this brake
light was applying ~ 33ma to an LED that normally needs only ~25 and that's
just the way Nissan designed it. They overdrive the LED to get it bright.
The LEDs are evenly dim across the board so he just came to the conclusion
that they are at their life's expectancy. Have anyone else seen LEDs get dim?
BTW what is the expected life time of a 3V LED?
Anyway, my new light is really bright, brighter than ever.
Just thought I'd share...
09-22-2004, 01:35 PM
#12
Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: San Ramon, CA
Posts: 71
I took the light and put it on a big cutting board and ran a NEW (Very important) Xacto blade between the edge of the red lens and the black housing. It takes a while because you need to be careful that you run the blade STRAIGHT. If the blade curves or flexes as you cut, you run the risk of cracking the lens or housing. I used the Xacto with the handle. Eventually you 'll hear a scary cracking as the remaining epoxy gives way. This will happen as you are running the blade along the seal. If you did it right, the LEDs will wiggle out.
I can tell you now, do not use any pliers to grip the assembly in an attempt to pull it out. If you did it right and remained patient, the lens will come off. This is definately not a job to rush!
Also, if you shine a light into the lens, you can see where there is more epoxy to cut through. BTW, BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE RAZOR! USE DELIBERATE, CONTROLED CUTS!
Good luck!
I can tell you now, do not use any pliers to grip the assembly in an attempt to pull it out. If you did it right and remained patient, the lens will come off. This is definately not a job to rush!
Also, if you shine a light into the lens, you can see where there is more epoxy to cut through. BTW, BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE RAZOR! USE DELIBERATE, CONTROLED CUTS!
Good luck!
09-22-2004, 05:52 PM
#15
Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: San Ramon, CA
Posts: 71
I'm not sure which epoxy to use yet, but your local auto parts shop should be able to
recommend something strong. If you have good clamps or thicker rubberbands, that
should give you enough pressure to hold it together overnight.
Don't forget to test it BEFORE you glue it back together!
recommend something strong. If you have good clamps or thicker rubberbands, that
should give you enough pressure to hold it together overnight.
Don't forget to test it BEFORE you glue it back together!
09-22-2004, 08:50 PM
#16
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 37
The resistor in my 96 is a 280ohm 1/4 watt from radio shack. However, I just jumped it with a jumper wire to make it a little brighter. I figured if it blows any of them I'll just get a new unit from here http://www.spoilerlights.com/index.shtml
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