Ok the symptoms of my car are;
1. It will idle anywhere between 800-1100rpms
2. Sometimes it will go to 1200rpm and then drop and stall, sometime takes me as long as 5min to get it to start back up
3. Sometimes when i'm driving and foot's on throttle, the car will jerk back and forth and if you let off the gas it will drop and stall

I've already replaced TPS and cleaned throttle body.

Could these problems be b/c my throttle cables have some slack in them?
I'm Really really really sick of this, i'm starting to hate my max cuz of it

 

Check vaccum loose, spark plugs, and transmission fluid...if you haven't change like 100000 mile already.....My max like that a month a go...but after transmission flush, TB cleanning, ICAI clean, fuel injector cleaning, change spark plugs....its fine now...car run good...

 

isn't there a danger to doing a tranny flush, as fgor the rest i've done all of that in the past month

 

coolant temperature sensor maybe.

 

my buddy's max does the same thing... haven't been able to find the problem yet - no codes set in the ECU... we've already done the following - but it still does the same thing.

1. plugs
2. air filter
3. fuel filter
4. pcv valve
5. replaced IACV valve
6. cleaned throttle body
7. run injector cleaner through it (2 bottles of techron)
8. replaced ECTS

The dealer has had it 3-4 times, each time they plug their consult tool to it, make it stall but then give up since the tool doesn't detect any sensor failures - so they don't know... I've checked the vacuum hoses for leaks - haven't actually checked the vacuum - maybe I need to do that....

 

what bout the idle speed solenoid? Does anyone know the symptoms of it? It's something that won't show up on obd

 

Thats part of the IACV - we replaced his with a brand new one... no luck.

 

how many miles does he have?

 

somewhere around 90k

 

well atleast it's not a problem with wear, i got 168k

What are some symptoms of a coolant temp sensor?

 

yes IAC = IACV

pcv - positive crankcase ventilation valve
ects - engine coolant temperature sensor
iacv - idle air control valve

get a haynes manual for pics/location of the parts.

 

i'm no expert..but a havethe same problem, and the guys here told me to check the MAF sensor (Massive Air Flow Sensor). you can pull your self the cel code (read the stickies) or bye a used maf sensor and changed and see if it gonna work your problem. i did that to my car and stalling was gone.
hope this helps

 

ohm out your ignition coils. they cause the hesistation(jerk back and forth)

 

But will they cause stalling and hard or no start, e.g. crank-start-die, crank-start-die over and over for 5 minutes?

 

dude, just do it see what happens.

 

whats the ohm range for the coil packs?

 

I'll do that - I wasn't trying to be a harda**, I just wanted to be sure that the symptoms were known... its my friends car - so I probably won't get to it until this weekend or next week... appreciate the help.

 

yes i appreciate all the help, after class tonight it's get started checking some of that

Also, i need to know where the coils are and what ohm they should be at

thx.

Would this have anything to do with a bad IAT sensor?

 

bump........

 

ok so delt with the electrical problem i was having and so i could finally check my cell... turns out most of you were right...max is having quite a few problems, but no worries, i've almost replaced or cleaned everything now so by tonight she should be running great!


NJMODI- have your friend check his maf and coolant sensor (mine are both bad) i put the maf in, went for a spin, and so far everything seems to feel better!

 

I already replaced his ECTS for him... the MAF is next - but first I'm going to check the coil packs.

 

i'd like to know how that turns out just incase those problems are currently dormant

 

Maf. . .maf . . .maf

 

Knowing my luck it will end up being the MAF - after all the sh*t I've already replaced for him - damn no CEL makes the problem less obvious... sometimes it is fine for 3-4 months and then all of a sudden it stalls 5-6 times over a few miles... what what?.. I'll keep you guys posted on the coil checks...

 

ok, the maf didn't fix it, gonna put the coolant sensor in tomorrow(yawn) also i'm gonna check my coils tomorrow, if it my coils someone said to use mitsubishi, where would be the best place to look for these?

 

check your MAF wiring and connector. I'm 90% sure its MAF related.
1)MAF 2)Camshaft sensor 3)Crankshaft sensor.
Considering you have done all regular maintenance.

 

might still be coils, find out after class today

 

Might be coolant temp sensor

 

ok, so i went and took out my hanes manual and under "95 and later models" it says it's not applicable, so does anyone know what kind of current i should be checking for?
i know i'm suppose to measure in ohms but i don't know how much is suppose to be there. I need this info asap, thx.

 

geez man, i posted about this like a week ago and only got like 15 replies. my car was doing the same exact thing. i just replaced my hoses and my mid-pipe, and everything is good. well...at least for now.

 

already replaced the hoses, see no point in replacing my midpipe, but seriously, DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT OHM MY COILS SHOULD BE AT IF THEIR GOOD? I HAVE A VOLTMETER AND I NEED TO KNOW WHAT OHMS MAKE THE COIL GOOD AND WHAT OHMS MAKE THE COIL BAD

any help would be greatly appreciated

 

1 is the number you want. my bad ones were giving me odd numbers like 1500, 1655,1322 etc.

 

should be around 1 for good and 0 for bad

 

k gonna check it after engine cools (replacing cts as well)