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knoking noise while turning

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Old Dec 27, 2004 | 01:30 PM
  #1  
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knoking noise while turning

when i turn my wheels i hear a very annoying knoking noise.
i thought it would go away after i changed my CV joints but it never did.
any clue?
Old Dec 27, 2004 | 01:36 PM
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Do you get the sound when the car is NOT moving and you turn the steering wheel?

If you get a sort of knocking/clunking like that, it's probably the strut bearings. The parts are only $20 each, but you have to disassemble the front suspension to change them.
Old Dec 27, 2004 | 01:40 PM
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yes you are right i get this noise when i am not moving or when i am pulling out from a spot.
i have some time on my hands for the holidays, so do you or any one have the process of the disassembling with pictures?
because i know it will cost me fortunes for some one to drop it.
Old Dec 27, 2004 | 01:42 PM
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i have the same sound. A sort of clunk while turning, if i dont fix it, its not going to hurt anything right? I probably will eventually just not very soon.
Old Dec 27, 2004 | 01:56 PM
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my mechanic when i went to him he knew i was into taking stuff apart off the car so he didn't tell me what it was exactly, but he told me it would't really hurt.
but i would still want to do it. it annoys the living **** out of me
Old Dec 27, 2004 | 02:03 PM
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Mine just started doing this same thing. It's not very loud and the knock isn't like metal on metal.. just kind of a hollow sounding. It goes like knock, knock, knock, knock whenever I'm turing the wheels off center, and does it a little more if I'm moving. Going straight it's fine. It litterally started over night. I'll let it go until spring when I replace all of the struts. I'm going to check the tie rod ends and such next week when I do the routine maintenance on the car.
Old Dec 27, 2004 | 02:41 PM
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i would want to do it
if any one has any pictures for it or anything else to help with please repley
thanks guys
Old Dec 27, 2004 | 02:49 PM
  #8  
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hey guys it might be your axle or maybe you just have to replace the boot of your car, which is like a plastic cover, when its broken it loses its grease and make a knocking sound when turning. If it doesnt get fixed soon, you could end up spending more money.
Old Dec 27, 2004 | 03:36 PM
  #9  
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i think i am the master of this problem. after my drifting crash in the snow i effed up my right front wheel. 2 days later i replaced the control arm and 2 front struts and i still get this knocking nosie that limits my turning capabilities (this rules out the struts being bad)

tomorrow i am taking it to maximum tuning to get the axle changed. I was told this problem has somthing to do with "final drive" and that my axle isnt letting the right wheel spin when i give it gas. Also i do not here this noise when the clutch is in or if i take a turn in nutral. This in fact makes it obvious that the drive shaft or axle is the problem. when i take it in tomorrow i will post back and let you know if its the axle that was making this noise. Mine is VERY loud and happens somtimes even when the wheel isnt turned. If its not the axle its the spindle or bearing. but i will let you know.

i am getiing the axle replaced for 80 bucks plus 60 for labor. hopfully jeff at maximum does a good job!
Old Dec 27, 2004 | 04:11 PM
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i don't think my problem has to do with the final drive since i get the noise is always on regardless if i am on gear or not.
so i think it is the struts bearing.
also my right wheel gives me the feel that there is something loose in the suspension whenever i am pulling in or out from my drive way.
i had this problem before but in a 92 accord and it was the struts bearing also.
but thanks again and please come back if any one has a clue.
Old Dec 27, 2004 | 04:19 PM
  #11  
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My problem is not with the half shafts as it makes the noise if I turn the wheels back and forth while stopped. It's either the steering rack, a ball joint or the strut bearings. Perhaps 'knock' isn't the best word as I know what a knocking half shaft sounds like and this isn't it. It's kind of like someone is under the car, with a rubber mallet tapping the control arm as I turn the wheel. I looked, but didn't see anyone under there.
Old Dec 27, 2004 | 04:31 PM
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Just thought this might help. The notorious bearing that can make a God awful amount of racket is the small grey cap object in the middle of the assembly.

Old Dec 27, 2004 | 04:46 PM
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thank you very much I30ds you helped a lot actually. now at least i a know what i am looking at.
did you take paictures by the way of the installation while you did it ?
and if you did please post it
and if you can't i can giev you my e-mail if you can send there that would be great too.

thanks a lot dude.
Old Dec 27, 2004 | 05:33 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Reeko98
thank you very much I30ds you helped a lot actually. now at least i a know what i am looking at.
did you take paictures by the way of the installation while you did it ?
and if you did please post it
and if you can't i can giev you my e-mail if you can send there that would be great too.

thanks a lot dude.
The pic is from when I did my entire suspension. Tokico Illumina struts CE 1.5'' lowering springs, and new bearings, bushing, rubbers, bumpers, and boots, the whole thing. I did not take to many pictures of pre-installation, most were post.

If you are interested in doing this your self, you WILL need a vice, spring compressor, and basic tools. With all the right hardware, the avererage man can do this no problem. I recommend reading the write up in the shop talk section of the main page of this site, as it is pretty good.

Another option is to remove the strut assembly itself, and take it to a shop and have them replace the bad beqaring, it can save you a lot.

Here are some other pics...

Spring being compressed






To remove the strut assembly, remove the tree nuts in the engine bay that hold the unit in place. Next, remove the two bolts that hold the bottom of the strut unit in place (you can see one of them in the picture above). After that the whole unit can be removed from the car. Next, you MUST compress the spring. If you fail to do this correctly DEATH could result. After the spring is compressed, use a vice to hold the unit in place to remove the center strut insulator cap nut. After that the whole thing can be taken a part, and thing can be replaced and cleaned. This really is a simple job, but it is time consuming.
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