Injen Intake....
If you want answers to those questions then you haven't heard the pros and cons......... TRY READING THE FORUM FIRST! 
good? sure
performance? no intake is going to make noticeable performance gains
read my sig? scroll back 2 or 3 pages to read the other 12 injen/intake threads

good? sure
performance? no intake is going to make noticeable performance gains

read my sig? scroll back 2 or 3 pages to read the other 12 injen/intake threads
Originally Posted by 2k2kev
If you want answers to those questions then you haven't heard the pros and cons......... TRY READING THE FORUM FIRST! 
good? sure
performance? no intake is going to make noticeable performance gains
read my sig? scroll back 2 or 3 pages to read the other 12 injen/intake threads

good? sure
performance? no intake is going to make noticeable performance gains

read my sig? scroll back 2 or 3 pages to read the other 12 injen/intake threads

Originally Posted by n2o_matt
my hai droped me .4 in the 1/4 :shrug:
Did you ever think there might have been something else involved?
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Get Place Racing cold air intake, they are cheaper, nice sound, Injen is not a true cold air intake. An other good option is the Jim Wolf pop charger, dont get injen, it is way too expensive, place racing and jim wolf are under 150 bucks.
Injen = ~140degree temps...great location behind the radiator. Even with a heatshield you will get the higher temps. You also run the highest chance of injesting water into your engine with the Injen.
Even a cone filter behind the battery gets better temps.
Even a cone filter behind the battery gets better temps.
Originally Posted by MrEous
Injen = ~140degree temps...great location behind the radiator. Even with a heatshield you will get the higher temps. You also run the highest chance of injesting water into your engine with the Injen.
Even a cone filter behind the battery gets better temps.
Even a cone filter behind the battery gets better temps.
Explain to me how, if injen is taking in 140* air, I can go for a hard drive and get out and put my hand directly on the tube and not have it feel hot.
Explain to me how air is taking a 180* turn to get in the injen filter, because it's NOT BEHIND THE RADIATOR FAN
.... so somehow, while I'm moving forward, you're saying air is coming in through the radiator, being redirected AWAY FROM WHERE MY INJEN FILTER SITS by the black plastic shroud behind the radiator...... 
Go away.
oh yeah, you have to drive through at least 14" of water to submerge the end of the tube, so anyone driving through that much water *should* get a blown engine.
Originally Posted by 2k2kev
Explain to me how the temps are lower further up in the engine bay where there is less air circulation and more heat is trapped.
Explain to me how, if injen is taking in 140* air, I can go for a hard drive and get out and put my hand directly on the tube and not have it feel hot.
Explain to me how air is taking a 180* turn to get in the injen filter, because it's NOT BEHIND THE RADIATOR FAN
.... so somehow, while I'm moving forward, you're saying air is coming in through the radiator, being redirected AWAY FROM WHERE MY INJEN FILTER SITS by the black plastic shroud behind the radiator...... 
Go away.
oh yeah, you have to drive through at least 14" of water to submerge the end of the tube, so anyone driving through that much water *should* get a blown engine.
Explain to me how, if injen is taking in 140* air, I can go for a hard drive and get out and put my hand directly on the tube and not have it feel hot.
Explain to me how air is taking a 180* turn to get in the injen filter, because it's NOT BEHIND THE RADIATOR FAN
.... so somehow, while I'm moving forward, you're saying air is coming in through the radiator, being redirected AWAY FROM WHERE MY INJEN FILTER SITS by the black plastic shroud behind the radiator...... 
Go away.
oh yeah, you have to drive through at least 14" of water to submerge the end of the tube, so anyone driving through that much water *should* get a blown engine.
Lets just say that every person I've herd that has an injen loves it including me.
Originally Posted by optimus310
Don't even waste you time trying to defend the Injen. This is Maxima.org, and the hack air box is the best intake ever.
Lets just say that every person I've herd that has an injen loves it including me.
Lets just say that every person I've herd that has an injen loves it including me.
) and I know place racing, berk, franken, and the e-bay knockoffs don't do those things either. I also know injen costs more than those, that's why I bought mine used

edit: oh yeah, and about the hacked airbox... would you buy a used car that someone cut holes in? I know I wouldn't. The hole in the airbox wouldn't bother me but the fact that someone was willing to take a saw to the airbox would be a huge red flag in my head that this person probably did something else that I wouldn't want to own later on.
Originally Posted by 2k2kev
Explain to me how the temps are lower further up in the engine bay where there is less air circulation and more heat is trapped.
Explain to me how, if injen is taking in 140* air, I can go for a hard drive and get out and put my hand directly on the tube and not have it feel hot.
Explain to me how air is taking a 180* turn to get in the injen filter, because it's NOT BEHIND THE RADIATOR FAN
.... so somehow, while I'm moving forward, you're saying air is coming in through the radiator, being redirected AWAY FROM WHERE MY INJEN FILTER SITS by the black plastic shroud behind the radiator...... 
Go away.
oh yeah, you have to drive through at least 14" of water to submerge the end of the tube, so anyone driving through that much water *should* get a blown engine.
Explain to me how, if injen is taking in 140* air, I can go for a hard drive and get out and put my hand directly on the tube and not have it feel hot.
Explain to me how air is taking a 180* turn to get in the injen filter, because it's NOT BEHIND THE RADIATOR FAN
.... so somehow, while I'm moving forward, you're saying air is coming in through the radiator, being redirected AWAY FROM WHERE MY INJEN FILTER SITS by the black plastic shroud behind the radiator...... 
Go away.
oh yeah, you have to drive through at least 14" of water to submerge the end of the tube, so anyone driving through that much water *should* get a blown engine.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ighlight=injen
Sorry I said 140...I meant 130 which is still damn hot at idle when a CAI is supposed to be helping the engine. At idle the cone filter is the same temp but when cruising/WOT the temp of the WAI is actually 20-30 degrees cooler.
Originally Posted by 2k2kev
oh yeah, you have to drive through at least 14" of water to submerge the end of the tube, so anyone driving through that much water *should* get a blown engine.
Originally Posted by MrEous
Read this bit of info and admit you were wrong...
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ighlight=injen
Sorry I said 140...I meant 130 which is still damn hot at idle when a CAI is supposed to be helping the engine. At idle the cone filter is the same temp but when cruising/WOT the temp of the WAI is actually 20-30 degrees cooler.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ighlight=injen
Sorry I said 140...I meant 130 which is still damn hot at idle when a CAI is supposed to be helping the engine. At idle the cone filter is the same temp but when cruising/WOT the temp of the WAI is actually 20-30 degrees cooler.

How about you read this threa then admit you are wrong about the benefits of *any* intake.
http://forums.s2ki.com/forums/index....owtopic=204172 (most interesting reading is on page 2)
<cliff's>
Pipe length affects the resonance of the pipe, a longer pipe having a lower resonant frequency. Hence longer pipes resonate, and produce additional torque, and lower engine speeds. In theory, a shorter pipe produces more horsepower, because it produces an increase in torque at a higher RPM. In practice, peak power is obtained when the intake is tuned to the speed at which peak HP is produced. That and the thread above say the length of the tube really doesn't matter as much as how well that length was tested and tuned to the engine. A short tube might be complete crap and a long tube might make your engine crank, but change the length of either tube a few inches and you change the resonance and ruin everything.
Then read this thread and admit "ram air" is a myth and doesn't do anything besides sell intakes and cars labeled "ram air".
http://www.vetteguru.com/ramair/
You wanted to argue the fact that you thought the Injen was far superior in pulling in COLD AIR. Now you are changing the argument to pipe lengths and optimal hp.
Can you make up your mind?
It doesn't matter WHICH intake anyone gets if they are looking into getting better 1/4mile times...since all intakes are within ~.5 tenths of each other and ~.5mph as well.
If they are a highway driver then a cai is not necessarily the best way to go since the length of the pipe takes away power from the highend.
Midrange to low-range would be CAI like PR or Injen.
...and I never said a thing about 'Ram Air'.
Can you make up your mind?
It doesn't matter WHICH intake anyone gets if they are looking into getting better 1/4mile times...since all intakes are within ~.5 tenths of each other and ~.5mph as well.
If they are a highway driver then a cai is not necessarily the best way to go since the length of the pipe takes away power from the highend.
Midrange to low-range would be CAI like PR or Injen.
...and I never said a thing about 'Ram Air'.
Originally Posted by MrEous
You wanted to argue the fact...
is "better" but the only criteria you're using is cold air. I'm saying cold/cool/warm air doesn't matter nearly as much as having an intake that's tuned to the specific hp range of your car....... so I'm getting back to my original argument in post #2: performance? no intake is going to make noticeable performance gains

also, ram air was all over that other thread so I assumed because you believed everything else in that thread you also believed ram air was real.
Uh-oh......now the intake-god is on you like bug spray on bugs!
*edit*
I think Cliff's comment basically means that the design intended by the manufacturer (Nissan engineers) is probably the best design for the engine. It's just a matter of filter element that would yield some type of improvement. Being that Nissan even put a snorkel to direct cooler air from the outside indicates that they know how cold air increases performance. So changing your intake, no matter what type it is, is just can potentially "ruin everthing" that the engineers have so carefully designed and tuned. The sound somehow feels people into thinking they are going faster. Why do you think there's a lot of Civic's with noisey exhausts?
Just my 2 cent.
*edit*
I think Cliff's comment basically means that the design intended by the manufacturer (Nissan engineers) is probably the best design for the engine. It's just a matter of filter element that would yield some type of improvement. Being that Nissan even put a snorkel to direct cooler air from the outside indicates that they know how cold air increases performance. So changing your intake, no matter what type it is, is just can potentially "ruin everthing" that the engineers have so carefully designed and tuned. The sound somehow feels people into thinking they are going faster. Why do you think there's a lot of Civic's with noisey exhausts?
Just my 2 cent.
Originally Posted by MrEous
Injen = ~140degree temps...great location behind the radiator. Even with a heatshield you will get the higher temps. You also run the highest chance of injesting water into your engine with the Injen.
Even a cone filter behind the battery gets better temps.
Even a cone filter behind the battery gets better temps.
No...I'm just anti-Injen due to the design and how its sold as a cold air intake when data suggests otherwise. People pay upwards of $200 for something that gives just as much gains as a cone filter. A cone filter + adapter would run about 10% the cost of an Injen.
That's all I was saying. You're exactly right...no intake besides f/i would give any significant gains. 5hp only adds up to maybe a 5-hundredths of a better time in the 1/4. It's almost laughable how many will flock to the pricey intakes just because they either look nice or how the great '5-8hp increase' marketing scheme works.
That's all I was saying. You're exactly right...no intake besides f/i would give any significant gains. 5hp only adds up to maybe a 5-hundredths of a better time in the 1/4. It's almost laughable how many will flock to the pricey intakes just because they either look nice or how the great '5-8hp increase' marketing scheme works.
What's more laughable is that people get into heated arguments about it, over 5-8hp (if that) increase. No pun intended to you of course. I have a pop-charger intake myself. And before I was going for the PR w/o the midpipe, but I've read about the pro's and con's about it and I am not willing to shell out more money for the trade-off (loss of high end for increase on low end). So I'm just going back to stock setup to get some low-end power back. However, I'm gonna cut a 3" hole under the lower half of the box and into the wheel hump. Then run a short plastic pipe thru them. This pipe will divert the same cool air found by the PR setup (within the space inside the driver side fender well cover) w/o the risks of getting water into the intake. Then I can use a K&N panel filter and be done with it. Of course, this is an idea in the initial phase. I have to look inside the fender well cover and see that flow of air isn't restricted in any way.
Originally Posted by MrEous
It's almost laughable how many will flock to the pricey intakes just because they either look nice or how the great '5-8hp increase' marketing scheme works.
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