TonyGotSkilz

iTrader: (6)

Ok so lately in the past 3 days i've noticed that sometimes when i'm sittin at a light and my car is not in gear (5 speed) my rpms will drop from the normal idle of 900 (for my car) down to like 500 instantly and pop right back up to 900. The motion is very quick and jerky on the tach when it does this, and it only happens every once in awhile, and only when i'm not in gear. It hasn't thrown any codes and it hasn't effect performance at all. Once i'm moving or the car is in gear the problem doesn't arise. What does this sound like. Keep in mind i've cleaned my throttle body, Have a 2 week old optima red top battery, and only thing odd on my car is that i've done the A/C bypass, where i'm running a belt only from my crank pulley to my alternator pulley. What might cause this?

thekenone

could be a tps goning bad. i know when its bad it will soot a code. i had the same symptons and then today the light pops and its the tps.

BigLou93SE

iTrader: (10)

That's what I'm expecting my car to have wrong. You can adjust your idle to the normal 650...

TonyGotSkilz

iTrader: (6)

i don't mind the idle being at 900 cause i have a 5 speed and it makes it way less likely to stall and i don't have to give it gas right away as i'm letting the clutch out. But today the problem got worse (after posting of course) Now it happens more often at almost every stoplight and if i don't give it gas when its happening it stalls. This is gey i swear every time i fix something something else breaks within a weeks span. I guess i'll look out for a tps warning, and i'll check mine as soon as i can. Thanx

I'm getting a bike in like a week, and i think the max is going on the shelf for awhile once i do. I can't stand fixing stuff every week as much as i love her geez its getting ridiculous i've spend like 2.5k in the past 2 months on it, and only 1k of that was mods thats a bad ratio

jackiss2888

iTrader: (3)

well, i dunno if it help, my dads TL and our boat (honda) both had that same problem and it it ended up being a completely bad cpu. both were replaced after on the comp, they were not repairable, but it only happened in idle and only every so often. however, the honda boat engine (4 stroke, fuel injected) did it much more, pretty much a civic up on its side.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

I'm feeling the same thing with my car, I thought it might have been the fuel filter.

Does you car vibrate a little bit more vigorously than normal? I feel a vibrating feel, and my rpms drop from around 650 to 500 or 400 and then jump back up, does it with ac on or off, glad TPS was listed, gotta get a multimeter and check that too.

Stuntin' 101

i had a similar problem with my 96, although it was an automatic. if i sat at a light, in gear, with my foot on the brake, i could feel what can i only describe as a bump, or thud. wouldnt really do it when i would first start the car, but would once it warmed up. it threw no codes, and progressivly got worse to the point where i felt it as i was driving.. it was a bad coil pack, which is a known problem for our cars. the replacments nissan makes are a different design, and when nissan recieves a car with a bad coil pack, they typically replace all 6, not just the one bad one, and hit you with a $600 bill.. the reason it doesnt throw off a code is because the cylinder still fires, but misfires, or archs, therefore the computer doesnt detect a problem.. i would suggest driving the car, see if it gets worse. i choose to just buy all 6 from a junkyard motor for 100 bucks.. reasons was becuase, the front 3 and the back 3 packs are different and each one cost about 100 anyway, so even if u just bought one, and kept changin it into different cylnders to see if it went away, you can only do it to half of them. then if you bought the wrong one, and u dont need it, you cant return it..

ManualMaxima

iTrader: (10)

yes mine did this and it was the TPS. i fixed it and no more problems

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

have a part number for it? or grabbed from junkyard/member selling?

konak85

iTrader: (10)

I had a similar situation(automatic). Oddly, I reset my ECU like two or three times and a few days later it went away. Try it.

blackmax_kid

clean TB/IACV if you havent

TonyGotSkilz

iTrader: (6)

Funny u said that cause i checked my codes and i got a crankshaft position code, an egr code or something like that (0302) and the rear heated o2 sensor code that i've had since i put in my y-pipe. I just decided to try resetting the ecu and sure enough i drove it for about 45 minutes yesterday with no codes coming back on and no stuttering problem at all. So i guess i'm just going to wait a few more days and look out for the problem coming back. If it doesn't then i'll just be a happy camper.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

ecu has to run its cycle after being reset so you wouldnt get a cell back till around 200 miles later after ecu has ran its cycle.