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Popping while turning - only when it is cold though

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Old 02-16-2005, 08:18 AM
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Popping while turning - only when it is cold though

I had been getting some popping sounds coming from what sounded like my front right tire, so I had two new CV joints put in (Read: Joints and Boots, not just boots.) The noise went away for a week or two, but since then it has slowly been coming back. I took it back to the dealer that installed it, and they drove it around and never heard the noise. Any ideas? Or should I just take it back to them again (its worse now then when they tested it).

On a side note, when I installed my new exhaust, I damaged the rear 02 sensor's threads, so rather than buy a new one, I just zip-tied it up, and plugged the hole in the exhaust. Well, one of the zip ties came off, and it dragged along the ground for quite some time, end result: constant CEL. I purchased an o2 simulator off of ebay (tried building one, but it didn't work quite right) which worked fine for a few days, but now it throws a CEL about every 200 miles or so. When I pull my ECU codes I'm now getting a rear 02, and also a front left o2 code. Could it somehow be related? Or is the front o2 sensor probably dead?
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Old 02-16-2005, 09:03 AM
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When do you get these popping noises? It could be your ball joints...I had a left front ball joint replaced about two years ago. Before that, it would pop on turns...then it graduated to popping under heavy braking...eventually it started popping even when the transmission shifted (I have an an automatic, so we're not talking about rock hard shifts). I'd have your ball joints checked out asap.

As for your O2 sensor...did you damage the male threads on the sensor itself or the female threads on the exhaust pipe? If you just damaged the sensor itself then just buy another one (yeah another $100, sucks) but if it's the pipe you may be able to re-tap the threads or drill and tap a new hole on the other side of the pipe. That's definetly less fun then getting a new sensor, which you're going to have to do anyway if you dragged it along the ground.

Good luck!
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Old 02-16-2005, 09:28 AM
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where can i buy the balljoints?
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Old 02-16-2005, 09:28 AM
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Ball joints ehh? I'll have to have those checked, thanks for the tip!

Yeah, the sensor is most assuredly dead (it dragged for 2k+), ground off a good chunk of it, I'll post pictures later if I get around to it. As far as a I know the threads in the pipe are fine, I guess I might have to spend the $ for a new sensor.
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Old 02-16-2005, 09:54 AM
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Have them look at control-arm bushings as well. I had that problem on my 94 with the popping noise when turning.
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Old 02-16-2005, 11:10 AM
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I have the same noise with mine...I get a popping noise whenever i turn the steering wheel, or when the the weight of the front end shifts i.e. hard acceleration, quick braking. I definitely will use the dealer as a last resort, but also dont want to spend money on parts that arent broke.
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Old 02-16-2005, 11:33 AM
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popping when you turn the wheel......could very well be the strut mount and bearing

i've had these symptoms now for a while but the some comes and goes, and completely goes away when my car is fully warm.

and like someone said, if you put your car up on a jack and raise/lower it alot then you're at risk of damaging those parts

basically when spring rolls around i'll find out if it truely is mounts/bearing thats making this noise, b/c i'd hate to have to get new axles
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Old 02-16-2005, 11:42 AM
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Update: Called my local dealer, and they don't sell just the ball joint, only the full control mount, $188.xx a pop. Going to call Courtesy Nissan and probably Advance Auto Parts/Pep Boys too. Tonight I'll jack it up, and see if can I move my tire (indicating ball joints.)

Here is a pretty good thread on ball joints: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hreadid=128155


passEMonTHErite: just the bushings themselves, not the whole control arm (and thereby the ball joints)?
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Old 02-16-2005, 11:46 AM
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I wouldn't buy any parts until you are sure you know what the problem is.

I'd try putting the car up in the driveway and checking to see if anything is loose or if anything moves if you pull/push on the tire or hub. I also had bushings replaced when I had the ball joint done, so they also might be contributing to the problem as passemontherite pointed out.

Of course, this doesn't necessarily mean a thing. When the ball joint broke on my parents' Sable we pulled the wheel off and still couldn't get anything to budge. If you're really unsure I'd get it checked out by someone you can trust.

A friend of mine had a ball joint fail while he was driving his '91 Integra LS. The tire turned and rammed into the wheel well, throwing him into a slide and doing damage to the fender. He fixed the ball joint, got a new tire, had it aligned, and the car is still running. He's lucky he didn't get in an acident.
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Old 02-16-2005, 12:24 PM
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Called up Autozone $28.99 a pop for the ball joints, not in stock anywhere (warehouse out and all). Called Advance Auto Parts, $24.99 a pop, in stock. Going to pick them up after work.
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Old 02-16-2005, 12:29 PM
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Chickan, do you have any info on replacing just the ball joint? i just looked through my chilton manual and it stated for 95 and later model maximas, you cant just replace the balljoint. Maybe I am reading it wrong, so let me know what info you have, because for 25 bucks I will take my a** to autozone right now and get a new balljoint.
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Old 02-16-2005, 12:44 PM
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According to Nissan no, you can't just replace the ball joint, as it is part of the control arm. However, http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=342295 says that the ball joint can be pressed out, and a new one pressed in (ZeroSource00), so I figure its worth a try.
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Old 02-16-2005, 12:53 PM
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Hmmm ok. I might have to break down and just buy the control arm..I dont have access to a press, so it might be worth it to just buy the control arm, and a set of ES bushings, and take it from there.
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