Any bolt-ons left? Have I maxed it out?
#1
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Santa Clara, CA 95054
Posts: 972
Any bolt-ons left? Have I maxed it out?
Have I maxed out the Max in the performance category? ( For a track setup - Autocross/HPDE)
I have asked this question before, but Im always looking for new/good info from the org-
Ive done (or have scheduled) the following:
MEVI (! Finally !)
JWT ECU
Stillen B-Pipe
Stillen Y-pipe
Stillen Muffler
Stillen Front Strut Tower Brace
Stillen Rear Strut Tower Brace
Stillen Rear Sway Bar
5 lb Aluminum Flywheel
ClutchNet Kevlar clutch disk
Stainless Steel Brake lines
Hawk HP+ Brake pads front
Metal Matrix Rear brake pads
Eibach Springs
Brembo Bianchi Slotted-Cross Drilled rotors
Koni Yellow Adjustable Shocks
Rota Slipstream Rims 15x6.5 (12 lbs)
Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulley
Warpspeed Metallic Substrate Hi-Flow Cat
Negative camber bolts in front struts (Eibach kit from TireRack)
2.1 / 2.2 degrees negative camber
Custom "RAM" AIR intake (yea yea, debatable)
K+N Air Filtering
NGK Copper plugs
Batcap 800 battery (13 pounds)
Hyper-Grounding Kit
Short Throw Shifter
I guess the other mod that might be interesting is Pathfinder TB? What could I expect given everything else?
Ive already done about as much weight reduction as possible, down to 2900 lbs.
Any suggestions? Im not gonna go Nitrous or Forced induction methinks.
I have asked this question before, but Im always looking for new/good info from the org-
Ive done (or have scheduled) the following:
MEVI (! Finally !)
JWT ECU
Stillen B-Pipe
Stillen Y-pipe
Stillen Muffler
Stillen Front Strut Tower Brace
Stillen Rear Strut Tower Brace
Stillen Rear Sway Bar
5 lb Aluminum Flywheel
ClutchNet Kevlar clutch disk
Stainless Steel Brake lines
Hawk HP+ Brake pads front
Metal Matrix Rear brake pads
Eibach Springs
Brembo Bianchi Slotted-Cross Drilled rotors
Koni Yellow Adjustable Shocks
Rota Slipstream Rims 15x6.5 (12 lbs)
Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulley
Warpspeed Metallic Substrate Hi-Flow Cat
Negative camber bolts in front struts (Eibach kit from TireRack)
2.1 / 2.2 degrees negative camber
Custom "RAM" AIR intake (yea yea, debatable)
K+N Air Filtering
NGK Copper plugs
Batcap 800 battery (13 pounds)
Hyper-Grounding Kit
Short Throw Shifter
I guess the other mod that might be interesting is Pathfinder TB? What could I expect given everything else?
Ive already done about as much weight reduction as possible, down to 2900 lbs.
Any suggestions? Im not gonna go Nitrous or Forced induction methinks.
#2
I will just throw cams out there but IDK if you want to go that route.
LSD if there is a way to get a quaife or some other quality one
motor mounts
A few suspension things like LTB, SFC, polyurethane bushings
LSD if there is a way to get a quaife or some other quality one
motor mounts
A few suspension things like LTB, SFC, polyurethane bushings
#3
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Originally Posted by h2kSPiG
I will just throw cams out there but IDK if you want to go that route.
LSD if there is a way to get a quaife or some other quality one
motor mounts
A few suspension things like LTB, SFC, polyurethane bushings
LSD if there is a way to get a quaife or some other quality one
motor mounts
A few suspension things like LTB, SFC, polyurethane bushings
And how much can I expect to gain with Cams? And is it across the whole RPM band? Im thinking it would be expensive to install too (not gonna do it myself)
Thanks for the suggestions-
#4
look at all those mods ! i think that is going to cover it, if you are sticking with the mevi , you could try extrude honing the mevi. i still may have the usim extrude honed not sure.
i need your rims, hey what about your interior, you could toss out the interior and put in a 20 lbs race seat and harness !!
i need your rims, hey what about your interior, you could toss out the interior and put in a 20 lbs race seat and harness !!
#5
LTB=lower tie bar. Made by blehmco (matt93SE).
SFC=sub-frame connectors. Made by warpspeed.
Cams will add to the upper RPM range. They're about a grand to buy and another grand to put it.
If you're willing to do some custom work then you could put in an '00 VI instead of the mevi and get more lowend and keep the top end.
A brake upgrade I would think would be quite helpful for the kind of racing you do. On the cheaper side of things there are matt93SE's 300zx caliper/2k4 rotor upgrades, jeff92se's 300zx caliper/mustang cobra rotor front only upgrade, and Veequeue's (sp?) 2k4 rotor and caliper front upgrade (only the front has been done, but the rear may very well be doable as well).
SFC=sub-frame connectors. Made by warpspeed.
Cams will add to the upper RPM range. They're about a grand to buy and another grand to put it.
If you're willing to do some custom work then you could put in an '00 VI instead of the mevi and get more lowend and keep the top end.
A brake upgrade I would think would be quite helpful for the kind of racing you do. On the cheaper side of things there are matt93SE's 300zx caliper/2k4 rotor upgrades, jeff92se's 300zx caliper/mustang cobra rotor front only upgrade, and Veequeue's (sp?) 2k4 rotor and caliper front upgrade (only the front has been done, but the rear may very well be doable as well).
#6
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Santa Clara, CA 95054
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I'd like to upgrade the brakes but - I am hooked on my 15" rims (with the corresponding cheaper and often lighter tires) and kind-of-light rotors. So I am just now upgrading to SS brake lines and Hawk HP+ pads for an added bit of stopping power (I hope, anyway).
After trying to do everything to make the max accelerate faster, it would kind of hurt to add unsprung rotational weight -besides, by personal preference I brake early and more moderately, to avoid the worst kind of problems (finding a ditch on the side of the track)
Im not into major work unless the results are phenomenal. So cams, 00vi, and PF TB probably arent in the upgrade path..
Perhaps I should go to urethane bushings next.
Looks like warpspeed is updating their subframe connectors, gotta check back on that. - "easier installation"
More questions to this thread's distinguished participants:
Anyone know if:
A) the LTB stage 1 or 2 - is lightweight?
B) Subframe connectors stage 2 (non-weld application) can be done w/o stage 1?
C) Exhaust Wrap will make for a reduction in sound? (I gotta make it quieter by March 1)
D) Can anyone confirm that PF TB wouldnt be that great a gain - with n/a - even though I should have the MEVI going?
After trying to do everything to make the max accelerate faster, it would kind of hurt to add unsprung rotational weight -besides, by personal preference I brake early and more moderately, to avoid the worst kind of problems (finding a ditch on the side of the track)
Im not into major work unless the results are phenomenal. So cams, 00vi, and PF TB probably arent in the upgrade path..
Perhaps I should go to urethane bushings next.
Looks like warpspeed is updating their subframe connectors, gotta check back on that. - "easier installation"
More questions to this thread's distinguished participants:
Anyone know if:
A) the LTB stage 1 or 2 - is lightweight?
B) Subframe connectors stage 2 (non-weld application) can be done w/o stage 1?
C) Exhaust Wrap will make for a reduction in sound? (I gotta make it quieter by March 1)
D) Can anyone confirm that PF TB wouldnt be that great a gain - with n/a - even though I should have the MEVI going?
#7
LTB is probably 10lbs from looking at it, maybe 15.
No you cant bolt stage 2 on without stage 1. Stage 1 is worth far more in performance than the very slight 20-25lb weight increase.
I don't think anyone has noted anything spectacular from a PF TB without FI.
A turbocharger does attach to the car with bolts!
No you cant bolt stage 2 on without stage 1. Stage 1 is worth far more in performance than the very slight 20-25lb weight increase.
I don't think anyone has noted anything spectacular from a PF TB without FI.
A turbocharger does attach to the car with bolts!
#9
the 00vi would've been a better choice for a track car don't you think? You still have cattman headers available over the y-pipe. Like mentioned before, SFCs from warpspeed and the front brace from Blehmco.
#13
OMG, Spaniard, I know you do a lot of track racing, so if you don't have an LTB and SFCs you *need* to get them. They will make a world of difference. I have the LTB (stage 2) and it's basically like a FSTB except it makes four times the difference, and I've heard nothing but amazing things about the SFCs (which may not yet be available again; Warpspeed was doing a slight redesign). They're only $200ish and the extra weight is....well, worth its weight in gold. Plus the LTB and SFCs are adding weight at the very bottom of your Max which will help lower the center of gravity.
#14
+1 for VQuick's excellent post. I was very suprised to learn that you didn't have those things already. Also, bushings. Also, larger rims may be heavier but they allow you to carry speed in the turn much more. But would all these changes bump you into the next class? Since you want a track car, don't go FI. You'll never be "done" if you do.
#20
Looks like tuning from here. How's your knock sensor and crank/cam angle sensors doing?
Some have reported that the JWT ecu is a little fat on the A/F. Maybe consider a SAFC and do a bit of diy tuning with someone with a wideband. There might be another 5-10hp hidden in there.
Seafoam!
Some have reported that the JWT ecu is a little fat on the A/F. Maybe consider a SAFC and do a bit of diy tuning with someone with a wideband. There might be another 5-10hp hidden in there.
Seafoam!
#24
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Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by Spaniard
Have I maxed out the Max in the performance category? ( For a track setup - Autocross/HPDE)
I have asked this question before, but Im always looking for new/good info from the org-
Ive done (or have scheduled) the following:
MEVI (! Finally !)
JWT ECU
Stillen B-Pipe
Stillen Y-pipe
Stillen Muffler
Stillen Front Strut Tower Brace
Stillen Rear Strut Tower Brace
Stillen Rear Sway Bar
5 lb Aluminum Flywheel
ClutchNet Kevlar clutch disk
Stainless Steel Brake lines
Hawk HP+ Brake pads front
Metal Matrix Rear brake pads
Eibach Springs
Brembo Bianchi Slotted-Cross Drilled rotors
Koni Yellow Adjustable Shocks
Rota Slipstream Rims 15x6.5 (12 lbs)
Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulley
Warpspeed Metallic Substrate Hi-Flow Cat
Negative camber bolts in front struts (Eibach kit from TireRack)
2.1 / 2.2 degrees negative camber
Custom "RAM" AIR intake (yea yea, debatable)
K+N Air Filtering
NGK Copper plugs
Batcap 800 battery (13 pounds)
Hyper-Grounding Kit
Short Throw Shifter
I guess the other mod that might be interesting is Pathfinder TB? What could I expect given everything else?
Ive already done about as much weight reduction as possible, down to 2900 lbs.
Any suggestions? Im not gonna go Nitrous or Forced induction methinks.
I have asked this question before, but Im always looking for new/good info from the org-
Ive done (or have scheduled) the following:
MEVI (! Finally !)
JWT ECU
Stillen B-Pipe
Stillen Y-pipe
Stillen Muffler
Stillen Front Strut Tower Brace
Stillen Rear Strut Tower Brace
Stillen Rear Sway Bar
5 lb Aluminum Flywheel
ClutchNet Kevlar clutch disk
Stainless Steel Brake lines
Hawk HP+ Brake pads front
Metal Matrix Rear brake pads
Eibach Springs
Brembo Bianchi Slotted-Cross Drilled rotors
Koni Yellow Adjustable Shocks
Rota Slipstream Rims 15x6.5 (12 lbs)
Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulley
Warpspeed Metallic Substrate Hi-Flow Cat
Negative camber bolts in front struts (Eibach kit from TireRack)
2.1 / 2.2 degrees negative camber
Custom "RAM" AIR intake (yea yea, debatable)
K+N Air Filtering
NGK Copper plugs
Batcap 800 battery (13 pounds)
Hyper-Grounding Kit
Short Throw Shifter
I guess the other mod that might be interesting is Pathfinder TB? What could I expect given everything else?
Ive already done about as much weight reduction as possible, down to 2900 lbs.
Any suggestions? Im not gonna go Nitrous or Forced induction methinks.
just wondering with all these mods have you dynoed it? and whats your 1/4 times and trap speeds?
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