Hey, it looks like it's time to change out the intake manifold gasket on my 95. Appears to be oozing a little antifreeze on the right hand corner. Can you guys tell me how long of a job that is and any experiences you'd like to share (The DO's and Don'ts)

Thanks in advance
Jim

 

i would like to kno also?

 

can you post a pic of the antifreeze leak?

 

I removed my IM to replace fuel injectors.. With the right tools and understanding, it will probably take an hour to an hour and a half..

Remove battery, air intake, throttle cable, pcv, etc.
Disconnect some sensors, unbolt IM.
Becareful of the EGR gasket.. mine fell and I couldn't find it forever..

Check the haynes manual

 

Hmmm. There aren't any gaskets where coolant can leak from, both on the upper and the lower manifold gasket surfaces. It's not unusual to see an oily residue at the gasket between the upper and lower IM, though.

 

I dont see how the upper intake manifold gasket can do that. It only connects the top part of the manifold to the lower part.... there are no coolant lines there...

 

I haven't pinned it down to the intake but that seems to be where it is. I had done the water pump about 20K miles ago. I started leaking some antifreeze again. I can't really see it flowing, but when I jack the passenger side up, the antifreeze sorta dribbles out behind the oil filter area. I suspected the water pump again, but right above the water pump cover appears a little wet in which I'm thinking it's the intake.

Ant96gle - you say there is no cooling lines in the upper? What's the section right above the water pump cover?

 

Hmmm, why would antifreeze leak out of your plenum?

Only coolant lines that go through it is in the rear that cools the EGR pipe or something, then it goes to the TB.

 

You will not leak antifreeze any where up there.... I installed my mevi less than a month ago, Its very simple Dont do all this extra crap for nothing. Look at your intake manifold very simple job man very simple.

-Remove all intake parts

-Take off the TB plate, and remove the cable wires if you need so, I didnt remove them. (It would be a nice idea to clean up everything while you have it off)

-Look on top of the manifold, Disconnect the PCV valve, Disconnect the vaccume hose in the rear you need WD for this.. Disconnect anything else on top.

-Remove the bolts that hold the manifold on. Start with the front move your way to the back. Note that this is a way to do this!

-In the rear, There are 2 main bolts that hold the manifold and 2 bolts for the EGR. EGR bolts are simple, the other ones might be a killer. Feel for them on each cornor.
Again while the Idle switch is off clean it, EGR off clean it.. Careful with those gaskets.

-LAST thing to do is disconnect those coolant lines in the rear it should be done last!, You can move the manifold around in diff spots to get to them. Coolant will leak but very little.

Then remove the manifold throw some TB cleaner in it and clean it up, clean up the plenum, then look at where this leak is coming from. My best bet is that its DEF not coming from there but you never know....

 

That would be the cylinder head. Maybe you have a blown head gasket.

But the thermostat housing is also right above the water pump cover. Maybe you just need to replace the housing gasket, or even just tighten the radiator hose clamp.

 

I was looking at the Chiltons last night and it looks like by the picture, the lower intake is right above by the water pump cover, but the way you guys make it sound the water jackets are limited in there. I thought of the head gasket too, but I would think the leak would tend to follow the direction of head in which the leak would be more in the front of the car. I checked my hose and I believe it was dry. I'll have to look at the thermostat. I'll have some time this weekend to get in there as long as we get a break from these cold fronts up here in CT.

Thanks for the input... I'll let you guys know what I find.

 

Even though its a long tedious job, depending on where its at you may have to take off the timing chain cover...

 

why would u need to remove the battery? just leave it in there, thats what i did, as for an hour to an hour and a half....eh....i would say 2-2.5 hours if your doing it for the first time. Its REALLY hard to get those 3 brackets by the firewall in and out...

 

Looks like it's the water pump again. It only lasted about 20K miles. It was brandy new from Napa. Napa supposed to have quality parts... Hopefully just a fluke...

 

The gasket was only $6.75 from THE DEALER! I also bought a chiltons to use as a guide for $15...rip-off.

The upper intake manifold gasket job isn't terribly hard to do. It took me about 3 hours, but I spent 30 minutes taking the upper EGR pipe bolts off when I didn't need to. (Chiltons manual... ) You only need to lift the manifold up about 2 inches to remove the gasket. Here is what I remember:

- Remove the intake (Black tube the connects to air filter) at the TB and swing out of your way.

- Unplug all the wire harness's that restrict the manifold from lifting up 2-3 inches (IE: The ones with short wires) This includes the frint 3 Injectors, unplug them and swing the harness out of your way. BE SURE TO REMEMBER (OR LABEL) WHERE THE CONNECTORS GO! My camera phone came in handy for this one!

- Remove Throttle cable assembly and pull back towards fire wall out of way.

- Remove anything else that restricts you from lifting the intake up 2-3 inches. Use you judgement on this I am sure I'm forgetting some items....

- Now your ready to remove the front Manifold bolts. To do this you need to remove them in the order they are supposed to be tightened. Standing in front of the car looking at the manifold here is the orderfrom left to right) 2, 3, 4, 1.

- Now in the back of the manifold there is 2 bolts remaining. They are a PAIN IN THE *** to get off becuase you don't have much room for tools/hands. I started them with a ratchet and finished them with a socket and my hand. You may need to push some hoses around to get access, just don't forget to "clip" them back into place when your done.

- You should now be able to lift the manifold from them front, and angle it up enough to remove the old gasket.

- **** Now you need to carefully clean the surface the gasket touch's. DO NOT GET ANY DIRT INTO THE INTAKE/ENGINE DURING THIS STEP! If you need to block the intake tubes with rags do so. The old gasket is rubber and shouldn't leave much behind so this is easy.

- Now carefully place the new gasket in. Make sure it is even/straight all the way around and lower the manifold onto it.

- *** You will need to start the REAR MANIFOLD BRAKET BOLTS FIRST! If you start the fronts the rears will not line up......trust me I did this. Be careful not to move the manifold on the gasket to much it could damage it, or get out of place.

- Now your ready for the front bolts. You will need a torque wrench for this to tighten to spec. THESE MUST BE TIGHTENED IN THE PROPER SEQUENCE AND TO THE PROPER TORQUE.

SEQUENCE (From left to right, facing engine) BOLT: 2, 3, 4 1

NISSAN SPECIFIED TORQUE FOR THESE BOLTS IS 13-16 lbs/ft (I KNOW THIS SEEMS LOW, BUT I EVEN DOUBLE CHECKED WITH THE DEALER. THERE SERVICE MANUAL STATES 13-16 lbs/ft. I TIGHTENED TO 16)

- Reconnect everything and your DONE!! Enjoy



If I forgot anything please feel free to add to this thread! Hope this helps.