Maxamillione

Okay, I been driving my max for a week or two (after it being garaged for a few months) and I'm reminded of the fugg'd up Wheel Bearings that I have not changed yet. I'm gonna try and do it this weekend but before I do I wanted to know:

Are the Front Wheel Bearing Replacement Instructions on Motorvate (95 Max) the same for a 97 Max?

Also, has anyone else attempted to do their own, and if so, how much of a b!tch was it?

I can stand the humming noise and I'm not trying to lose a tire while driving...

Hey - Are there any org. members from Seattle?!

96white

good luck getting an answer, I asked this question 2 weeks ago. Ton of people looked at it, no response.

200KStrong

I tried changing it on the passenger side and it was a *****. After about 3-4 hrs of trying to pop it out we gave up. You definitely need a torch to heat this baby up, of which we didn't have access to at the time.

I took it to a shop and they changed it in about 1/2 hour and charged me around $110. It wasn't worth our time and effort for only $110. My time is more valuable than that. Take it to a shop. Don't waste your time!

kc10fish

iTrader: (1)

dude, you can do it yourself. just pull the crap out and take to a shop and have them press them in. 110$ is way to much....a friend and i did his on his truck, he had the shop press them on and 40$ is what it cost......

1FSTMAX

iTrader: (29)

ive done this a couple times.. not that hard if you have the correct tools, and know what you're doing...

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

Good answer.

kingrukus

iTrader: (41)

Is it true that your wheel can fall off when driving with a bad wheel bearing? This is what the local nissan stealership told one of the local max guys...I have over 40k miles on my bad wheel bearing

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

I suppose if you blithely ignore the horrendous noise of a bearing starting to seize up and then the agonized squealing of the tire after it fully seizes, then yes, eventually the wheel may fall off.

Zack342

iTrader: (89)

what causes a wheel bearing to go bad? I hit a huge pot hole a couple days ago> i do hear humming but i thought it was because of my Bridgestone Blizzak WS-15 snow tires. Is there any way to check if i have a bad wheel bearing.

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

A number of things, such as lack of lubrication, seal failure resulting in dirt in the bearing, heat, excessive steady load. Bearings can take a much higher dynamic load than what they are rated for statically, so hitting pot holes is way down on the list of probable causes of bearing failure.

Since automotive wheel bearings get their lubrication from a limited supply of grease, and are close to the ground, I would say that inadequate lubrication and dirt contamination are the primary causes.

To check for bad bearings, measure the play in the bearing by tilting the wheel back and forth with the car up on jackstands. There should be only the very slightest amount of play, on the order of thousandths of an inch. Rotate the wheel and feel how smooth the bearing turns. The bearing should feel absolutely smooth as it turns. If you detect any grittiness as the bearing turns, you have dirt contamination.

Maxamillione

Well I've tried doing the driver's side and as 200KStrong said "it was a B!tch". I spent about 3 hours on it and the damn 36mm was not moving (Liquid wrench was my next move)...I love doing things myself but if I can't get that nut off then it looks like I'm gonna have to take it to the shop. I'm gonna give it another try this weekend so I'll let y'all know what happens on Monday...

Thanks for the knowledge...

SkoorbMax

No problems. I took my 36 mm nut off last week. Once you have the socket on the nut, and a breaker bar, next move is to go to home depot and buy a 2-3 foot pipe. I DEFY any nut to hold steady against the vast amounts of torque you can apply to it with that. Something Haynes mentioned was to put the spare tire on the car and lower it back down. This allows you to get at the nut, while the wheel is held steady (I did that to tighten them, and had my wife crank on the brakes when I undid them, which also works).

Maxamillione

So, let me get this right, put the spare on and lower it so the wieght of the vehicle holds it in place. Then crank that sonavab!tch until the nut loosens? Is that stable! I'm assuming you'd raise the vehicle once the nut is easy enough to get off. Also, am I gonna have to go through the rest of the steps listed on Motorvate, once I remove that 36?

Damn, I love max but she' a pain in the @ss sometimes.

maximus_96

iTrader: (5)

I had to break the 36mm off when i did my cv joint. i took the wheel off, placed a crow bar inbetween the lugs to hold the rotor steady. then used the 4' handle from my floor jack over a 1/2" breaker bar to bread it lose. it took a bit of effort, but nothing compared to trying to break it lose with a 10" ratchet or something. i got an aircompressor this past weekend which came with tools. hopefully when i do my suspension this spring it should be easier.

JeEvE

iTrader: (10)

I didnt want to start a new thread about this but does anyone know the part numbers for the bearings? I need the passenger side bearing assembly (bearings, inter and outer race), inter and outer grease seal and if possibe, the hub assembly if I decide to avoid having to press in bearings. If anyone has the part numbers, that would be a great help. Thanks.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

bearing assembly (2 bearings & race) 40210-30R06
couldn't find the seal #

memphis_sktr

I have also done it probably about 1k miles ago and I used a press to do it. I only spent about 10 to 20 bucks to rent the garage lift and tools from base and it took me a couple of hours. I would definitely suggest to take it apart yourself and take it to a shop. JMO

JeEvE

iTrader: (10)

DennisMik, thanks for the part numbers. I was having trouble getting them.

Plan is to remove the hub and take it to a machine shop around here, hopefully they will press it in for cheap.

Anyone know the part numbers for the seals?

JeEvE

iTrader: (10)

I found the part numbers for the seal and the hub. Does anyone know if buying the hub will include the bearing and seals?

seal: 4023233P55
front hub: 4020231U10

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

i'm about 95% sure the hub is without seals and bearings.

maxspeed96CT

iTrader: (9)

not that hard to do, hardest part is getting the bearing itself out, you gotta bring it somewere to get pressed out , and the new one needs to be pressed in .