I'm currently replacing my control arms, replacing all 4 CV boots, and changing the clutch.

I'm stuck with the pass. side axle - I have it free from the hub, but I can't get it loose from the transmission. I removed 3 12mm bolts from the bearing housing (to the right of the y-pipe), but that housing doesn't want to come apart. I've seen references saying to use a screwdriver to pry the housing from the bracket, but there is nothing to get it started with.

1) Must I remove the bolts holding the housing bracket to the engine?
2) If so, must the y-pipe come out? Must the y-pipe come out before the transmission?

Dave

 

If you've removed the three bolts then you should be set. My axle was very tough to remove. You have to pry the two pieces that were bolted together apart. I tapped a screwdriver inbetween them. It took a while and it seemed like the pieces were welded together. But it eventually gave. I was careful not to try to drive the screwdriver in too far in any one spot because I was afraid of breaking off a part of the piece that was staying with the vehicle. Start with a small screwdriver, tap it in in a few spots, watch out for weak spots around the bolt holes (never heard of anything breaking but who knows), and work up to slightly larger screwdrivers. It worked for me. Took some time and patience though. It will wok for you.

Any good junkyards for maxima parts in south central PA?

 

Do you have air tools? I remove my bearing from the housing with an air hammer. Just tap a little on the axle part of the assembly not the part that stays on the engine.

A few taps on that and a screwdriver to pry the thing apart should separate it.

 

that bearing was the tough point when i did mine too. i ended up unbolting the bearing from the block and pulling it out with the axle. then i just used some liquid wrench and a rubber hammer and banged it off there, put the bracket back on the car, and then put the new axle in.

 

never ran into that problem. i just pulled on it and it popped out. but yeah try to do what everybody else said. have fun with the boots. i am almost done with mine but cant get teh clamps that hold the boots on. d oyou guys buy new ones or use the old ones?

 

Why change boots when they will bust later causing another couple hours of down time?I used to change the boots but found out it's best to just replace the whole axle.But when it's stuck,just take an extension for your sockets and hammer the axle part of the housing that holds the 3 bolts.Once you break the corrosion and rust,then use the screwdrivers to hammer the gap.

 

Thanks for the tips everyone. I'm going to try hammering on a cold chisel to break the bond of the housing.

I'm changing the boots for a very obvious reason: New axle $400, new boots $60. They aren't cracked thru yet, but don't look like they'll last forever.

Dave

 

The cold chisel trick worked like a charm - I forgot I had one. I knew a screwdriver wasn't going to get it started, the sharp edge of the chisel was definitely a necessity.

Unfortunately, now I'm putting the axle back together and the outer CV is being a motherf**ker. I try centering the ring on the spline and hammering, but so far no dice. I'm laying into this thing HARD with the 5lb deadblow mallet. Whatta PITA - maybe an extra $220 per axle is worth avoiding all this s**t.

 

Are the $400 axle gold plated?Cause I got mine from Napa for I believe $150 after the core.And that axle is lifetime.I've delt with lifetime stuff with Napa like my muffler and they just told me to bring in my rotted out muffler for a new one.These part stores offer lifetime on their parts thinking that you won't go back or keep the receipt.But it pays off at the end.I haven't had problems with Autozone or Napa parts.Check it out sometime and ask what the lifetime covers.