Clutch Job Gone to Hell - using 5th gen clutch and cover!
#41
Originally Posted by DR-Max
Perhaps we should all gather our own findings on the 5th gen clutch's performance and throw in some specifics as to advantages and disadvantages, if any. Then maybe one of us can do a small write up with part #'s. We don't have to include the steps in taking the tranny out and installing the clutch components. By next week, the clutch should be broken in and I can start doing some spirited runs and gather some data that way. I'm curious to see how different my setup will perform because i'm using a 4th gen PP.
#42
What's wrong with the one in your car?? Is it badly worn or are you going for aftermarket fw?
Originally Posted by i30ds
It will be several more weeks before I put mine in as I am STILL waiting for my FUCCING FLYWHEEL to show up... They finally told me it should ship next week... I originally ordered that on 4-15!!
#45
dynapak brand name, same as fenco i think.. shrug, it looks ok. Has lifetime warranty.
Cost $144.95 plus tax, comes with pressure plate, clutch, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and alignment tool
Just put it all together and seems to shift and run fine. Took almost all day to do the work. Started at 10 am, stopped for lunch, supper, got done around 8ish tonight. I have a decked out garage with air tools, 2 full took chests of tools, etc, so we just took our time.
Slag
Cost $144.95 plus tax, comes with pressure plate, clutch, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and alignment tool
Just put it all together and seems to shift and run fine. Took almost all day to do the work. Started at 10 am, stopped for lunch, supper, got done around 8ish tonight. I have a decked out garage with air tools, 2 full took chests of tools, etc, so we just took our time.
Slag
#49
Originally Posted by nismos14
Cool, does it grab better than stock? What are you're initial likes/ dislikes about it?
I dont have a basis for comparison really. I bought loe p's 96 max the other day knowing i would have to change the clutch out because his slipped a bit.
As for biting better, well, good question. I've put probably all of 6 miles on it as of this morning so its not broken in yet. I'll drive it around today and see what it feels like. I cant make it slip now to save my life, so i guess its biting well.
The clutch pedal is slightly softer which I like so my leg doesnt get tired in a lot of town driving.
I did not have to take any of the exhaust off and probably didnt have to take the center support off but did because the instructions said to.
#50
Originally Posted by sexytom976
How long does it take to change a clutch anyhow
Expect a good 6 hour job if you are taking your time and want to do it right. If the car is on a lift somewhere and you can work on it, shave 2 hours off of that time. Its much harder when you are lying on your back removing stuff as opposed to standing under the car and taking stuff off.
Simply taking the axles out takes a good hour to do both sides.
#51
Slag, did you also change the rear main seal??? It's always a good thing to do that especially because the dust seal (on the bottom of the main seal), tends to crack after all these years useage.
It's been over around 200 miles since I've driven on the new 5th gen clutch. The clutch is settling in nicely, bite is definitely more. And I don't know if its just my foot but it seems that the pedal had gotten just a tid bit harder. I know that the very first time I drove it after the clutch job, the pedal was really soft! Now it feels a bit sporty if you know what I mean. Yesterday, I wasn't even trying to peel off from a light and my tires chirped at take-off. I feel the torque back instead of back then when all that engine torque is wasted from a slipping clutch. Plus fuel consumption is suffering because of it.
It's been over around 200 miles since I've driven on the new 5th gen clutch. The clutch is settling in nicely, bite is definitely more. And I don't know if its just my foot but it seems that the pedal had gotten just a tid bit harder. I know that the very first time I drove it after the clutch job, the pedal was really soft! Now it feels a bit sporty if you know what I mean. Yesterday, I wasn't even trying to peel off from a light and my tires chirped at take-off. I feel the torque back instead of back then when all that engine torque is wasted from a slipping clutch. Plus fuel consumption is suffering because of it.
#52
So the clutch is heavier than the 4th gen? This is a great thread and should be added to the stickies if it hasn't been already. I will be using the 5th gen clutch when I convert my car to a 5spd.
#53
It seems that way. I will have my buddy, who helped me with the clutch job and also test drove my car after, drive it again to see if he concurrs with me on this. I am loving the way the car drives now. I remember that with the old clutch, driving at high speed, when I stomp on the accelerator, feels as though the transfer of power from the transmission is a held back. Now the car accelerates w/o delay and the pull is constant.
Originally Posted by THT
So the clutch is heavier than the 4th gen? This is a great thread and should be added to the stickies if it hasn't been already. I will be using the 5th gen clutch when I convert my car to a 5spd.
#54
Originally Posted by DR-Max
Slag, did you also change the rear main seal??? It's always a good thing to do that especially because the dust seal (on the bottom of the main seal), tends to crack after all these years useage.
It's been over around 200 miles since I've driven on the new 5th gen clutch. The clutch is settling in nicely, bite is definitely more. And I don't know if its just my foot but it seems that the pedal had gotten just a tid bit harder. I know that the very first time I drove it after the clutch job, the pedal was really soft! Now it feels a bit sporty if you know what I mean. Yesterday, I wasn't even trying to peel off from a light and my tires chirped at take-off. I feel the torque back instead of back then when all that engine torque is wasted from a slipping clutch. Plus fuel consumption is suffering because of it.
It's been over around 200 miles since I've driven on the new 5th gen clutch. The clutch is settling in nicely, bite is definitely more. And I don't know if its just my foot but it seems that the pedal had gotten just a tid bit harder. I know that the very first time I drove it after the clutch job, the pedal was really soft! Now it feels a bit sporty if you know what I mean. Yesterday, I wasn't even trying to peel off from a light and my tires chirped at take-off. I feel the torque back instead of back then when all that engine torque is wasted from a slipping clutch. Plus fuel consumption is suffering because of it.
#55
Originally Posted by slag
Thought about it. Decided against it. Mine doesnt leak and there is no indication that it will anytime soon. Looking forward to breaking in my clutch this week as I drive to work (80 miles round trip) each day.
#56
Daaaamn.... I used to drive that same distance to work 5 years ago. Did that for about 5 years and went thru 2 cars during that time. I was putting in roughly around 80-90k miles a year on the car. It felt like I was working just to pay my bills and my car when it breaks down.
Originally Posted by slag
Thought about it. Decided against it. Mine doesnt leak and there is no indication that it will anytime soon. Looking forward to breaking in my clutch this week as I drive to work (80 miles round trip) each day.
#58
None of those should affect the clutch. If you are planning on boosting, then you should go with an aftermarket stage I or II.
Originally Posted by KDog125
what if i have headers, and cold air, and i wanna put more mods in like new flywheel, pulley, and soon exhaust...will 5th gen clutch still be ok??
#59
Originally Posted by DR-Max
What's wrong with the one in your car?? Is it badly worn or are you going for aftermarket fw?
#60
Originally Posted by DR-Max
None of those should affect the clutch. If you are planning on boosting, then you should go with an aftermarket stage I or II.
#61
Wow..that is really light! I have read some bad stories about aftermarket flywheel with stage I or II clutches. But never ran across anyone that did what you are going to do. Let us know how it goes.
I'm about to put in a y-pipe within a week or so which will be good timing because I want to change the shifter mount as well. My shifting has been notchy for a while now and I read that the rubber part of this mount cracks in time.
I'm about to put in a y-pipe within a week or so which will be good timing because I want to change the shifter mount as well. My shifting has been notchy for a while now and I read that the rubber part of this mount cracks in time.
Originally Posted by i30ds
I am going aftermarket fidanza flywheel. The thing only weighs 12 lbs!!!
#62
Originally Posted by DR-Max
Wow..that is really light! I have read some bad stories about aftermarket flywheel with stage I or II clutches. But never ran across anyone that did what you are going to do. Let us know how it goes.
I'm about to put in a y-pipe within a week or so which will be good timing because I want to change the shifter mount as well. My shifting has been notchy for a while now and I read that the rubber part of this mount cracks in time.
I'm about to put in a y-pipe within a week or so which will be good timing because I want to change the shifter mount as well. My shifting has been notchy for a while now and I read that the rubber part of this mount cracks in time.
#64
Originally Posted by DR-Max
I'm thinking about a short throw shifter as well. Not sure which one to get.
#65
Just an update...
500 miles after the 5th gen clutch/4th gen pressure plate/stock flywheel install, my car never slipped during and after break-in period. The clutch grabs a lot harder now. No slipping whatsoever.
500 miles after the 5th gen clutch/4th gen pressure plate/stock flywheel install, my car never slipped during and after break-in period. The clutch grabs a lot harder now. No slipping whatsoever.
#66
Correct 5th gen clutch part #'s
Since more people are interested in this, I would like to post the correct current part #'s which has been previously covered already. I just wanted to compile the part #'s and put them together in one post.
Here they are:
1. Release bearing - 30502-41U20
2. Clutch Disc (old #)- 30100-2Y904; new #-C0100-6E600
3. Clutch Cover/Pressure Plate - 30210-89F00
You won't need to replace the pilot bushing as it never makes contact with anything that could cause it to wear out. Even the input shaft isn't touching it since it doesn't have a pilot end that can go thru the bushing part.
Your best source is www.PinnacleNissan.com . Ask for Kenny Gomez, he's very familiar with what we are trying to do. He's already had a few orger's order this stuff from him. To ensure that your order has been taken and the correct part#'s have been ordered, call 888-998-9800 ext #2447 after submitting your online order. Make sure you have your order# handy so he can look it up quickly. This should avoid unnecessary mistakes and miscommunications.
Here they are:
1. Release bearing - 30502-41U20
2. Clutch Disc (old #)- 30100-2Y904; new #-C0100-6E600
3. Clutch Cover/Pressure Plate - 30210-89F00
You won't need to replace the pilot bushing as it never makes contact with anything that could cause it to wear out. Even the input shaft isn't touching it since it doesn't have a pilot end that can go thru the bushing part.
Your best source is www.PinnacleNissan.com . Ask for Kenny Gomez, he's very familiar with what we are trying to do. He's already had a few orger's order this stuff from him. To ensure that your order has been taken and the correct part#'s have been ordered, call 888-998-9800 ext #2447 after submitting your online order. Make sure you have your order# handy so he can look it up quickly. This should avoid unnecessary mistakes and miscommunications.
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