crsdsabers

iTrader: (1)

I changed my plugs yesterday (a friend who works for NGK gave me some iridium ixs) and discovered some oil in the plug well nearest the pass side. I know about the o-ring, but need some help w/ the intake removal. Does anyone have a step by step?

By the way, 98 GLE w/ 174K and still going strong.


Thanks,

crsdsabers

Chickan

iTrader: (12)

here is a decent thread, has some good info at the bottom, though no writeup, still looking for one myself.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....=1#post4043981

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

I am in the middle of this process right now. I had the same problem you did. Although I'm a DIYer typically, not knowing your skill level, I think I should have just left it to the dealer. They quoted me $350 including the parts. Thats really not that bad, as you'll discover when you start the job.

A lot of guys around here pull the plenum all the time - for me it was the first time, and it wasn't "hard" persay, but very time consuming and somewhat intimidating. The key is to work slowly and carefully - you don't want to shear bolts or damage parts along the way.

I would highly recommend OEM replacement gaskets and spark plug tubes (what you are calling o-rings). I tried with some aftermarket gaskets but didn't like the fit/quality compared to the OEM ones that I removed. Right now my car is sitting in the garage with the plenum, valve cover, IACV, TB all pulled... my parts should be here Friday, so I'll reassemble on Saturday.

I have pics, but as I mentioned in the other thread Chickan linked, its hard to do a write-up because there are just so many hoses/bolts/brackets to undo. The Haynes writeup is accurate - except that they don't mention the coolant hoses on the plenum and a few hoses on the TB.

Good luck - feel free to ask me any questions - since its all fresh in my mind from just having done this last weekend.

crsdsabers

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys, this will at least get me started in my decision to do it myself or pay the pros.

Again, Thanks,

crsdsabers

rubypearlman

I don't know about pros. My car was hesitant and took it to the dealer cause I thought they would surely know what the problem was and fix it right. They charged me $750 to replace the EGR valve and clean the engine and hoses. The next day it was doing the same thing, so I replaced the spark plugs and it is fine. Although the left and right rear plugs had a little oil on them.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

It's not hard to do, its more tedious if anything. Just pay attention to what you are removing and make sure you remember how it goes back. With the IM, there are two hidden bolts behind it which holds it down onto the rear valve cover. It could be tricky to get to it but you will need a short open/closed wrench, I forgot what mm it is. Using the regular length wrench will be hard to fit in there since the IM is very close to the firewall. While you are in there, I would go ahead and replace the rear valve cover gasket. As old as our cars are, gaskets usually start deteriorating. It's good insurance to do that since you only want to do this labor once. When putting the cover back on, you need to torque down those bolts in a specified pattern. It might be in that thread someone posted above. If not, it should be in the stickies.

I paid a mechanic to do this to my car before only to realize a few months later that he did a lousy job at it. The rear valve cover gasket was leaking initially and had disappeared after the work was done. A few months later, the leak came back and was worse than before. I decided to do it myself this time around. The leak is totally gone and is never coming back. You can't trust anyone else to work on your car, its best to learn it yourself and know that you will put 110% into your car instead of paying someone a lot of money and trusting that individual with your car which is a big gamble now these days. Not all dealers do a good job as well, most of them will rape you on parts and labor and still manage to do a bang-up job.

al71469

I just did mine last month. It is easy but tedious. You got three areas that are a pain. I highly recommend you get the Haynes manual.

1. The 2 bolts in the back holding the IM in place. You can't see them and have to go by feel. I couldn't get access with a 3/8 ratchet and socket. I had to buy a 1/4 socket and use a small 1/4 ratchet. To gain better access, remove the bolts that hold the water hoses on the fire wall and push the hoses out of the way.

2. The 2 bolts that hold the EGR guide tube to the IM. You can't see the bolts. Also, there is a gasket there. Use some hi temp gasket sealant material to hold the gasket in (let it cure for a day) place during re-install.

3. There are 2 hoses attached to the rear of the IM. You can get to one of them and the other .. you have to flip the IM up toward the fire wall to gain access to the hose.

Once you get the IM out... everything else is easy.

matty

iTrader: (54)

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d801f4ca2.jsp