wadecarlson

could you guys recomend a good stall for a 98 maxima? i dont want to lose everyday drivability but when i stomp on it i want to burn!

thanks in advance!


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Headers
y-pipe
stillen intake
17 01 maxima rims

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

what is stall?
and how come i never hear of people replacing torque converters on auto trannys

wadecarlson

it kinda acts like a clutch for an auto trans. really help 0-60 times. i just want a mild one that i can drive everyday but still get the perfomance i want. since the auto maximas are known for weak low end torque this should help give it that boost that it needs. ive heard with the converter and a shift kit is some of your best 0-60 mods.

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

how much you think all this is? i want some boost for my auto too...

icedout

http://www.specriteconverters.com/street_series.asp

wadecarlson

is this converter still drivable in everyday applications?

wadecarlson

once i install the conveter ill take it to the track and give you guys some numbers. i dont even know what to expect - i have intake, headers, y-pipe and the converter soon. i would think i could get in the 14s but dont really know.

konak85

iTrader: (10)

It should really help off the line. i think stock is around 1500rpm. 2300rpm would be nice.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I still belive, through all my YEARS of research, and conclusion drawing, etc... I have ultimately decided to go the 5 speed swap route. Through all the testimonials, with the exception of a select few, everyone that has done it are completely happy and more than satisfied with it and say it's the best "mod" they've ever done. And most of these folks are quite heavily modded. Another thing I've heard/read is that even with all the work/time/money into the automatic, they still aren't as satisfied as they could be with it, if it indeed was a manual. Believe me, those who can search, look up all the torque converter, VB mod, etc (relative to auto tranny performance) threads and I can guarantee I've posted in 90-95% of them because I was obviously interested. But now looking at the price for rebuilding my dying auto for performance, it sadly outweighs putting a manual in there. We have to consider ourselves lucky in that it still can be done with minimal custom work for installation. Not to mention the very aggressive gearing, and obvious higher efficiency in getting more power to the ground.

Maybe I'm in more of a position to talk right now because I have a second car. But installing TC's will also cause downtime .. Maybe not as much, but it will cost. Also, there's the "bulletproof" route. Costly, but worth it? Unless you're going to be adding a large power adder, (N2O, F/I) this would seem.

Again, to each his own, but I'm sticking to my time put into research, pricing etc.. and I've found my remedy ... Still feel considering I could have not been so compulsive and waited for one out of the box .. but oh well, does anyone have any napkins to clean the slipped milk and those who are crying over it .. not me ..

wadecarlson

i dont want a 5 speed - i drive in traffic and that will never be an option but thanks for the reply.

i just need to know if anyone has installed the torque converter and if it is still drivabe in stop and go traffic.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

Well here is another perspective.

I have had 3 maxima's all auto and have raced all 3. There is no way I would swap for a 5 speed. Granted a 14 or 15 sec Maxima is not as fast auto but as soon as you pump up the power I believe the auto is king.

I have ran a 12.1 in both my 3.0 and 3.5 L with minimal HP. ie the 3.0 with a 150 shot was approx 350 HP and the same with my 3.5 with a 100 shot approx 350 HP.

I haven't seen any 5 or 6 speed come close to those times with the same HP.

My 3.0 4th Gen ran a 14.6 N/A and a 13.1 with a 35 shot, try that with a 5 speed, never happen.

PS There is no such thing as a factory freak, or if there is I have had 3. (I don't think so) Anything I have done is repeatable by anyone. Also the engines and transmissions in all my cars have been bone stock, only intake and exhaust mods.

texasluva

Wade, im in the same boat. I have an auto daily driver and I want that initial pop from 0-60. I have full exhaust and an intake and i feel Im missing that initial pop. I want to keep the auto but I don't want to ruin my tranny from bad shifting. I have heard that these tranny mods extend the life of the tranny. My Max only has 50k for the miles. What is the difference between a VB and a TC. Please enlighten me and let me know which is the best mod. THANKS

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

But jime you're a pretty hardcore racer. Not sure what you folks are interested in, but if high horsepower and low ETs are your goal... then stay with auto, but as far as just keeping it subtle, I'd still go with 5 speed swap.

An aftermarket high stall torque converter lets your stall(take off speed) rise higher before the car starts moving, hence allowing for a pseudo manual clutch behavior, and is noticed through the launch. I've never heard of a TC giving better or higher hp numbers by being less parasitic.

The VB mod quickens shifts ( I have one on my 03). For much cheaper, the same effect maybe noticed with a DR mod, (ask jime about this). Some people report faster times, some do not.

FYI, I don't believe jime has an aftermarket TC on his car ... and also holds the fastest automatic N/A A33 VQ35 times to date. All he has for drivetrain is DR mod and smaller dia." slicks (if considering optimized gearing) isn;t tht correct jime?

wadecarlson

Jime,

what size converter do you have? what would you recomend for street use (daily driver)?


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texasluva,

as soon as i fine the right one ill let you know.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

My engine and trans are stock the only mods are intake and exhaust. I also disconnect the drop resistor.

I can pull a 1.9x 60' N/A and a 1.75 with a 50 shot of spray. Until someone can improve upon those times with an aftermarket converter I am sticking with the stock setup.

wadecarlson

what does the drop resistor do and how do you disconnect it? is it bad for the trans?

lilaclucymaxima

iTrader: (16)

FAQ'S.... and then HOW TO'S...

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

What is the drop resistor mod and how do I do it?

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The drop resistor mod disconnects the dropping resistor in the transmission control circuit. This forces the transmission to run a maximum line pressure. This makes the shifts VERY hard. Even an otherwise stock car will chirp the tires on the 1-2 shift with this mod.

The downside is that part-throttle shifts are very jerky. The solution is to wire a Wide Open Throttle (WOT) switch that disconnects the resistor only at full throttle.

Here's Jime's writeup:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jime
Ok here is where the drop resistor is located. Front side of the drivers side strut tower.


There is a connector with two wires attached to the resistor. The electrical drawing of the drop resistor looks like this. You must cut one of the wires, doesn't matter which one but cut it at least 2 or 3 inches from the connector so you have room to strip and connect to it.

Strip a small section on either end of the wire you just cut and attach a wire to each end by soldering or use a connector. Run the two wires to a switch. Either a WOT micro switch (preferably) as per the picture or a manual switch.

I have a small L bracket I made that attaches it to the intake manifold bolt closest to the throttle body.

Keep adjusting the switch position until the throttle hits it just before or when it hits the WOT position. It is imperative that this switch be a Normally Closed (NC) switch so the circuit is always made until you hit WOT at which point it opens and effectively disconnects the drop resistor from the circuit.
You can do the same thing by running the two wires to the cabin and hooking to manual switch (5 amp rating or higher) but I much prefer the WOT switch because you never have to worry about turning it on or off. You have enough to think about when racing without another stupid switch to turn on and off.
The micro switch I use is rated at 10 amps and I got it from an applicance shop where it is used in a microwave.
Most switches of this type are Normally Open (NO) and this will NOT work.

I realize these are pretty crude instructions but I am basically a grease monkey these days not a computer nerd.



Discussion thread in the Nitrous Forum:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=285482

Jime

iTrader: (10)

Here we go again. This always starts some controversy.

You can read about it on my website or here.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=285482

Disconecting the DR forces the trans to shift at maximum line pressure so shifts are hard and crisp. It is a WOT mod only and should not be used at part throtle.

Also I might add that with my 2k2 the stock stall speed is 2550-3050 vs the 4th Gen which is 2000-2300. Even with a much higher stall speed I still get faster 60' times by hitting the throttle from an idle vs at max stall rpm.

wadecarlson

cool so i think ill invest in the 2500-3050 stall - i think it will help and shouldnt change drivability if the 2k2 is using it. what do you think?

Jime

iTrader: (10)

If you carefully read what I said you will notice that I do not use the higher stall speed on the 2k2. It accelerates quicker just from idle so the higher stall speed on the 2k2 is really a waste in my opinion.

wadecarlson

i think my car needs it because im not going to run nos and also the 2k2 has a slightly higher gear ratio than mine. i just think the 98 needs a little push in first being n/a without nos. i feel like first gear takes forever to get going - let me know if you have another suggestion that will work better. also in the videos when you are running the 1/2 you are going from dead stop.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

The shorter gear ratios makes up for the taller tire diameter, and is a difference of ~65 rpms (64 to be exact) from 4-5gen if the correct/sotck tire sizes are used +/- 2%

sonicrunch

Thank god a few people on the org know the superiority
of an auto in drag racing!