Spaniard

iTrader: (1)

So far no major issues with stuff getting knocked out. Definite scrapeage most times that the curb has a really large "canal-like" dip when getting on the street, despite going at an angle. It definitley forces a change in driving style re: Speed bumps too.

I took a look at the weapon-R but it was kinda pricey;

Actually the latest that I have heard is that the Place Racing (co-designed by cattman) might be the one to go with.

Also, as someone who is concerned with getting COLD air I would like to know more about the ceramic coating... is it on the inside,outside or both? Pls tell more.

Also -Xugg- I agree with the radiator heat issue - the best I could come up with was insulation wrapping all around that puppy.

1996blackmax

iTrader: (2)

I remember when I had my JWT intake and when I really got on it (WOT) a couple of guys in their fixed up Civics got out of my way. It was pretty funny. I also have a Civic (2000 EX coupe).

WielkiWaac

iTrader: (8)

i dont have it

dr-rjp

iTrader: (4)

This is a fairly new product that is like latex house paint -- you would put it on the outside of your roof or walls if you wanted to keep the inside of your home cooler. I got a pint of it to evaluate. It normally sells for $33/gallon.

Now, since this coating is white in color, people usually paint over it with another color. I tried painting it on the surface of an ABS pipe and it spreads like latex paint, too. When it dried, it was quite chip- and scratch-resistant.

I think it would take three coats to get the best coverage on plastic pipe, but spraying on a primer first might be the way to save a coat.

I've got a digital, hot-wire anemometer on order, and that is what I will use to do my testing. The MAF also contains basically the same thing; i.e., a hot wire that cools down when air passes over it.

Inside the MAF is a temperature-measuring device called a thermistor. The hot wire is kept at the same temperature as the thermistor. When air cools the wire down, more current is added to it to raise the heat level back up to match the thermistor. The ECU uses this current increase, along with air temperature measurements from the intake air temperature sensor (IAT), and barometric readings from the absolute pressure sensor (MAP) to calculate air flow and air density.

If I am not mistaken, the intake air temperature sensor is located inside the air duct ahead of the MAF, and its main purpose is to measure ambient air temperature, and compare that against the temperature readings inside the MAF.

This may be important to know since making mods to the stock box may affect the IAT readings, but not those of the MAF.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

4th. You should really donate $20 and do your own search so we don't see repeat information over and over.

sonicrunch

just bought a manometer

let the testing begin

(and this thread locked)

Novo48

iTrader: (1)

ok..i hacked my airbox and the service engine light came on....plus. when i put it all back on there is a clicking sound coming from the left side of the engine(looking towards the front of the car). help me out. how do i fix the engine light. and what the hell is that clicking sound?

Perryb

can you really tell a noticeable gain if i take like a small pipe and run it from my bumper up to the airbox sort of as another inlet for air. will the sound change and would i feel a difference maybe a 2 in pipe painted black and also if i run it from my bump up should i worry about water or anything else

dr-rjp

iTrader: (4)

Your questions are ones that I plan on testing. A lot has to do with the length of pipe, and to where you hook it.

Water getting in the pipe is always a concern.

konak85

iTrader: (10)

reset your ECU. make sure all connection are properly connected.

dr-rjp

iTrader: (4)

I have a few questions of my own about air box hacks that I plan on testing MOSTLY for the fun of it. Unfortunately, the intolerable heat and humidity have delayed my starting them (over 100 degrees in my garage with the door open), but I am committed to doing them whenever I get a cloudy and cooler weekend day.

I now have the electronic equipment to test air velocity and air density at the entrance point to the throttle body. Greater power or throttle response is possible primarily by increasing air density and to a lesser extent, increasing air velocity.

True cold air intakes are effective in increasing air density by lowering air temperature. I read on Nissan Performance magazine, that a 10 degree drop in intake air will yield a 1 percent increase in HP. What I do not know is whether that HP gain is average brake horsepower or peak wheel horsepower. I'm hoping it is average brake horsepower.

In a different article, testers reported that a ram air effect led to negligible gains.

However, IMHO, there are more important factors than just raw HP gains. For me, better torque and faster throttle response is a bigger factor. When I punch the pedal, I want an instant reaction. If I can improve response time even while keeping HP the same, I'll take it.

For some, ear-candy is a motivating factor; i.e., the aggressive sound of a free-flowing intake can be music to one's ears, even if acceleration remained the same.

On tghe opposite side of the fence, there are a lot of people who treat dyno numbers as if they were taken from a sacred religious text. Some seek them as sort of a goal by themselves.

The bottom line is that there is not one, sole outcome that people want from modding their air intakes. Likewise, keeping the intake totally stock can also be driver preference for many reasons.

Some changes, like changing the sound of one's engine or exhaust may be totally subjective and qualitative in nature -- that is the reason why you do not see many members clamoring for dyno numbers on just mufflers.

Needless to say, there are many quantitative measures that we can collect on any part of the intake and exhuast systems. Whether they translate into what are the goals we seek is another question.

That being said, here are the data that I can collect at various points along the air intake system:

Intake air temperature
Intake air velocity
Intake air pressure
Intake air density
Intake air humidity
Intake air differentials (pressure or vaccum differences between two points)

Here are the data that I can collect by test drives:

Time for 0 - 60ft, 1/8 mile, and 1/4 mile
Time between 0 and 60mph
Time between any two speeds
Average horsepower for different gears

Basically, the plan is to do before-after measurements on each of these data for each suggested mod suggestion or question. Also important is to control for other variables such as differences in ambient temperature, humidity, engine temperature, and time of day.

So, please let me know what you wish to test on my car, keeping in mind that, unless you have a clone of my car, your car's performance will differ from mine...hopefully, your car will do better!