DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

I'm picking up a set of new KYB GR2's tomorrow for $223. I know I'm going to need strut mount bearings so that's gonna have to be ordered from the dealer. I'll also need strut boots since the ones on mine have fallen apart. For this what do you guys recommend?

I read in the stickies that Advanced Auto has the "SB103 for the fronts (95' Mustang) and SB108 95' Miata (SB108) for the rears and should be pretty good for replacements. But I live in So. Cal. and we don't have Advanced Auto here (I believe). I just want something that is more reasonable-priced than the dealer.

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

You can also order the boots from tirerack.com.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

advanced has discontinued selling those sadly. next best bet is go to tirerack.com and buy it from there mustang 95, and miata 95. should total to about $65 2 day ship.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

I will check that out thanks.

Just called the local nissan stealer, and here's their prices:

$42 (each) bearings
$20 (each) front boot
$30 (each) rear boot

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

I know I didn't pay anywhere near that much when I bought OEM boots and bearings. Send Dan Tech an email or PM - look for his thread in the GD forum... He'll be able to get to WAY better prices.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

Yea that price is highway robbery, its more than the price of half of a set of my new struts. I also emailed Pinnacle Nissan, maybe they can beat that price. Thanks again, will do.

MaxxedOut624

iTrader: (2)

Hey Dr-Max tell me how the ride feels when you get them on. Im in the market from aftermarket shocks and Im still undecided.

Super96Max

Yea boots and bump stops are hanius expensive

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

I know I need to get the strut bearings to get rid of that annoying sound I get when turning the steering wheel (different sound from a bad cv joint or rack 'n pinion).

I'm debating whether or not I really need those boots. I don't drive my car thru unpaved roads, and I totally avoid bad roads. Those types of elements would be bad if it gets to the piston rod and inside the inner cylinder as they would wreak havoc inside and cause dampening issues. Has anyone had any problems with their struts faily due to not having protective boots?

MaxxedOut624, I think part of the way a suspension setup feels is depending on how stiff or soft the springs are. I can tell you now that my ride will probably be the same, sorta stiff, becaue I have ground controls. I really wanted to get something else but money is tight right now however, I am definitely going to get new springs in a few months, most likely a set of S-Techs.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

Just picked up a new set of GR2's. I'm getting ready to slap these babies on next week as soon as the strut bearings arrive. The only thing that is left for me to do is to find the best price in strut boots. Checked my local Autozone and they don't have anything but struts.

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

I would definately replace the boots. THe only other thing that you might want to replace is the rubber tube that goes on the bottom of the spring.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

Are you talking about the black thing that goes around the spring coils (see photo):

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

It would be the rubber on the very bottom of the spring, where it sits on the strut seat... that other stuff that is on there is something else that this guy must have added on himself. Looks interesting though. I wonder what it is called and where he got it.

Here it is on mine on the rear.



ANd on the front.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

Ok, I got the front strut boots from Pep Boy's for $15 each. Still can't find cheaper rear ones.

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

Dont forget that pinnicle can beat the dealer list on those rear boots by like 50%...

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

I agree...their price for the strut bearings is $24 each. And I just realized that the front boots I got from Pep Boys are $5 more than Pinnacle's. I'm returning the boots and ordering them from Pinnacle. However, Pinnacle's price on the rear boots are $21 each. I just found this from Summit racing. How good are these guys with their turn around providing that these parts are in stock?

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

DR-Max - the "rubber" part around the top and bottom coils (in i30ds's pics) is called a spring isolater. In your pics, it looks like the previous owner fabricated his own (as I ended up doing) using some rubber hose. I would definitely recommend replacing the isolaters, either with new factory ones, or buying some rubber tubing and doing a similar job as is shown on the springs. If you don't put the isolator on (or make your own) you will get all sorts of groaning/chattering sounds when you go over bumps... (its a common problem).

i30ds

iTrader: (8)

Well, when I ordered my B&M STS from them, which they had in stock, it took only 3 days to get to me. They also sent me a free summit racing baseball cap and a $10 credit off my next purchase since I was a 1st time customer.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

Those guys are really cool. I just placed my order too: strut bearings, and front/rear boots. I should get it in 3 days. I've shopped around and have not found any place that could beat their prices, dealer and independent auto supplies. As soon as I get these, my GR2's are going in.


The guy that has that strut in the photo looks like he used some kind of spiral type wire loom as spring isolators. They are plastic and usually used to bundle computer wires and cables together. I have that in my car now as well.

97SEdriver

iTrader: (3)

DR-Max,
Why are you changing to S-Techs? In your opinion is the ride with the GC's too harsh? I was thinking about picking some up, but I do a bit of auto-x and track days, I was planning on getting some Koni adjustable yellows to go with them.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

Yep, GC's are too stiff for me. S-Techs are nicer but when you go that low, its really hard to keep that stock feel. The drop on my GC's are only at 1.6 and a little more in the back to level out the ride height.

97SEdriver

iTrader: (3)

Thanks,
I guess I don't want the stock feel, plus a guy I know has corner weights, so I could slam it down to nothing before a auto-x or track day, providing I avoid speed bumps.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

Koni yellows and GCs are ideal for auto-x'ing.

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

Anyone has this combination? I know the Eibach's is a tad stiff, just don't know how compared to GC. Is it a bad idea to pair it up with the GR2?