Wills98MaxSE

I'm getting close to 127K on my '98, just recently I noticed a creaking sound as I entered my car, sounded like it came from the front. I did the bounce test from both ends, car seemed a bit bouncy on both front and rear. Assuming these are the original shocks, would I need to replace the noisy fronts, or would I need to replace all 4? and what kind would you suggest?

TrackSmart

iTrader: (1)

Hey man, here's some quick diagnostic tips from my own experience. I've got a 95 with 130,000 miles, so I've heard ALL of the strut noises, ha ha. At least until I finally dropped the car w\ new struts and springs:

If the creaking sound comes when hitting bumps and pot holes on one side of the car or the other, then it is most likely the strut mount on that side that needs replacing ($30 each for the fronts, $5 each for the rears).

If the creaking happens when turning the wheel back and forth, it is likely the strut bearings (grease can dry out over time or debris can enter them.) This gives you a "crunk, crunk, crunk" sound as you turn the wheel b/c the springs wind up until the friction is broken at the ungreased strut bearing.

If you roll down your windows (do this in a parking lot) and make the tightest possible circles (left and then try right) and you hear clicking, well, then it is probably your CV joint. Or possibly the wheel bearing. But CV joint most likely.

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If you are a DIY person and would be doing the work yourself, just change the strut mounts and bearings in the front of the car. Cheap, and it should likely solve the problem.

If you are going to pay someone to do this, well, you might consider changing struts and springs for the heck of it since you'll be paying the same labor whether the old ones go back on or they put the new ones on. Should cost $150 - $200 in labor to change the suspension on all four corners of the car.

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Hopefully that helps. Based on your 2,000+ posts I'm sure you already know what suspension setup you would get if you did decide to make this an upgrade opportunity!

Wills98MaxSE

thanks TrackSmart ... I'll have the CV/Axle area as well as the entire suspension inspected, as my chaotic work schedule will allow. Yeah I've been around the .org for quite a while. I'd like to go a bit firmer than the stock SE, but nothing too bone-jarring. I'm sure most will suggest lowering, but to those who live in/visited the (metro) Detroit area know what condition the roads are here, so that's out of the equation.

pocketrocket

iTrader: (1)

Will,

I'm planning on replacing my worn out shocks and strut mounts later this year as well

Wills98MaxSE

TrackSmart - I was driving in a parking lot and my subdivision earlier today and was hearing a "popping" type noise upon turning the wheel in either direction, is this the CV boot/joints going bad?

PocketRocket - I guess both our cars are getting too old

Chickan

iTrader: (12)

if you hear pop pop pop, that means usually that the cv boot is torn, and debris has gotten inside. Usually you need to replace the cv joint when this happens (whole axel).

TrackSmart

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like the CV joint. Hard to be 100% sure since we aren't there to hear it and b/c there are lots of suspension parts that can cause strange noises. But CV joints is VERY common for our cars. In 130,000 miles my car has both front CV joints changed (TWICE on the driver's side).

Have a mechanic take it for a ride around the block (or around the nearest parking lot). They shouldn't charge you for this. He can confirm the diagnosis and confirm which side it is coming from.

Cheapest way and easiest way is to replace the axle. Remanufactured axles typically run $70-80 for the Autozone/NAPA variety. Or you can spend $150 for a Raxles.com axle. People have said Raxles quality control is far superior. Of course, it costs double, too! I have bought the Autozone variety myself and no problems, but some people say they've had the cheap ones go bad again in less than a year - they will give you another one if it dies within 3-years but you still have to pay for the installation again.

Typical labor charge is about 1 - 1.5 hours. So $70-$110 for the labor.

TrackSmart

iTrader: (1)

Oh yeah, if one your CV boots is torn, you should change the CV joint anyway b/c dirt has been entering the joint and it will only be a matter of time before it fails. Sounds like yours either ripped a long time ago or the joint lost lubrication or went bad on it's own. (All this assuming that it really is your CV joint and not something else).

beefy23b/97

My 97' has 180k and im thinkin bout changin out my suspension soon. what brand would you recommend i go with; Tokico, KYB, or spend money on koni (are they realy worth it)?

TrackSmart

iTrader: (1)

You have lots more choices than that my friend. Use this to search the forums via Yahoo (bookmark it, it will be handy later.):

Forum Search via Yahoo


The key things to ask when upgrading struts and springs are:

1) What is my budget?
2) How harsh or comfortable do I want my ride to be?
3) How much do I want to lower my car (if at all)?

Answer those three questions and maybe people can give you some more specific advice. Some people prefer to keep the soft, stock ride. Others want the absolute best handling at any price. Others still (like me) want something inexpensive but still sportier than stock.

beefy23b/97

So what did you go with?

Wills98MaxSE

I've seen ppl on here go w/ Tokico Illuminas for thier shocks/struts, would this be the general consensus from the 4th gen owners? and where would a good site be to get the tokicos?

also, besides the shocks/cv/axles, what else is common to be replaced at the 127,000 mile mark?

JwaxMax99

iTrader: (14)

Here. Illuminas $434.00 incuding shipping. The upper and lower spring isolators might need replacing. And maybe the strut mounts too. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW

TrackSmart

iTrader: (1)

Ha Ha. I went for really inexpensive springs. Slightly stiffer than Stock SE and with a medium drop (about 1.5 inches).

Struts: KYB GR2 - two of my struts were blown, so I went with these inexpensive stock replacements. About 15% stiffer than stock SE struts. These are not adjustable and are not "sport struts" per se. So you can't use them with super stiff springs. They are $73 each at tirerack.com . Some places sell them for even less. I got them with a group deal.


Springs: If you go with the GR2s you have to pair them with relatively mild springs. Some of your options are H&R, Tein H-techs, and Maxspeed. These all offer a mild drop. H&R are known to have the best ride quality of the bunch (not too harsh). H-techs give a similarly reasonable ride and a really nice even drop. MAxspeeds give a small drop and are the cheapest things you will find. I can recommend the H&R and H-techs without reservation.




ALL THAT SAID: If you spend a little more you can get way better struts. Tokico Illuminas are superior struts. The will cost you about $200 more than the GR2s. Most people that have them say it is worth it. But only you know your budget and what level of performance you are looking for.

As for springs: If you decide you want a more dramatic drop, you can get Tein S-techs. These will drop your car by 2.2 inches. Ride tends to be quite harsh though. And don't do this with cheap struts like the GR2s. You will need something beefer to handle them. Also, you may need a camber kit to get your suspension in alignment due to the big drop; Fjor very good handling springs, but not the best drop, you can get Eibachs. Excellent for cornering and performance and despite the stiffness they are supposed to have reasonable ride quality. I'd pair Eibachs with something better than GR2 struts, but some people have that setup.




And for the ultimate in handling, there are coilover suspension kits. These were never within my budget so you will have to ask others which kits would suit your needs.