how can I tell if my ball joints need to be replaced?
#5
What kinda money is involved in replacing a ball joint??? Im not sure if thats the problem with my car but when I press the brake I hear a clunk sound??? The brakes were replaces along with the rotors about a couple months ago...
#6
if you have lots of miles on your car ( over 100K ) i would advise on replacing balljoints/sway bar and endlink bushings along with LCA bushings and inner tie rods
all those parts are normal tear and wear and should be on everyone's list
especially if you want smooth noise free ride.
balljoints could be replaced for around $60 a pair plus your own labor, just rent the press from Autozone
LCA bushings and inner tie rods are pretty easy to replace , look them up on Ebay
Sway bar bushings and endlinks make huge impact on ride quality.
Nick.
all those parts are normal tear and wear and should be on everyone's list
especially if you want smooth noise free ride.
balljoints could be replaced for around $60 a pair plus your own labor, just rent the press from Autozone
LCA bushings and inner tie rods are pretty easy to replace , look them up on Ebay
Sway bar bushings and endlinks make huge impact on ride quality.
Nick.
#9
That will take care of most of them. The LCA bushings will be included, but the ES ones are better I am sure. It will replace the ball joint. And the sway bar bushings will be 2 minutes extra if you change the LCA.
The Tie rods are somewhat seperate, but should be easy while doing the process.
The Tie rods are somewhat seperate, but should be easy while doing the process.
#10
Forgive me for my ignorance in the following post.
I've been always hearing a loud clunking but thought it was my axle for some reason. Where exactly is the ball joint? I believe this is located on the lower control arm but I'm not sure. I'm going to check the how to's to see if there is a write up. I've had this noise for quite some time but thought it was something else, this would be good for me to do when I change my axle plus put my new suspension on soon.
I've been always hearing a loud clunking but thought it was my axle for some reason. Where exactly is the ball joint? I believe this is located on the lower control arm but I'm not sure. I'm going to check the how to's to see if there is a write up. I've had this noise for quite some time but thought it was something else, this would be good for me to do when I change my axle plus put my new suspension on soon.
#11
Originally Posted by kingrukus
So if I simply replace my entire LCA, it should take care of both the ball joints and other misc bushings?
hey I just found a write up for changing the ball joint.
Originally Posted by autozone
The lower ball joint is not replaceable, if the ball joint is defective the lower control arm or transverse link must be replaced.
http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker...3d801f58ea.jsp
#13
Originally Posted by SPiG
Technically you can press out the ball joint and put in a new one, but Nissan says you have to replace the entire LCA. It was much easier on 3rd gens though.
I was reading the write up for 3rd gen, would be cheaper to press out the ball joint and put in a new one. I'll more than likely just swap out the whole control arm, have all new bushing etc, and safly I might as well do the passenger side also instead of having one side no probs and another side so so, or is that crazy talk.
a write up for control arm changing for those who need it
http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker...3d801f5924.jsp
#14
My mechanic is replacing my ball joints (4th Gen) as we speak or at least he's waiting for the parts, the dealer told him they only sell it with the LCA but he agreed the ball joint can be pressed out and replaced which is waaaay cheaper so I order my ball joints from:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
I guess we'll soon find out if it can be done without purchasing the whole LCA
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
I guess we'll soon find out if it can be done without purchasing the whole LCA
#15
Originally Posted by MAXRB8
My mechanic is replacing my ball joints (4th Gen) as we speak or at least he's waiting for the parts, the dealer told him they only sell it with the LCA but he agreed the ball joint can be pressed out and replaced which is waaaay cheaper so I order my ball joints from:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
I guess we'll soon find out if it can be done without purchasing the whole LCA
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
I guess we'll soon find out if it can be done without purchasing the whole LCA
#16
Originally Posted by MAXRB8
My mechanic is replacing my ball joints (4th Gen) as we speak or at least he's waiting for the parts, the dealer told him they only sell it with the LCA but he agreed the ball joint can be pressed out and replaced which is waaaay cheaper so I order my ball joints from:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
I guess we'll soon find out if it can be done without purchasing the whole LCA
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
I guess we'll soon find out if it can be done without purchasing the whole LCA
#17
Originally Posted by SPiG
That will take care of most of them. The LCA bushings will be included, but the ES ones are better I am sure. It will replace the ball joint. And the sway bar bushings will be 2 minutes extra if you change the LCA.
The Tie rods are somewhat seperate, but should be easy while doing the process.
The Tie rods are somewhat seperate, but should be easy while doing the process.
#19
Originally Posted by klaustah
just curious, if you replace the ball joints and what not, do you need to realign your car or anything?
If any one needs right side inner tie rod i have one for sale brand new
#20
awww boo i just got an alignment done yesterday, and i think i might need to change the ball joints, i guess ill ask my mechanic and see if i really need them changed. does it damage your car if they are worn out? or is the ride just crappy?
#21
Waiting to hear back about pressing the joints out. I would love to just replace them and have a brand new control arm in there, but that costs more. I'm going to get one of those lifetime alignment deals, cause I know I wont be able to change my control arm at the same time do the axle and struts, then tranny a few months down the line.
ES are the energy suspension. The Bushing is of better quality and make for a better ride.
Originally Posted by BORQUA79
I needed to know... Whats the ES ones? And are we replacing the Lower control arm or just the bushings? That clunking is coming from the worn bushings or the accual assembly? Im a little confused
#22
thanks alot for the info MDeezy.... I saw these at Courtesy Nissan is that all I need to do the LCA's or is there other hardware or parts needed to fix the bumping and noise up front???
Courtesy Nissan ES
Courtesy Nissan ES
#23
Originally Posted by BORQUA79
thanks alot for the info MDeezy.... I saw these at Courtesy Nissan is that all I need to do the LCA's or is there other hardware or parts needed to fix the bumping and noise up front???
Courtesy Nissan ES
Courtesy Nissan ES
#24
i think i need to replace the ball joints/LCA, how much should i expect to spend for the LCA's. what's a good price, i saw some on ebay for $70 a piece and i was wondering if that's a decent price
#25
Originally Posted by bigdog97max
i think i need to replace the ball joints/LCA, how much should i expect to spend for the LCA's. what's a good price, i saw some on ebay for $70 a piece and i was wondering if that's a decent price
#26
Think about this: what keeps the steering knuckle (spindle) connected to the LCA??? The ball joint! If they are worn out and you keep driving them that way, they will eventually fail on you. When that does, bye bye steering control. And the spindle or LCA, or both will be saying hello to the ground, then you'll have more to replace than just the ball joints. Replace them as soon as you can.
Originally Posted by klaustah
does it damage your car if they are worn out? or is the ride just crappy?
#27
Originally Posted by DR-Max
Think about this: what keeps the steering knuckle (spindle) connected to the LCA??? The ball joint! If they are worn out and you keep driving them that way, they will eventually fail on you. When that does, bye bye steering control. And the spindle or LCA, or both will be saying hello to the ground, then you'll have more to replace than just the ball joints. Replace them as soon as you can.
Excellent Point. Better to replace the control arm or Ball joint now, than the WHOLE CAR later.
#28
Originally Posted by DR-Max
Think about this: what keeps the steering knuckle (spindle) connected to the LCA??? The ball joint! If they are worn out and you keep driving them that way, they will eventually fail on you. When that does, bye bye steering control. And the spindle or LCA, or both will be saying hello to the ground, then you'll have more to replace than just the ball joints. Replace them as soon as you can.
#29
Originally Posted by kingrukus
Very good point. Anywhere else to get cheap LCA's from other than EBay? The shipping to Canada is simply too much.
#30
Originally Posted by knight71
Didn't you read my PM :..I'm from T.O also..like i said, I can get you ebay LCA's from a local part store..let me know when you're ready to order.
Thanks,
Phil
#31
Well I got the new control arm locally for 98.90 cdn plus tax...seems to include ball joint and lca bushings. Now anyone know the size of sockets required to remove the LCA?
#32
I will make a write up on saturday, but basically you'll need: 36mm axle hub socket, 22mm socket for 6 transverse link bolts ( LCA), 27mm open end wrench for LCA nut,
17 and 19 mm for strut bolts and puller for seperating outer tie rod from steering knuckle. 14mm for endlink nut, and balljoint nut is 17 or 19 mm
new cotter pins are must.
Nick.
17 and 19 mm for strut bolts and puller for seperating outer tie rod from steering knuckle. 14mm for endlink nut, and balljoint nut is 17 or 19 mm
new cotter pins are must.
Nick.
#33
Originally Posted by nick
I will make a write up on saturday, but basically you'll need: 36mm axle hub socket, 22mm socket for 6 transverse link bolts ( LCA), 27mm open end wrench for LCA nut,
17 and 19 mm for strut bolts and puller for seperating outer tie rod from steering knuckle. 14mm for endlink nut, and balljoint nut is 17 or 19 mm
new cotter pins are must.
Nick.
17 and 19 mm for strut bolts and puller for seperating outer tie rod from steering knuckle. 14mm for endlink nut, and balljoint nut is 17 or 19 mm
new cotter pins are must.
Nick.
#34
I've used lift and air tools, but this job could be done with good breaker bar.
No , there is no need to remove the balljoint from LCA, just take the nut off and slide it in the lower portion of steering knuckle.
Nick.
No , there is no need to remove the balljoint from LCA, just take the nut off and slide it in the lower portion of steering knuckle.
Nick.
#35
Originally Posted by nick
I've used lift and air tools, but this job could be done with good breaker bar.
No , there is no need to remove the balljoint from LCA, just take the nut off and slide it in the lower portion of steering knuckle.
Nick.
No , there is no need to remove the balljoint from LCA, just take the nut off and slide it in the lower portion of steering knuckle.
Nick.
#36
I will have writ up for this with pics either sat evening or sunday
once you brake loose the balljoint nut , leave it on the balljoint and give it few good smacks with hammer, that should brake it loose from steering knuckle.
PB blaster helps too....
Nick.
once you brake loose the balljoint nut , leave it on the balljoint and give it few good smacks with hammer, that should brake it loose from steering knuckle.
PB blaster helps too....
Nick.
#37
Originally Posted by kingrukus
Also, am I supposed to be able to easily wiggle the ball joint with my hands? It seems damn near impossible.
#38
#39
Hello all:
I got a quote from Courtesy Nissan in Texas for the control arms. The parts guy mentioned that the list price was $180 each but they actually sell them for around $140 each plus shipping. And they include rubber bushings and ball joints.
I got a quote from Courtesy Nissan in Texas for the control arms. The parts guy mentioned that the list price was $180 each but they actually sell them for around $140 each plus shipping. And they include rubber bushings and ball joints.
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