Starting=CRAP...??????????? Done too much, and still not fixed..
09-26-2005, 08:11 AM
#121
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Originally Posted by irishmoyni
I had this same problem for years, it was really bad at one point so i took it to the dealer, well after a couple sensors and a couple hundred bucks the problem came right back. A few months later I made my own grounding system with about 7 contact points throughout the engine and body and i have never had a single problem starting my car since, warm or cold. I hope its something this simple in your situation, the whole setup cost about $30, i think its in the how to's. Good luck.
So what gauge wire did you use???
And where did you run some of the grounds too/from?
Thanks,
Mike
09-26-2005, 08:39 AM
#122
The tranny has a clip toward the rear that has an 18ga or so cable that is grounded to the body. The motor has it's main ground toward the right front. Check to make sure those are intact and in good condition before you consider adding grounds. If you've never done so, consider replacing the main grounding cables from the alternator/battery/body/motor with replacements from Walmart or Auto store--the stock cables may be oxidized, particulary where the copper is exposed (like the joining cable that runs between engine and battery that is bolted to the body midway (under the intake).
10-03-2005, 05:26 PM
#123
Well, since someone had success with changing the camshaft pos sensor (even when it tested good for him) I decided to replace it since it was only $50. Well, didn't work... car still has the intermittent sickly stutter/pause (or two) when cranking. Urgggh. I'm off to check out G35's this weekend...
10-04-2005, 01:33 PM
#124
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Thought I had my starting problem licked when I replaced my battery but it reappeared again today.
Same stuff, only when its warm, turns over forever, sometimes opening the TPS helps. When it finally starts it stumbles at very low RPM for a few seconds then idles smoothly.
Load tested the battery at the shop where I had the starter rebuilt and was told the battery was showing signs of failure. Replaced it but still have problem.
I've cleaned the TB and IACV, and tested all the sensors mentioned in this thread and still have this freakin starting problem. I'm completely stumped!!!
Anyone know how likely an injector leak would be and also wouldn't I see and smell gas fumes during a hard start?
95 SE with 136000.
Same stuff, only when its warm, turns over forever, sometimes opening the TPS helps. When it finally starts it stumbles at very low RPM for a few seconds then idles smoothly.
Load tested the battery at the shop where I had the starter rebuilt and was told the battery was showing signs of failure. Replaced it but still have problem.
I've cleaned the TB and IACV, and tested all the sensors mentioned in this thread and still have this freakin starting problem. I'm completely stumped!!!
Anyone know how likely an injector leak would be and also wouldn't I see and smell gas fumes during a hard start?
95 SE with 136000.
10-04-2005, 01:56 PM
#125
my starting problem continued...
First my car started out with no starts when the car was hot after a long drive. It would crank. This 2 or 3 times. Eventually I got a code for the camshaft pos sensor even though tested out ok. I replaced it and everything was fine for a week or two. Then the car starts to trip every once in a while when the car was hot. Then it got worse till the started died. I replaced the starter with a used one and a week later it still trips on start up. After replacing a few things now I got it to start up fine when its hot. If it sits for over 5 hours it has rough start. If its really a rough start smoke will come out.
Things I've done so far...
Cleaned throttle body
Replaced coolant temp sensor (this got rid of my rought starts when hot)
Replaced camshaft pos sensor (this got rid of my no starts when hot)
Replaced starter
Replaced battery (optima red top)
Replaced ignition switch
Checked front 3 fuel injectors (all showed 12.4 ohm resistance)
Things left...
Crankshaft pos snesor
Clean IACV (doing that this weekend)
Check rear 3 fuel injectors
Go back to my old car which never had any starting problems
Things I've done so far...
Cleaned throttle body
Replaced coolant temp sensor (this got rid of my rought starts when hot)
Replaced camshaft pos sensor (this got rid of my no starts when hot)
Replaced starter
Replaced battery (optima red top)
Replaced ignition switch
Checked front 3 fuel injectors (all showed 12.4 ohm resistance)
Things left...
Crankshaft pos snesor
Clean IACV (doing that this weekend)
Check rear 3 fuel injectors
Go back to my old car which never had any starting problems
10-10-2005, 09:22 PM
#126
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BUMP.....
It's getting worse again.... almost back to the state it was before I started trying to fix any of it....
argh......
I really don't want to pay the money to take it to an electrical technician, but if I can't get any further with this, I don't know what else I can do....
Mike
It's getting worse again.... almost back to the state it was before I started trying to fix any of it....
argh......
I really don't want to pay the money to take it to an electrical technician, but if I can't get any further with this, I don't know what else I can do....
Mike
10-14-2005, 07:47 PM
#127
Maybe it's just coincidence but with the colder weather, my max hasn't had trouble starting at all the past 2 weeks... i hope it stays that way! Anyone know if the intake air temp sensor has anything to do with startup? I just don't know why it starts better when cold and now seems to be doing better now with the cooler temps outside.
10-15-2005, 09:50 AM
#128
I've seen conflicting things. The FSM says the IAT sensor is used ONLY for diagnostic purposes. The Haynes manual says it's directly involved in determining the molecular mass of the air coming into the motor. All i know is that it's something i'd want to keep and working correctly.
10-18-2005, 06:25 AM
#130
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Great News!!
Hope this helps someone or maybe more than one on this thread.
As you may know I've been having the similar starting problems you all have but I'm in the group that hasn't recently changed a tranny.
I tested all the sensors mentioned in this thread, some of them multiple times and all tested out fine. So, I hesitantly began to start replacing parts.
I knew the plugs had about 80K on them and since the problem was temp. related I started with replacing the plugs and ECT. Swapped Boshe platinums with the same.
BINGO, problem solved. Haven't had a single hard start in over two weeks now. 1 to 2 seconds of turning the key and right into a smooth start and smooth idle.
I wanted to post this about a week ago but thought I would give it two weeks just to be sure. Now I really think the plugs have nothing to do with the fix. The old ones actually looked fine. The left rear plug was a little wet/oily which lead me to believe I had a possible injector leak. But the old ECT which tested out fine (and still does by the way) seemed to be the problem.
So, to all those that have tested countless sensors and parts, sometimes the ohms readings you get are well within range but the sensor is still bad. I still don't understand how a magnet which varies resistance when heated and cooled can go bad but whatever....
The IAT sensor and recent change in weather is something I was wondering about too since it has become cooler over the last two weeks. I too have read the conflicting info. about the IAT being used by the ECU for starting. Not sure on this one but I do live in Houston and when I say cooling off, its gone from 105 heat index all the way down to in the the 90s. Not exactly cool to most. So I figured my starting problem was less likely to be weather related.
Anyway, I sincerly hope this helps a few of you out. This problem has consumed me over the last few months. I know the car is old and has a 130K on it but I always been able to fix whatever was wrong with it within a few days. Until this starting problem. Oh and by the way, I replaced the ECT the first time about 40k ago so maybe these parts are just crappy. Who knows....
As you may know I've been having the similar starting problems you all have but I'm in the group that hasn't recently changed a tranny.
I tested all the sensors mentioned in this thread, some of them multiple times and all tested out fine. So, I hesitantly began to start replacing parts.
I knew the plugs had about 80K on them and since the problem was temp. related I started with replacing the plugs and ECT. Swapped Boshe platinums with the same.
BINGO, problem solved. Haven't had a single hard start in over two weeks now. 1 to 2 seconds of turning the key and right into a smooth start and smooth idle.
I wanted to post this about a week ago but thought I would give it two weeks just to be sure. Now I really think the plugs have nothing to do with the fix. The old ones actually looked fine. The left rear plug was a little wet/oily which lead me to believe I had a possible injector leak. But the old ECT which tested out fine (and still does by the way) seemed to be the problem.
So, to all those that have tested countless sensors and parts, sometimes the ohms readings you get are well within range but the sensor is still bad. I still don't understand how a magnet which varies resistance when heated and cooled can go bad but whatever....
Originally Posted by Mishmosh
Maybe it's just coincidence but with the colder weather, my max hasn't had trouble starting at all the past 2 weeks... i hope it stays that way! Anyone know if the intake air temp sensor has anything to do with startup? I just don't know why it starts better when cold and now seems to be doing better now with the cooler temps outside.
Anyway, I sincerly hope this helps a few of you out. This problem has consumed me over the last few months. I know the car is old and has a 130K on it but I always been able to fix whatever was wrong with it within a few days. Until this starting problem. Oh and by the way, I replaced the ECT the first time about 40k ago so maybe these parts are just crappy. Who knows....
Good luck.
10-18-2005, 01:05 PM
#133
Thanks for the update HA. Funny about the Bosch plugs--when I had them a few years back, the car actually had trouble starting. After having the Bosch's for only about 3 weeks, I switched to NGK and no more prolonged cranking. I'm running NGK coppers now and checked them--they all looked fine. This cranking is different though as it's like a sickly stutter or pause instead of continuous cranking away before firing up.
I sure hope it isn't the ECT as it was changed just last year. I'm wondering if your plugs or ECT swap was just coincidental with the weather getting colder (like I think has been working for me). I did have one mild hard start yesterday, but that's the first time in 3 weeks now. I suppose you'll know for sure if it hard starts again--let us know.
I sure hope it isn't the ECT as it was changed just last year. I'm wondering if your plugs or ECT swap was just coincidental with the weather getting colder (like I think has been working for me). I did have one mild hard start yesterday, but that's the first time in 3 weeks now. I suppose you'll know for sure if it hard starts again--let us know.
10-18-2005, 09:07 PM
#134
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who knows...
The time its gonna take me to get this fixed....... i'll have a JWT ecu and intake manifold by then...........
I hate my maxima..............when its cranking...........
The time its gonna take me to get this fixed....... i'll have a JWT ecu and intake manifold by then...........
I hate my maxima..............when its cranking...........
10-20-2005, 03:41 PM
#135
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Originally Posted by Mishmosh
Thanks for the update HA. Funny about the Bosch plugs--when I had them a few years back, the car actually had trouble starting. After having the Bosch's for only about 3 weeks, I switched to NGK and no more prolonged cranking. I'm running NGK coppers now and checked them--they all looked fine. This cranking is different though as it's like a sickly stutter or pause instead of continuous cranking away before firing up.
I sure hope it isn't the ECT as it was changed just last year. I'm wondering if your plugs or ECT swap was just coincidental with the weather getting colder (like I think has been working for me). I did have one mild hard start yesterday, but that's the first time in 3 weeks now. I suppose you'll know for sure if it hard starts again--let us know.
I sure hope it isn't the ECT as it was changed just last year. I'm wondering if your plugs or ECT swap was just coincidental with the weather getting colder (like I think has been working for me). I did have one mild hard start yesterday, but that's the first time in 3 weeks now. I suppose you'll know for sure if it hard starts again--let us know.
Again, I really believe it was the ECT and nothing to due with the plugs. If the plugs were suspect, I would have additional problems once the car was running (stumbling, rough running, etc.). None of those were present. ECT was $21 at Autozone. Best of luck to all.
10-27-2005, 01:55 PM
#137
I don't get it... after months and months of starting woes, parts replacements galore, testing this and that... for no apparent reason aside from maybe colder weather, I have not had one starting issue the past month! ...not complaining though!
10-27-2005, 07:10 PM
#138
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Yeah, mine got better.... but it's still "really" bad..... I hate this thing.....
Just when I have extra money to MAYBE spend on mods... I have to try to invest money into making my car work RIGHT....
It all started with a bad transmission....and went to a simple tranny swap.....
how the hell did I end up here....
Just when I have extra money to MAYBE spend on mods... I have to try to invest money into making my car work RIGHT....
It all started with a bad transmission....and went to a simple tranny swap.....
how the hell did I end up here....
11-08-2005, 08:59 AM
#140
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Posts: 56
Hi guys,
I have the same starting problem (for one month) on my 95 Max. There was the code 0407 so I have replaced the CPS (ref). The problem was nat solved and the code came back after few days. After that, I have checked with an ohmeter the old end the new CSP and both seams to be good. I mention that the ignition switch was replaced 6 monts ago and the starter 1.5 years ago.
When I try to start and put a litle gas, the start seams to be easier.
I have few questions for you.
1)Is there a valve to mentain pressure of the gas in the line?
2)Where is located the fuel filter?
3)Where is located the ECTS?
Thanks for your help.
I have the same starting problem (for one month) on my 95 Max. There was the code 0407 so I have replaced the CPS (ref). The problem was nat solved and the code came back after few days. After that, I have checked with an ohmeter the old end the new CSP and both seams to be good. I mention that the ignition switch was replaced 6 monts ago and the starter 1.5 years ago.
When I try to start and put a litle gas, the start seams to be easier.
I have few questions for you.
1)Is there a valve to mentain pressure of the gas in the line?
2)Where is located the fuel filter?
3)Where is located the ECTS?
Thanks for your help.
11-16-2005, 09:23 AM
#144
i'm in the same boat as you guys, i did a 5spd swap, and now i have these embarrassing starting problems. It used to start up in less than 2 seconds, but now it takes like 20 seconds every morning for her to start up. I'm gonna check the grounds and connections to the tranny, to see if anything's loose, and i'll also check the starter signal fuse, and ignition switch...it could very well be the clutch inhibitor relay...i've replaced the crank pos sensor (with 2 different types), starter solenoid, and battery and still nothing.
i'll let you know if I fix the problem. i really want to avoid going to a shop.
i'll let you know if I fix the problem. i really want to avoid going to a shop.
11-16-2005, 10:05 AM
#147
Originally Posted by tavarish
i also get EVAP codes when i pull codes from my ECU.
i get a evap sensor code and a map/baro code when i check the ecu . ive swapped ecu's,new crank sensors, camshaft,spark plug, starter, new battery and new ground wire rust free. so i got fed up and now its at a shop f* it i have all these modds to put on it like my y-pipr thats brand new sitting in the closet . i have a coolant temp sensor that i haven't put on but if the shop says i need it then i have one ready. this is killing me
11-16-2005, 10:38 AM
#148
the coolant temp sensor is one of cheapest on the list and most of time that is the culprit.
I have had evap codes (over a year) as well and I'm wondering if that might have something to do with it even though the stickies says it will not effect the operation the car. So far my rough starts have gone away since I replaced my starter with a used one 2 month ago from ebay. I bought another one previously and rough starts came back after 3 weeks. Mabye this one is stronger so far so good. Next on the list I guess I will do are the crank pos sensors eventhough according to the haynes they are working fine.
I have had evap codes (over a year) as well and I'm wondering if that might have something to do with it even though the stickies says it will not effect the operation the car. So far my rough starts have gone away since I replaced my starter with a used one 2 month ago from ebay. I bought another one previously and rough starts came back after 3 weeks. Mabye this one is stronger so far so good. Next on the list I guess I will do are the crank pos sensors eventhough according to the haynes they are working fine.
11-16-2005, 06:03 PM
#149
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Yes, but for most in here the issue started when stuff was moved around with the tranny....
I made new wires for the passanger side CPS, and it seems to have helped alot... it still studders every 5th crank or so, but its very smooth, and very quick most of the time......
I'm gettin there!
Mike
I made new wires for the passanger side CPS, and it seems to have helped alot... it still studders every 5th crank or so, but its very smooth, and very quick most of the time......
I'm gettin there!
Mike
11-17-2005, 10:35 AM
#150
well, i changed out the cam pos sensor, and my car starts up alot better now. It still stutters a little in the cold, but after driving it around, it starts like new. I hope the problem doesnt come back again.
11-17-2005, 02:42 PM
#153
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hi,I have the same symptoms like your Max right now,I was trying to find it since one week but yesterday my mate lent me nissan consult.I found that coolant temperature sensor gives faulty information to ecu (-40 deg.cel) and the ecu makes injectors to put a lots of petrol to cyl.so it's flooded .Do you have increased fuel consumption?If yes replace coolant temp. sensor.I did and now it's ok.
11-17-2005, 05:25 PM
#154
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Can you give me the part number you are refering to???
And do you mean cam position sensor??? The one that is located towards the top of the engine on the passanger side next to the motor mount????
Or did you mean to say crank position sensor??? I really hope crank position sensor, because that's the one that I have in question right now.....
anyways.... I'm going to replace my coolant temp sensor for the heck of it...
I re-ran some wires for the front Crank Position Sensor and it helped ALOT.....
I'm getting there, hopefully i'll have this figured out soon.................
Mike
And do you mean cam position sensor??? The one that is located towards the top of the engine on the passanger side next to the motor mount????
Or did you mean to say crank position sensor??? I really hope crank position sensor, because that's the one that I have in question right now.....
anyways.... I'm going to replace my coolant temp sensor for the heck of it...
I re-ran some wires for the front Crank Position Sensor and it helped ALOT.....
I'm getting there, hopefully i'll have this figured out soon.................
Mike
11-17-2005, 08:51 PM
#155
Originally Posted by blackmaxx96
Can you give me the part number you are refering to???
And do you mean cam position sensor??? The one that is located towards the top of the engine on the passanger side next to the motor mount????
Or did you mean to say crank position sensor??? I really hope crank position sensor, because that's the one that I have in question right now.....
anyways.... I'm going to replace my coolant temp sensor for the heck of it...
I re-ran some wires for the front Crank Position Sensor and it helped ALOT.....
I'm getting there, hopefully i'll have this figured out soon.................
Mike
And do you mean cam position sensor??? The one that is located towards the top of the engine on the passanger side next to the motor mount????
Or did you mean to say crank position sensor??? I really hope crank position sensor, because that's the one that I have in question right now.....
anyways.... I'm going to replace my coolant temp sensor for the heck of it...
I re-ran some wires for the front Crank Position Sensor and it helped ALOT.....
I'm getting there, hopefully i'll have this figured out soon.................
Mike
-freddy
11-30-2005, 01:03 PM
#158
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1
I have a similar problem starting a 95 5spd maxima after a clutch replacement and internal transmission work. It doesn't start at all using the starter (jump start or new battery) but it'll start right up when the car is pushed.
I tested the starter (by swapping it to another 5spd max) and it works OK. Checked CPS POS and REF and the ground on the tranny. All checked out fine. The pressure plate was OK when clutch replaced ( no chipped teeth or anything like that).
My question is: if the car starts right up when pushed and doesn't start at all when using the starter then the problem is not related to any of the sensors, spark plugs, injectors or any electronic components? Or is it possible that when the car is rolling and the clutch is released the electronics works differently than when the starter is used? Any ideas?
I tested the starter (by swapping it to another 5spd max) and it works OK. Checked CPS POS and REF and the ground on the tranny. All checked out fine. The pressure plate was OK when clutch replaced ( no chipped teeth or anything like that).
My question is: if the car starts right up when pushed and doesn't start at all when using the starter then the problem is not related to any of the sensors, spark plugs, injectors or any electronic components? Or is it possible that when the car is rolling and the clutch is released the electronics works differently than when the starter is used? Any ideas?
11-30-2005, 06:41 PM
#159
I would say that if after a clutch job, if the car does not start at all, there is a problem with the CPS not reading the flywheel teeth. Whether there is a mechanical problem like the teeth not in line with the sensor, or an electrical, ie. grounding is tough to say. Certainly it is not a starter issue if you hear the starter turning with ignition. Can't think of anything else that would be at issue.
If the car is just hard to start (instead of not starting at all), it could be that the flywheel is hard to turn for whatever reason, ie. clutch alignment off, clutch never fully disengages, etc, or again an electrical issue.
If the car is just hard to start (instead of not starting at all), it could be that the flywheel is hard to turn for whatever reason, ie. clutch alignment off, clutch never fully disengages, etc, or again an electrical issue.
11-30-2005, 09:47 PM
#160
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I would try to figure out the problem quick. Don't keep push starting it! Not only is that bad on engine and transmission, it's a brand new clutch and you're putting alot of stress on it.
Like MishMosh said, check the sensors, if one of them are bad it won't even start sometimes.
Mike
Like MishMosh said, check the sensors, if one of them are bad it won't even start sometimes.
Mike