why do the ECU's i found on car-part.com have months and years attached to them (ex. from 7/97 thru 2/98,from 3/98). what the hell does this mean, that even my year could still not be compatible or what? please help me out here

 

your cars build date is actually the year. it was made a year before and release in the fall like most new cars. you have a 98 it was built in 97.

why not try to meet up with someone around you and swap ecu so you know for sure its your ecu, rather than buying one and then you find out the ecu wasnt the problem.

 

somebody lock this up!!!!!!!!!!

 

wtf...dam bro. that sucks...

i cant really flame on u, cuz im dumb enuff to do the same

 

This thread ROCKS .!!!

 

Seriously though this thread has made me laugh cry and dumber all at the same time, it's remarkable!

 

i would take out the ecu, and then open it up to look at what you did to the inside of it. there's 4 screws holding the ecu in the car, and then 4 more screws holding the 2 parts of the ecu case together.

 

(drum beat starts) still going and going and going and going and going.... (bunny rabit drum fades)

 

those piece of ***t screws in the back are impossible to take off. i've tried everything. offset screwdriver, pliers, i only took the ones off from the front side.

 

is there any other specific kind of tool that would be more effective?

 

A brain .. with a small amount of common sense.

 

Thanks for the info......by the way, I knew whom you were refering to in each of your paragraphs.

 

Not a prob. Glad to see that you're a noob and already acting much more mature than some of the "veterans" here. Welcome to the org

 

Needle nose channel locks and a lot of patience, but you should be fine with needle nose pliers. The one on the passenger’s side is the worst. I knew this post was coming, this was one of the hardest things I did because the Haynes manual said something like "remove the four screws" easier written than in reality. The second time when removing my modified ECU it took me ten minutes.

I suggest you take out the two 10mm bolts attached to the ECU bracket (the case the ecu is surrounded by) located on the opposite side of the fire wall (where those pesky screws are giving you problems, the bolts that I am referring to are right in front of your center console under your dash, get a flashlight and you should be able to see them.) Once you get these out you can maneuver the ecu and bracket a little so that getting at those screws in the back is not such a pain. Have a magnetic pick up tool handy just in case one of those bolts makes a run for it

Should be fine after this. Sorry that so many people were hard on you. I remember when I replaced my oil pressure switch and cracked the pan because the new switched was tapered (like a triangle so there was no stopping point where the switch felt snug as was the case with the original. As I waited to for my torque wrench to click the tapered end kept expanding the threaded hole until it finally cracked the edge, very poorly designed part.) I can remember how that felt and can imagine you felt the same way when you made your post. I've ripped engines apart and installed superchargers, brakes, suspension etc., but didn't even think to check the shape of that new switch. It happens to us all; don't let some of these people discourage you from working on your car. I am sure you will be more careful. Take it to autozone to read the codes from now on, and any 4th gen ECU should work, if it's from a different transmission (i.e you have a five speed and get an auto ecu) chances are you will have a check engine light. Any of those ECU's you listed should be fine.

WTF has this section turned into? Besides beating someone after they are already down some of the BS flying around in here is absolutely BAN worthy. STFU if all you want to do is come in a thread to ridicule a fellow maxima enthusiast when he is asking for help.

 

hey thanks man, i appreciate you helping me out and supporting me. are you sure though that any '98 maxima auto ecu should work? i called the nissan parts and even the junk yards and they all said that it has to be a specific one. it's understandable why nissan would say something like that, but why would the junk yards tell me that? obviously they had previous experience with people who said it doesn't work on their car. they all say the 2 digit code must match.

 

I am basing this off of modified ECU usuage by members. Many have used other year ECU's with no problem. In fact the person that I sold my 96 auto ECU to has a 98 and of course everything is running with no problems. If you want to double check perform a search for technosquare and you should get plenty of threads that discuss the issue of being able to use a different year ECU with your vehicle.

Other than that if you need any help give me a shout