Need to replace my right side. Wondering if the outer tie rod end can be removed from the knuckle with a hammer or do I need a gear puller? I have a pickle fork, but planned on reusing the rod end, so didn't want to use that as it will ruin the boot most likely. Thanks!

 

I quick blow to the tie-rod with a hammer should seperate it from the knuckle. Just soak it for a bit in PB Blaster.

 

Be careful not to damage the tie rod end or the rod itself. Hit on the end bolt that goes through the steering knuckle, but try to hit it as few times as possible, and make the hits direct so that you dont damage the threads on the bolt or flatten the tip of it.

 

Great, thanks! I'll leave the nut on or put a junk one on to hit.

 

Be careful if you leave the nut on - because sometimes you can defrom the nut or the threads inside the nut and you end up with a bigger problem.

 

Last time I changed the steering bellows on my maxima, I had to disconnect at the balljoint to get the new bellows in. I rented a gear puller from Autozone. The balljoint disconnected w/o all the banging and noise.

 

Yeah, maybe I'll just rent the gear puller as I have to get a 36mm socket to remove the axle nut. Can't get at the ball joint nut with a socket. Have to get the half shaft out of the way. An open end wrench isn't going to remove that ball joint nut...dang! didn't get very far tonight. Anyway I'll let the WD40 work overnight.

 

Pick up some PB Blaster while you are at the auto-store. WD-40 is not very good at loosening rusted/seized bolts... PB blaster will blow away WD-40.

 

Thanks. I really need some Kroil. A buddy helped me with my '87 BMW and used that, stuff is amazing.

 

I let WD40 soak in for a few minutes, then I used a breaker bar. The nut came right off w/o a fuss.

 

The correct way to remove a ball joint without a fork is to hit the SIDES of the joint, not the top of the bolt! The joint is chamfered so by hitting the sides you squeeze the joint which pushes the shaft out. This avoids damage to the bolt threads and usually works much easier as well.

Use 2 hammers and give it a few wacks simultaneously from both sides. The joint will fall right out. The reason this works more effectively is because the cast knuckle is softer then the machined shaft.

 

ouch dude, thats a blow everything has to be taken out... good luck, make sure ou have a fluid pan nearby because when you pull out the CV joint, fluid will run out. i know from experience, it goes everywhere

 

Got the control arm out, off to the machine shop to have the ball joint pressed out and replaced, something I can't do, and get a sway bar end link which got destroyed. The bushings on the end link were really hard and crusty anyway. Oh to live in sunny CA where rust is not a problem like here in MN.

Thanks so much to nik for the excellent write-up! And everyone else for their help. Only thing I didn't have to do was remove the sway bar to frame bushing on my '97.

Satisfaction of doing it myself!