need diagnosis help
10-21-2005, 06:29 AM
#1
need diagnosis help
1999 I30; 60K miles; well serviced and maintained
Misses when the engine is cold at idle and cruising below 3500 RPM. Feels like at least one, maybe two cylinders. If I rev the motor past about 3500 RPM, you can feel the miss disappear and when it idles back the miss may or may not return. After the engine is thoroughly warm it doesn't seem to occur.
I tried to pull the codes from the ECU but someone (my clumsy butt) messed up the screwdriver slot and broke out most of the plastic so I cannot turn the ECU screw.
Bought an Actron CP9135 to pull the codes and it return P1320. From what I can find this is a manufacturers code for and ignition misfire. Well, duh.
How in the world can I narrow this down?
I replaced the coil packs last year but I still lean towards one or more of them being bad. Plugs are new, fuel filters replaced 5K ago, new air filter, all connections checked for good contact (but not checked via a meter).
Any help would be greatly appreciated and if you make it to Lexington - Beers are on me.
Misses when the engine is cold at idle and cruising below 3500 RPM. Feels like at least one, maybe two cylinders. If I rev the motor past about 3500 RPM, you can feel the miss disappear and when it idles back the miss may or may not return. After the engine is thoroughly warm it doesn't seem to occur.
I tried to pull the codes from the ECU but someone (my clumsy butt) messed up the screwdriver slot and broke out most of the plastic so I cannot turn the ECU screw.
Bought an Actron CP9135 to pull the codes and it return P1320. From what I can find this is a manufacturers code for and ignition misfire. Well, duh.
How in the world can I narrow this down?
I replaced the coil packs last year but I still lean towards one or more of them being bad. Plugs are new, fuel filters replaced 5K ago, new air filter, all connections checked for good contact (but not checked via a meter).
Any help would be greatly appreciated and if you make it to Lexington - Beers are on me.
10-21-2005, 07:27 AM
#3
P1320 = Ignition failure. In 99 Maximas, I notice you have a 99 I30, so I'm not sure if the same applies, although I bet it does, the ignition coils are prone to failure. The fix for this code is to replace all 6 coils. Check with your friends in the I30 forum - but my guess it that the same fix applies to your 99 I30.
Cheers.
Cheers.
10-21-2005, 07:39 AM
#5
I understand that it is the same drivetrain. What I wasn't sure of was if the Infiniti's (99 I30s in particular) were prone to coil failure like the 99 Maxima were, i.e. did they use the same coils in both - since there are two manufacturers for the coils.
This is moot point since you have replaced all 6 coils. Where did you get the replacement coils? and Do you remember if they were Mitsubishi or Hanshin brands?
Have the plugs ever been changed on the car? At 60k, the original platinum plugs are due for replacement.
If the car stumbles at idle, to diagnose the bad coil, unplug them one at a time. Each WORKING coil will cause a change in the way the engine runs. Each bad coil (that is causing the misfire) will not cause any change in the way the engine runs.
Replace the bad coils. You can also try to move good/bad coils between cylinders to see if the stumble moves with the "bad" coil.
This is moot point since you have replaced all 6 coils. Where did you get the replacement coils? and Do you remember if they were Mitsubishi or Hanshin brands?
Have the plugs ever been changed on the car? At 60k, the original platinum plugs are due for replacement.
If the car stumbles at idle, to diagnose the bad coil, unplug them one at a time. Each WORKING coil will cause a change in the way the engine runs. Each bad coil (that is causing the misfire) will not cause any change in the way the engine runs.
Replace the bad coils. You can also try to move good/bad coils between cylinders to see if the stumble moves with the "bad" coil.
10-21-2005, 08:33 AM
#6
Coils in 99 I30's suck too. I tried unplugging one coil at a time but it only does it when it is cold so it is goinig to take a few more days to diagnose it that way since once it is warm the problem rarely happens. Plugs are new (less than 3K) and I will check on the brand of replacement coils at lunch. Is/was there a preference?
This is incredibly frustrating. Sure is different that working on my old Chevys and Oldsmobuicks!!
This is incredibly frustrating. Sure is different that working on my old Chevys and Oldsmobuicks!!
10-21-2005, 08:43 AM
#7
Mitsubishis are less prone to failure, but I believe the Hanshins have been updated to resolve the issue that caused them to fail (but I don't know this for a fact).
Did you use NGK platinums or coppers when you replaced the plugs?
Did you use NGK platinums or coppers when you replaced the plugs?
10-21-2005, 08:48 AM
#8
coppers. replace them every 20K or so. I am **** about regular maintenance and usually don't wait until the factory suggested interval before service since a lot of my driving is in the city and occasional towing. Filters, plugs, fluids, lubrication, etc.
10-21-2005, 08:52 AM
#9
Well it looks like you are on top of things. You've hopefully just got a bad coil... this didn't just start after swapping out the plugs did it? If its not a coil or plug, then it could be an injector... you could try listen for clicks from each injector too...
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