So.... today while putting my chromes away for the winter i noticed i had a bad passenger side CV, i considered ordering from Raxles, but in the end, just went to autozone and for $60 got a rebuilt one with a lifetime warranty. anyway to the question, when i am trying to get the nut in the center of the lug nuts off, should i do that with the wheel on or off? also any tricks to getting it off cause it sure seems tight, and yes i got the cotter pin out

 

Go back to Autozone and get the axle socket, for a 15 dollar deposit. They also give you a big breaker bar with it. I use my impact it's fast and easier, but....And yes, take the wheel off first.

 

i got a big breaker bar, and a 36mm socket, so ill give this a whirl tommorrow...thanks man.

 

Keep the wheel on the car and the car on the ground.
That will keep the wheel from spinning when you crack the center nut loose.
It's much easier that way, trust me.

 

Or like when doing brakes, you can wedge a bar in between lug studs, I just took off my wheel to do it yesterday.

I also bought a 4 foot breaker bar (actually it's just a long pipe) that I used in combo with a 1/2 inch breaker bar. Came off pretty easily.

 

u need a torque wrench to put that nut back on. too much force will foul he wheel bearing and cost u $$ your not wanting to spend. trust me i did that and i regret it to this day haha

 

I agree with Tom, do it on the ground, especially if you have to use a brake bar and have no power tools, it will help up a lot.

 

yea toms the man, i did it per his reccomendations, and with a little PB blaster, it came off like butter.

Thanks

 

torque it to spec!!!

 

whats spec?

 

about 120lb/ft . . . I think dont have haynes or fsm close to me.

 

thank you sir

 

if u over torque u can mangle your wheel bearing. aka dont put it on with excessive force or an impact gun like i did haha

 

No, fsm says 174-231 ft-lbs.

Check motorvate.ca's website if you don't believe me, or check your Haynes. It is definately more than 120 ft-lbs.

 

yes it is 174...

 

your right, I was guessing, since I didnt know off the top of my head, and didnt have my fsm or haynes, as stated.

 

That wasn't supposed to sound offensive, but reading over it again I see it could've been interpretted that way. No disrespect intended. I justknew what the values were since I replaced my driverside axle on Saturday.

 

Its cool, no offense taken, didnt mean to sound offensive. No harm done

 

wow a thread where people got along, who knew?

 

I am having trouble getting the passenger side CV axle knocked out of the hub. Any suggestions?

 

I haven't replaced that side yet, but isn't there a trick of putting a screwdriver through the driverside and knocking the passenger side out from the driverside? Hold on, I don't have the Haynes handy, but I have a pdf of the factory service manual, so maybe they have something.

edit: I've only seen something mentioning the difference between A/T and M/T models; what tranny?

Free bump I guess.

 

auto, i think the screwdriver trick is for getting the left side out. I can't knock the spindle out of the right side hub. Ay ideas?

 

This write-up was for replacing the CV boots, but see if it has any info that might help ya: http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/401

 

First time taking out the passenger axle, I was having a lot of trouble getting it out the hub also. I ended up removing that bracket it goes through because it get rusted in there. Once its out, you can beat it with a hammer and it should come off. Putting some anti-seize around it should make it a lot easier to get off next time.