Writeup: Clutch installation
11-07-2005, 04:03 PM
#1
Writeup: Clutch installation
Hey all i figured i would post this here just for the heck of it so anyone who wants to know the steps to take to replace a clutch in the 4th gen can read this. I actually typed this up for a private message to somone that wanted to know so if it kinda doesnt make sense and seems like im talking to somone thats why. Anyway, i actually didnt use any writeup or even a service manual like a chiltons or hayes lol. I dont know why i didnt but i did the same thing with my MEVI and both turned out fine. I think its more of a common sense thing if you have the knowlage of how things work kind of.
To start off with this is prolly going to take you guys about 7-8 hours depending on how smooth things go if this is your first time. So keep that in mind and start some morning where you have both that day and the next just in case. I personally started mine at 1:30pm and got the tranny back on at midnight then finished the rest the morning after. Keep in mind though i DID work all by myself to do that which was crazy
. There is a tool list at the bottom.
First things first, you NEED to drain the transmission fluid out of the tranny either using the drain plug that is kind of hard to find but its right next to where the shift linkage meets the tranny and the bolt is facing the pass side i think its a 12mm and thats the only one that small around there. The first and main thing after that would be a 36mm socket for the axle nuts. Those suckers are torqued on at just shy of 200 ft lbs so there virtually impossable to break loose, have your buddy sit inside the car after you take the wheels off and have the car on jackstands of course. while hes sitting in the car have him press the brake down as hard as he possably can and hold it. While hes holding it take a preferebly 1/2" breaker bar with that 36mm socket put it on the axlenut and make sure you have it lined up so u can stand on the end of the breaker bar and just stand on it and jump with all your weight smashing the heck out of it but make sure the socket doesnt go crooked or youll strip it. forgot to add that there is a cotter pin and nut cover before you see the actual axle nut. After the nuts are off you need to remove the two nuts and bolts that hold the whole brake and everything to the strut, also remove the little clip that holds your brake line to the strut youll see it in back, and if you have ABS youll also have a smaller brake line that youll need to take a 10mm screw out to remove.
After that what youll need to do is push the axle through the rotor so that you can get it out, this takes some patients as you need to menuver the brake assemablly so as to get the axle out as theres only limited play in it. Once you get the outsides of the axles out you can have your buddy pull as hard as he can straight out on the drivers side as you can pry with a long flathead screwdriver right where the axle enters the tranny youll see a metal piece that goes into some rubber (axle seal) you can get the screwdriver in there and pry against the tranny. This is also very hard to get the axle out because of a "c clip" that holds it in place, but eventually you will get it out.
Then to the pass side one, if you go under the car you will see a rusty looking piece with three bolts in it that is attached to the axle. Remove those 3 bolts on that rusty looking piece and again have your buddy pull and you can take that flathead and hammer and use it as a chizzle to hammer into the seam between the rusty piece and the other rusty looking piece thats attached to the axle. If you dont understand what im saying now, you will when you look at it its like ---{|}----= that big part is the rusty looking piece and youll see a seam in the middle, thats where you want to chizzle into because once it seperates the axle will let free and your buddy will go flying lol.
After that youll want to go under the hood and remove the stock intake if you havent already, and also take out your battery. After those two things are removed then you should take the starter out, theres two bolts that hold this in one is like 14mm and the rear is about 18-19mm dont remember but it wont be hard to just test those out and see if they fit with a ratchet and extention. You DONT need to remove any wires from the starter just pull it out and set it on the battery tray where the battery used to sit and youll be good. So at this point your going to want to be thinking of dropping the trans but before you can theres a couple more things that you need to remove.
One being the drivers side wheel well splash gaurd that covers the transmission itself not the one that makes up the wheel well, its only like a 12" x 12" piece of plastic thats held on the engine bay with two little srews which would be behind the tire if it was there and one on the bottom holding it to the front lower splash gaurd. Then you need to go back under the car and remove the shift linkage from the tranny, first remove the one that looks like it goes into a bearing bushing type piece thats on the tranny, theres two screws that you could remove here, do the one that is straight up and down, use a 12mm socket on the bottom one with a ratchet and hold the nut on top with a 12mm wrench. Once you get that one off the next one can be removed with a 14mm wrench for the "upper" bolt and the other with two long extentions and a 14mm socket going around the y pipe and cross member.
When you get all that removed now its time to start taking the bolts out of the tranny itself, remove only those that look to be connecting the end of the trans and the engine becasue there is a bunch that hold the gear part to the bellhousing aswell. There is i think 4 17-18mm bolts on the top side of the bellhousing that you can see from the same angle that you removed the starter from up top. take those out, then theres like 3 or 4 14mm bolts on the bottom side that you can take out, then there one more tough one thats on the upper side of the engine side of the tranny and can be seen above where the pass side axle was removed, this one is also one of those 17 or 18mm bolts. Dont be afraid when removing these that its going to fall because its not theres a couple pegs in the bellhousing and a motor mount that prevents that.
You then want to remove the two 17mm bolts on the slave cyl, if you dont know where that is its the rectanglular type of piece that the black clutch line is going to that sits on top of the tranny and is kind of hard to see, you must use a 17mm wrench to take those bolts off as a socket doesnt fit in there. If you have the stock clutch line the you need to remove the two 12mm bolts that holds the line to the motor mount. Then its time to finally drop it.
Take the 4 bolts out that hold the trans to the motormount on the drivers side. The tranny will not fall down yet even though all bolts are out of the bellhousing and no mount holding it up. Take your jack and place it underneeth the tranny on that seem where the bellhousing and the gear part of the trans meet, right in the middle. Raise up the jack til it touches the tranny then have somone go underneeth and on the very bottom of the bellhousing youll see a small opening that is used as a pry point, so AGAIN use that flathead by sticking it in there and pry the heck out of it. It will make the trans fall away from the engine and little but the clutch and pressure plate wil be in the way of removing it completly aswell as two wires which youll plainly see u just need to disconect.
So do that and then lower it a couple inches as you also pull the jack to move the trans away from the engine. Keep doing that until its off and the jack is at its lowest point then you can scoot the tranny back out the drivers wheel well as much as you want but make sure you dont knock it off the jack because its one awkword 120lb piece of junk lol.
Now youll see on the engine the pressure plate, take all the sorounding bolts off the pressure plate with a 1/2" ratchet and a socket that fits, you wont be able to just turn because the whole flywheel will turn with it so have your buddy stick that flathead in the teeth of the flywheel up at the topside as you remove all the bolts. Once off again theres little pegs that hold on the pressure plate mind you the PP is about 13 lbs so watch your head because it hurts lol. When you take it off the clutch disc also will fall out. Take those and throw em away or do w/e with them.
Now you want to take the old throwout bearing off, look inside the transmission and youll see the clutchfork holding the bearing. Just pull that whole piece out and it will pop out as a spring holds it in on the underside. The bearing just sildes right off. Put the new one on the fork and make sure that the spring part on the back of the clutch fork is in its two groves that it needs to be in. Then you want to push it back onto the input shaft and make sure that that springclip thing clips back onto the little ball underneeth it.
Now is time to either remove the flywheel and take it to a shop or NAPA or somwhere and get it resurfaced or do the ghetto way and buy some 120 grit sandpaper and sand all the crap off the flywheel but doing it that way wont remove all the "hotspots" and groves ect but ill leave it up to you on what you want to do there. I personally just sanded mine and left it at that because it wasent to bad and when i was done just cleaned it off with a cotton towel.
At this point you want to take the clutchdisc put it inside the pressure plate and line it up to the flywheel. Line those two pegs up and push it on. Then you want to install all the little bolts around the pressure plate just hand tight. Now use your clutch alignment tool and push it through the clutch disc and line it up with the pilot bearing and insert it tight so its all straight and even and the disc is sitting right. Then go in a star pattern around the PP and tighten all the bolts little by little keeping it even in all of them so its not going crooked. Keep going in that pattern until there all torqued to 35 ft lbs or close( highly reccomend using a torque wrench). Again while your tightening the bolts you need to stick that flathead in the flywheel teeth to keep it from moving while you tighten those pp bolts.
After thats done youll want to push the tranny back in twords the engine and jack it up. It may take a while to line up with the proper holes but eventually with the jack and a little help from yourself ect your buddy wil be able to put in a couple bolts up top then you can do the same for the bottom with those little 14mm bolts. Once you get all the bolts started you can keep tightening and those little pegs with disappear into there proper holes again as it started.
Once you get the trans back on you do everything again in reverse order, Motor mount bolts first then slave, shift linkage, axles ect. Reinstalling the axles can also be a choir. The drivers side has a little c clip in a groove twords the end of it, what youll need to do is lay on your back and reinsert the axle into the tranny as best you can until it stops due to that clip. Take both hand around the end of the axle right at where it goes into the tranny and pull it inwards twords the trans as hard as you can as your buddy pushes the axle straight into the tranny. Eventually it will pop back in and you should be good. Pass side just line up that rusty piece again and put those 3 bolts back in. From there it should be cake as long as you retrace your steps.
Sorry for not having any pictures or anything to assist with that and make a couple guesses at sizes ect. If anyone has any problems with the install at all or need any reassurance PM me and ill give you my phone number so u can call if you run into some problems. I understand that i dont use that many technical terms and kind of overlay how to do things but its the best i can do on 4 hours of sleep and being interupted sevral times by my daughter to eat ect lol
Tool List:
A buddy thats not scared to get dirty
Basic socket set ranging from 10mm-21mm
basic 1/2" drive socketset and ratchet
1/2" 6 or 12 point 36mm socket
1/2" breakerbar
torque wrench
flathead and phillips screwdrivers
basic openend wrench set from 10mm-20mm
a bucket or catchcan or fluids
towels
160grit sandpaper
hydrolic jack and two jackstands
and anything i may have forgotten which should be much if anything
Also if im missing somthing, or somone wants me to add somthing they think is a better way of doing somthing then hit me up with a PM me. I do understand that i have no pictures of what im talking about which makes things harder but if you print it out and go along with what i say you should see exacly what im talking about.
-Ryan
To start off with this is prolly going to take you guys about 7-8 hours depending on how smooth things go if this is your first time. So keep that in mind and start some morning where you have both that day and the next just in case. I personally started mine at 1:30pm and got the tranny back on at midnight then finished the rest the morning after. Keep in mind though i DID work all by myself to do that which was crazy
. There is a tool list at the bottom. First things first, you NEED to drain the transmission fluid out of the tranny either using the drain plug that is kind of hard to find but its right next to where the shift linkage meets the tranny and the bolt is facing the pass side i think its a 12mm and thats the only one that small around there. The first and main thing after that would be a 36mm socket for the axle nuts. Those suckers are torqued on at just shy of 200 ft lbs so there virtually impossable to break loose, have your buddy sit inside the car after you take the wheels off and have the car on jackstands of course. while hes sitting in the car have him press the brake down as hard as he possably can and hold it. While hes holding it take a preferebly 1/2" breaker bar with that 36mm socket put it on the axlenut and make sure you have it lined up so u can stand on the end of the breaker bar and just stand on it and jump with all your weight smashing the heck out of it but make sure the socket doesnt go crooked or youll strip it. forgot to add that there is a cotter pin and nut cover before you see the actual axle nut. After the nuts are off you need to remove the two nuts and bolts that hold the whole brake and everything to the strut, also remove the little clip that holds your brake line to the strut youll see it in back, and if you have ABS youll also have a smaller brake line that youll need to take a 10mm screw out to remove.
After that what youll need to do is push the axle through the rotor so that you can get it out, this takes some patients as you need to menuver the brake assemablly so as to get the axle out as theres only limited play in it. Once you get the outsides of the axles out you can have your buddy pull as hard as he can straight out on the drivers side as you can pry with a long flathead screwdriver right where the axle enters the tranny youll see a metal piece that goes into some rubber (axle seal) you can get the screwdriver in there and pry against the tranny. This is also very hard to get the axle out because of a "c clip" that holds it in place, but eventually you will get it out.
Then to the pass side one, if you go under the car you will see a rusty looking piece with three bolts in it that is attached to the axle. Remove those 3 bolts on that rusty looking piece and again have your buddy pull and you can take that flathead and hammer and use it as a chizzle to hammer into the seam between the rusty piece and the other rusty looking piece thats attached to the axle. If you dont understand what im saying now, you will when you look at it its like ---{|}----= that big part is the rusty looking piece and youll see a seam in the middle, thats where you want to chizzle into because once it seperates the axle will let free and your buddy will go flying lol.
After that youll want to go under the hood and remove the stock intake if you havent already, and also take out your battery. After those two things are removed then you should take the starter out, theres two bolts that hold this in one is like 14mm and the rear is about 18-19mm dont remember but it wont be hard to just test those out and see if they fit with a ratchet and extention. You DONT need to remove any wires from the starter just pull it out and set it on the battery tray where the battery used to sit and youll be good. So at this point your going to want to be thinking of dropping the trans but before you can theres a couple more things that you need to remove.
One being the drivers side wheel well splash gaurd that covers the transmission itself not the one that makes up the wheel well, its only like a 12" x 12" piece of plastic thats held on the engine bay with two little srews which would be behind the tire if it was there and one on the bottom holding it to the front lower splash gaurd. Then you need to go back under the car and remove the shift linkage from the tranny, first remove the one that looks like it goes into a bearing bushing type piece thats on the tranny, theres two screws that you could remove here, do the one that is straight up and down, use a 12mm socket on the bottom one with a ratchet and hold the nut on top with a 12mm wrench. Once you get that one off the next one can be removed with a 14mm wrench for the "upper" bolt and the other with two long extentions and a 14mm socket going around the y pipe and cross member.
When you get all that removed now its time to start taking the bolts out of the tranny itself, remove only those that look to be connecting the end of the trans and the engine becasue there is a bunch that hold the gear part to the bellhousing aswell. There is i think 4 17-18mm bolts on the top side of the bellhousing that you can see from the same angle that you removed the starter from up top. take those out, then theres like 3 or 4 14mm bolts on the bottom side that you can take out, then there one more tough one thats on the upper side of the engine side of the tranny and can be seen above where the pass side axle was removed, this one is also one of those 17 or 18mm bolts. Dont be afraid when removing these that its going to fall because its not theres a couple pegs in the bellhousing and a motor mount that prevents that.
You then want to remove the two 17mm bolts on the slave cyl, if you dont know where that is its the rectanglular type of piece that the black clutch line is going to that sits on top of the tranny and is kind of hard to see, you must use a 17mm wrench to take those bolts off as a socket doesnt fit in there. If you have the stock clutch line the you need to remove the two 12mm bolts that holds the line to the motor mount. Then its time to finally drop it.
Take the 4 bolts out that hold the trans to the motormount on the drivers side. The tranny will not fall down yet even though all bolts are out of the bellhousing and no mount holding it up. Take your jack and place it underneeth the tranny on that seem where the bellhousing and the gear part of the trans meet, right in the middle. Raise up the jack til it touches the tranny then have somone go underneeth and on the very bottom of the bellhousing youll see a small opening that is used as a pry point, so AGAIN use that flathead by sticking it in there and pry the heck out of it. It will make the trans fall away from the engine and little but the clutch and pressure plate wil be in the way of removing it completly aswell as two wires which youll plainly see u just need to disconect.
So do that and then lower it a couple inches as you also pull the jack to move the trans away from the engine. Keep doing that until its off and the jack is at its lowest point then you can scoot the tranny back out the drivers wheel well as much as you want but make sure you dont knock it off the jack because its one awkword 120lb piece of junk lol.
Now youll see on the engine the pressure plate, take all the sorounding bolts off the pressure plate with a 1/2" ratchet and a socket that fits, you wont be able to just turn because the whole flywheel will turn with it so have your buddy stick that flathead in the teeth of the flywheel up at the topside as you remove all the bolts. Once off again theres little pegs that hold on the pressure plate mind you the PP is about 13 lbs so watch your head because it hurts lol. When you take it off the clutch disc also will fall out. Take those and throw em away or do w/e with them.
Now you want to take the old throwout bearing off, look inside the transmission and youll see the clutchfork holding the bearing. Just pull that whole piece out and it will pop out as a spring holds it in on the underside. The bearing just sildes right off. Put the new one on the fork and make sure that the spring part on the back of the clutch fork is in its two groves that it needs to be in. Then you want to push it back onto the input shaft and make sure that that springclip thing clips back onto the little ball underneeth it.
Now is time to either remove the flywheel and take it to a shop or NAPA or somwhere and get it resurfaced or do the ghetto way and buy some 120 grit sandpaper and sand all the crap off the flywheel but doing it that way wont remove all the "hotspots" and groves ect but ill leave it up to you on what you want to do there. I personally just sanded mine and left it at that because it wasent to bad and when i was done just cleaned it off with a cotton towel.
At this point you want to take the clutchdisc put it inside the pressure plate and line it up to the flywheel. Line those two pegs up and push it on. Then you want to install all the little bolts around the pressure plate just hand tight. Now use your clutch alignment tool and push it through the clutch disc and line it up with the pilot bearing and insert it tight so its all straight and even and the disc is sitting right. Then go in a star pattern around the PP and tighten all the bolts little by little keeping it even in all of them so its not going crooked. Keep going in that pattern until there all torqued to 35 ft lbs or close( highly reccomend using a torque wrench). Again while your tightening the bolts you need to stick that flathead in the flywheel teeth to keep it from moving while you tighten those pp bolts.
After thats done youll want to push the tranny back in twords the engine and jack it up. It may take a while to line up with the proper holes but eventually with the jack and a little help from yourself ect your buddy wil be able to put in a couple bolts up top then you can do the same for the bottom with those little 14mm bolts. Once you get all the bolts started you can keep tightening and those little pegs with disappear into there proper holes again as it started.
Once you get the trans back on you do everything again in reverse order, Motor mount bolts first then slave, shift linkage, axles ect. Reinstalling the axles can also be a choir. The drivers side has a little c clip in a groove twords the end of it, what youll need to do is lay on your back and reinsert the axle into the tranny as best you can until it stops due to that clip. Take both hand around the end of the axle right at where it goes into the tranny and pull it inwards twords the trans as hard as you can as your buddy pushes the axle straight into the tranny. Eventually it will pop back in and you should be good. Pass side just line up that rusty piece again and put those 3 bolts back in. From there it should be cake as long as you retrace your steps.
Sorry for not having any pictures or anything to assist with that and make a couple guesses at sizes ect. If anyone has any problems with the install at all or need any reassurance PM me and ill give you my phone number so u can call if you run into some problems. I understand that i dont use that many technical terms and kind of overlay how to do things but its the best i can do on 4 hours of sleep and being interupted sevral times by my daughter to eat ect lol
Tool List:
A buddy thats not scared to get dirty
Basic socket set ranging from 10mm-21mm
basic 1/2" drive socketset and ratchet
1/2" 6 or 12 point 36mm socket
1/2" breakerbar
torque wrench
flathead and phillips screwdrivers
basic openend wrench set from 10mm-20mm
a bucket or catchcan or fluids
towels
160grit sandpaper
hydrolic jack and two jackstands
and anything i may have forgotten which should be much if anything
Also if im missing somthing, or somone wants me to add somthing they think is a better way of doing somthing then hit me up with a PM me. I do understand that i have no pictures of what im talking about which makes things harder but if you print it out and go along with what i say you should see exacly what im talking about.
-Ryan
11-07-2005, 04:14 PM
#3
Originally Posted by njmodi
HOLY PARAGRAPHS BATMAN!!! 
11-07-2005, 04:17 PM
#4
Haha. Well consider this. If it's hard to read, no one is going to read it. BTW. Does these instructions offer any different information that's already in the stickies and various 4-gen faqs?
Originally Posted by joosdawg
Dont start, i could really care less to seperate into paragraphs let alone use prop punctuation. like i said 4 hours of sleep and getting interrupted many times. if i get more responses like this maybe ill just delete it because i didnt take time out to write all that just to get comments like yours.
11-07-2005, 04:17 PM
#5
Good thing we have http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/805 .
11-07-2005, 04:19 PM
#6
yea its what you actually need to do vs some half cooked writeup like the one on motorvate which tells you absolutly nothing. i looked everywhere before i installed mine and couldnt find anything complete or enough info.
11-07-2005, 04:25 PM
#7
Originally Posted by joosdawg
Dont start, i could really care less to seperate into paragraphs let alone use prop punctuation. like i said 4 hours of sleep and getting interrupted many times. if i get more responses like this maybe ill just delete it because i didnt take time out to write all that just to get comments like yours.
when I saw the post! I'm sure it's very useful and for anyone that has to change their clutch - if they aren't willing to put in the effort to read/parse/understand it, it's their loss.Cheers.
11-07-2005, 04:26 PM
#8
nice write up but the haynes describes it much better and clearer.
thx for trying to contribute.
if you really want to help break down it into steps.
if i wanted to use your write up to do a cluth i would be hopeless.
you do things one at a time when you work on the car.
when i'm dirty and working on a car i want to goto the next step quickly...not find out where i was in one big **** paragraph ya know..
get pictures of each step and what you are talking about, as you said your terms arn't technical so pictures would be needed for those whom arn't mechanically inclined.
host this on a website for orgers to use!
bye.
thanks again.
perhaps look at how other write ups are done on vqpower.com etc to get an idea how us orgers like em...
--jon
thx for trying to contribute.
if you really want to help break down it into steps.
if i wanted to use your write up to do a cluth i would be hopeless.
you do things one at a time when you work on the car.
when i'm dirty and working on a car i want to goto the next step quickly...not find out where i was in one big **** paragraph ya know..
get pictures of each step and what you are talking about, as you said your terms arn't technical so pictures would be needed for those whom arn't mechanically inclined.
host this on a website for orgers to use!
bye.
thanks again.
perhaps look at how other write ups are done on vqpower.com etc to get an idea how us orgers like em...
--jon
11-07-2005, 04:37 PM
#9
There i fixed it to seperate into paragraphs 
. Also thanks for giving me pointers on making the writeup. I also wanted to take alot of pictures while doing it but just couldnt because no one else was there with clean hands to man the camera. I think ill go out tomorrow and get pictures of the things that are needed to be seen that is external.
. Also thanks for giving me pointers on making the writeup. I also wanted to take alot of pictures while doing it but just couldnt because no one else was there with clean hands to man the camera. I think ill go out tomorrow and get pictures of the things that are needed to be seen that is external.
11-07-2005, 09:35 PM
#13
Originally Posted by ThisMaxIsTight
thats an incredible write up ... screw the people hating it... I bet most of them cant swap a clutch out ... great for peeps without a haynes!
i really appreciate it
11-13-2005, 09:36 PM
#15
Thats a great write up bro. Ppl doing this for the first time actually need some detailed info on this stuff, so when they actually do it, there not clueless.
some stuff could actually help for the 5spd swap.
btw if u put some pix, it would be the ultimate write up!
some stuff could actually help for the 5spd swap.
btw if u put some pix, it would be the ultimate write up!
10-20-2006, 01:56 PM
#17
nice write up
I'll be changing mine in a few weeks.. I was unsure about doing it myself as I've only done a clutch twice before once on my 240sx which was easy since it's RWD and once on my civic which is pretty easy also... But this sounds similar to the civic except for the fact that the tranny weighs double of what i'm used to.
I'll let you know how it works out, thanks
I'll let you know how it works out, thanks
11-18-2006, 12:30 AM
#18
Originally Posted by cruzer82
I'll be changing mine in a few weeks.. I was unsure about doing it myself as I've only done a clutch twice before once on my 240sx which was easy since it's RWD and once on my civic which is pretty easy also... But this sounds similar to the civic except for the fact that the tranny weighs double of what i'm used to.
I'll let you know how it works out, thanks
I'll let you know how it works out, thanks
did u ever do ur clutch? just curious
11-18-2006, 11:09 AM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Pullman, WA
Posts: 486
i just did mine. Prior to doing it the most complicated things I had ever done on a car were the brakes & rotors. Like somebody told me when I was still gathering info on doing it, "it's not hard, just a lot of grunt work."
as an added bonus having done that i now consider myself pretty knowledgeable about my maxima and think i would feel comfortable doing any mechanical work on it besides taking apart the motor.
edit: or rebuilding the tranny, i looked at the writeup for that on motorvate and all those gears scare me.
as an added bonus having done that i now consider myself pretty knowledgeable about my maxima and think i would feel comfortable doing any mechanical work on it besides taking apart the motor.
edit: or rebuilding the tranny, i looked at the writeup for that on motorvate and all those gears scare me.
11-18-2006, 10:27 PM
#20
Originally Posted by ffcbairn
i just did mine. Prior to doing it the most complicated things I had ever done on a car were the brakes & rotors. Like somebody told me when I was still gathering info on doing it, "it's not hard, just a lot of grunt work."
as an added bonus having done that i now consider myself pretty knowledgeable about my maxima and think i would feel comfortable doing any mechanical work on it besides taking apart the motor.
edit: or rebuilding the tranny, i looked at the writeup for that on motorvate and all those gears scare me.
as an added bonus having done that i now consider myself pretty knowledgeable about my maxima and think i would feel comfortable doing any mechanical work on it besides taking apart the motor.
edit: or rebuilding the tranny, i looked at the writeup for that on motorvate and all those gears scare me.
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