emax02

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I just removed my Spark Plugs and after only a week of use there is carbon build up on the plugs. Now my question is, what whould cause this carbon build up? I know I got a ton of great advice in my last post but this new info may help my diagnostic. I also just replaced my PCV Valve and I found that it was clogged and did not click when shaken like it is supposed to. Gould a jammed PCV valve make my car run rich? Which in turn whould make my plugs get carbon on it? I thought I was running way to rich before because of my SC but that is off and the problem is still here. Whould a o2 sensor be the culprit here? I did notice when I replaced one of my o2 sensors my car drove normall for a full 45 minutes opposed to the usual 20-25 minutes in traffic/back road driving. I just want to see if any one can pinpoint this problem with my new info, if not I will make a appointment with my mechanic tomarrow. Thanks for any and all advice.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

When you took out the supercharger, did you remember to take out the Stillen FPR?? Or at least adjust the FPR down to the stock pressure??

emax02

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I remembered to take the Aux. Fuel pump out. It's kinda hard to miss . As for reajusting my fuel pressure, I never touched that when the SC was on or off. Thanks for your thoughts.

Daniel B. Martin

An over-rich mixture could be caused by ...
- bad Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
- bad fuel Pressure Regulator
- obstructed fuel return line
- sticking fuel injectors
- bad front Oxygen Sensor(s)

Some posts in your previous thread urged you to make a fuel pressure test. You have not done that. I don't understand why you keep coming back asking for information and advice when you haven't used what has already been provided. Maybe the advice you really want is this: Your dealer is your friend. He will fix your car and charge you a fair price.

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

We all wonder, Daniel.

emax02

iTrader: (1)

Thats a great question. I would say the biggest reason why I have not done any of these tests is because I for one don't know how to do the tests and #2, is because I do not have the tools, futher more the problem is so hard to make happen that I think if I did these tests the results whould come up fine because my car was running fine. The only way a test could be accuratly performed is when the car is not running right and when the car is not running right I am ususaly in traffic on a busy street and for me to be able to stop and get out of my car and start looking at gauges is upserd and impossible to do.


I think I have some great news! I caught my car in the act prematurely and then turned around and headed straight home where my car then stalled out. I then got two MIL codes, they are as follows,#1 was 41 which intakes a Intake air temperature sensor and the the 2nd code I got was 12 which indacates my MAF sensor. Now this makes perfect sense to me because I had to modify my Intake sensor when I installed my SC, when modifieng it the sensor was banged around and sanded down. Also when I went to reinstall the sensor I was forced to glue it in because it's dementions have changed and it would no longer fit into the intake piping, well the glue has since then heated up and gotten all over the sensor. I will do a test with the sensor in a few minutes and see what kind of results I get. BTW I think the MAF reading was triggered because the Intake sensor runs through the same wiring as the MAF sensor so I think if one is defective then a code will be triggered for the other becuase they work with each other. But maybe I am wrong?


Danil B. or other, what do you think of this new information? If these pieces were acting up whould this explain my car's problems? Thanks.

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

Search for "0401":

http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?...der=descending

Search for "0102":

http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?...der=descending

Daniel B. Martin

This is a good reason. Each of us has a personal limit, and anything beyond that should be turned over to the professional.

I'm not trying to talk you into doing the fuel pressure test. I'll explain, for background knowledge, how this situation could be handled. You install the pressure gauge at the end of a 2-foot length of high-pressure fuel line. You run the line so that it exits the engine compartment at the base of the windshield. You position the pressure gauge with its face against the outside surface of the windshield and secure it there with duct tape. With this arrangement you can read the pressure as you drive down the road. You take your eyes off the road even less than you would to read the speedometer.

AFAIK these two sensors are independent. They happen to be located in the same physical neighborhood but they don't work together.

A defect in the Mass Air Flow Sensor could explain all of your symptoms. The MAFS is one of the most important engine management sensors. If it sends bad information to the Engine Control Module all sorts of nasty malfunctions could arise.

emax02

iTrader: (1)

A defect in the Mass Air Flow Sensor could explain all of your symptoms. The MAFS is one of the most important engine management sensors. If it sends bad information to the Engine Control Module all sorts of nasty malfunctions could arise. [/B][/QUOTE]

Is there a way I can test my MAF sensor my self? I have a Volt meter but I do not know the procedure. BTW I did test my air temp sensor and the results were unfortunatly perfect. Thanks for any info, BTW I greatly appreciate all the help you have given me, I owe you one.

MaxiPad96

Ghetto rig $hit like mass air sensors and your bound for problems.. How many mistakes can one person make?.. I think you would save money getting other people to fix your car instead of doing it yourself.

emax02

iTrader: (1)

Lets see , I never once tampered with my MAF sensor, If you could read you whould have noticed that I mentioned the fact that I "modified" my air temp sensor, which was nescasary for my SC install. I also recently updated that the sensor is in perfect working order after a diagnostic. BTW you are now official on my ignore list,
congrats . And ohh yeah I have only damaged 1 thing on my so far and that was my clutch.


Now back to the subject on hand, I just tested my MAF sensor and got some weird results, I first tested it with just my key in the ignition and I got 0.7 Volts which seems to be fine, the 2nd test I did was test the car at idle{after warming it up}, my results were very strange, the Volt meter was reading a very high signal at around 10.0-13.0 Volts now these #'s are way out of wack becuase there supost to be between 1.0-1.7. Another thing I was noticing was my car whould make weird noise and the Volts whould jump up to over 20.0 Volts. I should also mention that when the needle for my Volt meter was in the MAF sensors wiring the car whould sound wierd and then if I pushed the needle around a little bit the car staled, twice in fact. BTW the needles of my Volt meter had no effect on my 95 maximas idle. Strange?

I also tested my 95 Max's MAF Sensor and got a reading off .9V when the key was in ignition and after letting the car fully heat up I got 6.2-7.0 Volts which is way to high so maybe my Volt meters messed up? It always works perfect though, hmm?

Daniel B. or other, dose the info I just provided sound like a have a bad MAF Sensor? Another thing I should note is that after reseting my ECU I once again got a MAF sensor MIL code. I will be looking for a MAF sensor and maybe this will fix the problem! Unless someone strongly objects to this idea. Thanks!!

NickStam

iTrader: (3)

Let him be,

He likes to play with his car. All day.

Daniel B. Martin

If you doubt your meter's accuracy, borrow one and compare the readings. My guess is your meter is correct and you are homing in on your engine's principal problem. That problem is the Mass Air Flow Sensor or its associated connector and wiring. Your post sounds as if you are following the MAFS test procedure in the Chilton repair manual (page 4-16) or the Haynes repair manual (page 6-9). That is a useful test but not a complete test. If you have electronics knowledge and an oscilloscope you can make further tests. If not, your options are ...
- pay the dealer to test the MAFS
- borrow a MAFS from a friend who drives a 4Gen Maxima
- buy a used, remanufactured, or new MAFS

Please bear in mind that the problem could be in the wiring. The MAFS is an expensive part ($280 reman) and it's not prudent to replace it unless you are sure that the sensor really is bad.