I missed a gear and may have blown my motor
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,416
From: Madison, WI
I missed a gear and may have blown my motor
95 5Spd 140K
Cliffs:
I went from the top of 3rd into 2nd for a split second, the car seemed fine on the way to work and leaving work then just died while driving and now it won't start. There no external fluid leaks.
When it happened, I went to fifth, slowly cruised, I didn't hear anything wierd at all. I believe the oil light came on a minute or two after it happened. I HAD to get to work and the car seemed fine so I drove there. I watched the temp gauge and it didn't move at all. I parked, the car idled fine and everything seemed the same but I thought I heard a little more ticking than usual. No leaks anywhere I can see. I get off work 8 hours later, check the fluids, they seem fine. I start the car, It starts right up! nothing unusual. I check the fluid levels again, everything seems fine. I took it really easy on the car leaving 3000rpm max, cruise fine on the beltline. I signal to for my exit, push in the clutch and the car dies, It kinda barely restarts, after cranking 4-5 seconds and I slowly release the clutch and the second the engine feels load it dies. I tried to restart 2 times I would "putt" a few times right after I stoped cranking and then die. It's definatly getting gas and I'm sure it's flooded. My battery is charging now..
Codes:
Cyl. 3 misfire
Camshaft pos
KS
Red oil light is on.
It's obviously not as bad as it could be, I bet I could get this thing running but it's in bad shape as it is. The previous owner didn't take good care of the car. The entire outside was terrible so I can't imagine the engine neglect. Let's say I bent a valve in cyl 3 so it's not compressing. Does that sound right? how can It drive completely fine for 30 minutes then just not work? Would 1 useless cylinder cause the engine not to start?
Cliffs:
I went from the top of 3rd into 2nd for a split second, the car seemed fine on the way to work and leaving work then just died while driving and now it won't start. There no external fluid leaks.
When it happened, I went to fifth, slowly cruised, I didn't hear anything wierd at all. I believe the oil light came on a minute or two after it happened. I HAD to get to work and the car seemed fine so I drove there. I watched the temp gauge and it didn't move at all. I parked, the car idled fine and everything seemed the same but I thought I heard a little more ticking than usual. No leaks anywhere I can see. I get off work 8 hours later, check the fluids, they seem fine. I start the car, It starts right up! nothing unusual. I check the fluid levels again, everything seems fine. I took it really easy on the car leaving 3000rpm max, cruise fine on the beltline. I signal to for my exit, push in the clutch and the car dies, It kinda barely restarts, after cranking 4-5 seconds and I slowly release the clutch and the second the engine feels load it dies. I tried to restart 2 times I would "putt" a few times right after I stoped cranking and then die. It's definatly getting gas and I'm sure it's flooded. My battery is charging now..
Codes:
Cyl. 3 misfire
Camshaft pos
KS
Red oil light is on.
It's obviously not as bad as it could be, I bet I could get this thing running but it's in bad shape as it is. The previous owner didn't take good care of the car. The entire outside was terrible so I can't imagine the engine neglect. Let's say I bent a valve in cyl 3 so it's not compressing. Does that sound right? how can It drive completely fine for 30 minutes then just not work? Would 1 useless cylinder cause the engine not to start?
well you might have overspun your oil pump (heard of that happening, dont know anything about it though), ive seen people take their VQ's up to 11000 and only screw the oil pump, but who knows, every engine is different.
it wouldnt, but your getting a code for it, plus your car is not starting/hard time starting.
Test it with a multi-meter, and clean the sensor off. Reset ecu and see if the code comes back in a few days.
if it does, then replacement would be the next step.
ninja edit: well the cam sensor is to determine TDC for when cranking, the over revving must have done something if you werent throwing a code for the cam sensor, then after the incident it is.
Test it with a multi-meter, and clean the sensor off. Reset ecu and see if the code comes back in a few days.
if it does, then replacement would be the next step.
ninja edit: well the cam sensor is to determine TDC for when cranking, the over revving must have done something if you werent throwing a code for the cam sensor, then after the incident it is.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,416
From: Madison, WI
Originally Posted by MDeezy
it wouldnt, but your getting a code for it, plus your car is not starting/hard time starting.
Test it with a multi-meter, and clean the sensor off. Reset ecu and see if the code comes back in a few days.
if it does, then replacement would be the next step.
ninja edit: well the cam sensor is to determine TDC for when cranking, the over revving must have done something if you werent throwing a code for the cam sensor, then after the incident it is.
Test it with a multi-meter, and clean the sensor off. Reset ecu and see if the code comes back in a few days.
if it does, then replacement would be the next step.
ninja edit: well the cam sensor is to determine TDC for when cranking, the over revving must have done something if you werent throwing a code for the cam sensor, then after the incident it is.
Damn man i did this about 2 weeks ago top of 3rd 100MPh into 2nd gear. 8600rpm.
She was has been fine since and I have been getting on her since. Sorry to hear that man.
My can has 132k on it.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=446316
She was has been fine since and I have been getting on her since. Sorry to hear that man.
My can has 132k on it.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=446316
Originally Posted by Tyrexx
Guys the car does NOT start, It can't drive
Other things that prevent the car from starting as it should are crank pos sensors and coolant temp sensor. You could also check the starter which I doubt is the problem and the ignition switch.
You seem to be a very close minded for someone that can't even put the car in the right gear
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,416
From: Madison, WI
Originally Posted by Batxel
If the car does not start you replace or diagnose the things that prevent it from starting believe it or not the cam sensor can prevent the car from starting!
Other things that prevent the car from starting as it should are crank pos sensors and coolant temp sensor. You could also check the starter which I doubt is the problem and the ignition switch.
You seem to be a very close minded for someone that can't even put the car in the right gear
Other things that prevent the car from starting as it should are crank pos sensors and coolant temp sensor. You could also check the starter which I doubt is the problem and the ignition switch.
You seem to be a very close minded for someone that can't even put the car in the right gear

Originally Posted by MDeezy
ninja edit: well the cam sensor is to determine TDC for when cranking, the over revving must have done something if you werent throwing a code for the cam sensor, then after the incident it is.
By driving the car with the oil light on you probably did more damage to the motor than the over-rev did.
BTW, don't post again until you do a compression test. We can only do so much to help.

BTW, don't post again until you do a compression test. We can only do so much to help.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,416
From: Madison, WI
All my posts were made within 24 hours of eachother, I wanted to get a few opinions before doing anything. I still have to work I can't stop my life because of this, give me a break.
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sctludwig
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
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Sep 1, 2022 01:32 PM




and prove that it doesn't have compression in a cyl, then stop being a paranoid
