Aite, i dont post much cause i would rather read the stickies or posts, but that is how i got to the present situation. I 've had the idle problem for about a year and done alot to combat the problem:
Cleaned the IAC
Cleaned the TB
Cleaned the IM
Replaced the ECT
New alternator
Regreased the starter
New NGk platinums
New Ks
New Pcv
Tested resistance of the coils (which one was a little low)
Tested the injectors (all seemed ok)

And alot of other stuff but found that i couldnt get the idle up, she runs fine when cold but when she warms up she runs like $hit, so yesterday i decide to try again, i tried pulling ghost codes, no codes, but remembered my car was running fine last nite with the a/c on which i thought was super odd since the ac puts a load on the car? So i turned the ac on and the RPM's jumped from 500 to 700 (in drive) so i wondered if i just had to turn on the a/c all the time to get the idle up? Long story short i used the ecm (which i did and still do not want to do) to turn up the idle, and have her setting at a steady 700. Is this bad i dont like doing it but it makes the car run so much better not just idleing but driving as well, more low end, not downshifting or searching for gears as much. Please give N E feedback, is this a good idea cause i dont like it.
Thanx n advance guys

 

Also, what about the:
- TPS - throttle position sensor
- PCV valve? - <$5
- FI cleaner?
- Getting the FI's cleaned? (high pressure system)
- Follow procedure to increase RPMs on IACV?

The only other option would be to get a 2006 ;-)

 

He already did the PCV.

Did you miss the obvious... i.e. trying to adjust the idle with the screw on top of the IACV?

By saying "you used the ECM" do you mean you used the ECU screw to adjust the idle... if yes, then go turn that back all the way counter-clockwise and follow the instructions in the stickies to adjust your idle using the screw on the IACV.

The slight jump in idle when you turn on the AC is normal.

 

appreciate the reply petemo, i have replaced the pcv i have used RXP injector cleaner like 7 times to nothing, i have tried the fast idle cam adjustment but nothing. I think im gonna just buy 6 new coils and go from there, i have tried to reset the TPS but could never get the O/D light to blink as per the FSM so thanx and any other input would be much appreciated!
thanx guys

 

bro u have a 99 coil problems..

 

are you losing any coolant ? Hows your coolant level. If your idle is still rough u may have a blown head gasket, Does your oil or coolant look like they mixed ?

 

^^ Do what njmodi said. also, that coil pack that is a little low, how low?

 

Pretty sure just changing the TPS will fix it, but if you havent replaced your coils, thats also a possibility even though they tested out okay

 

I was wondering wut yall thought of the a/c keeping the idle up and adjustin tha idle at tha ecm? think the a/c thing is due to vacuum leak? I have no oil in my coolant or vice versa as per my father being insitant on changin the coolant every year. And i wanna say the coil was lik 427 and it was suppossed to ohm out at 440 not much. I guess next step is tps and new coils.
ill post back with results
much appreciate the input guys

 

if your car does not hesitate or misfire I don't think it would be coils.

 

usually when the tps goes bad the idle fluctuates up and down. Did you turn the screw on the iac valve to increase the idle? If not I would try that

 

Check the MAF also.

Here is a quick way to check the MAF sensor:

1. Engine warm, A/C off, tranny in neutral, no load.
2. Stick a pin in the white wire on the MAF sensor.
3. Hook up a DVM to this pin and ground.
4. At idle voltage should be 1.0-1.7V
5. At 2500RPM should be 1.5-2.1V

If voltage is lower or higher than these values, the MAF is no good.