I have Mobil 1 Short Filter and it's Blue. It's pretty short so I think by doing this will save some money by relocating the Filter

 

Every week!!! I wish I have that much time. I use Mobil1 Supersyn motor oil and change my oil every 7k miles. That's why I use the extended life oil filter. I don't think the short kind will work for me.

BTW, can anyone recommend a filter relocation kit? Not sure how to figure out the spin-on filter thread size on my Max.

 

Heres a Start but they don't come Cheap

http://www.projectnissan.com/shoppin...idCategory=119

 

$193.50 for a Greddy kit with pretty little billet fittings and steel-braided hoses??? Damn!!

Would this work?? http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...relocation+kit

 

Send me a PM.

I've been REALLY busy but I sent you a PM with your tracking number.

Zero-K's write up is pretty much right on and like I said there are some variations from car to car depending on a ton of factors (mostly what tires, wheels and suspension you're riding on).

The rest of the third batch has been sent out. Thanks to everyone. Things haven't been going anywhere near as fast as I'd hope but it's as fast as it could go considering the amount of hours a week I work now (and probably for the rest of the summer).

 

I think a relocation kit is still going to cause a bit of a rubbing issue. The lines on those adapters come straight off the unit. You could swap out the straight fittings for some 90 degree elbows and bring it forward if you have no AC.

 

I can probably go with elbow fittings and route the hoses up and maybe mount the oil filter somewhere near the passengerside strut tower. I'm gonna have to figure this out. BTW, my car has a/c.

 

Alright lets stop whoring up the Traction Bar thread because the issue now is we need an oil filter relocation kit, lol. Here ya go

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=472058

 

That is why I started a new thread the other night. But the mod, took it out and consolidated the info in it into this thread.

 

Just put my traction bars in. I modified a few things. First, i put rubber o-rings on either side of the eyelets. The o-rings act as a bushing at the eyelet because I noticed that the bar could move and outer part of the eyelet hit the washer. This also helped out the with the clearance issue on the control arm side of the bar. I also added a washers all over the place. On the side with the oil filter, I added 2 washers on the inside of the plate so the plate was not flush against the frame (2 spacers on each of the 3 bolts). Also, I added a 2 washeron the outside of the plate where I mounted the oil filter side bar (bar on outsie of plate). This seems to work. Haven't had any problems yet. Alignment, (caster, toe, and camber) are all correct. Will check tomorrow for any loose bolts and check on any weird noises. So far so good though.

 

Is the inner sidewall of the passenger-side tire rubbing with the bar at full lock turn to the left? What's the width of your tire?

 

Any Pics? Plus Dr. Max you probably can use some Poly Bushings on those Stabilier Links they make a huge Difference in Noise factor better ride

 

I agree, they're pretty much worn out. I'm going to get a set of ES bushings and replace all that.

 

havent recieved my bars yet..... whats up?

 

To those who have installed these, do I have to remove the inner plastic fender cover on the passenger side where the oil filter is? I don't want to take it out b/c it protects the belt.

 

Update: I was able to get the passenger side bar to fit by using three washers to space off of the bracket, two to space up from the control arm, and by using my 3/4" pipe bender to put a nice 15 degree bend allowing the bar to easily curve around the oil filter w/o removing the plastic.

I still need an alignment and some sttering rack work done before I will be able to test these on the road.

 

Got pics? I have yet to bend the bar on the passengerside of my car as well.

 

Would this or this work to bend these bars? If I can do the job for $6.99 I'd definitely do it for my peace of mind.

 

If they're moly there is no way your bending them with that. If its mild steel I'd say it could be done with some grunting without one of those things. But Bending them will shorten the effective length. That would require a lot of thread on the rod ends to make up for the bar being shorter.

 

Good point, Broan. It sounds like those who've bent haven't had length problems but that's something to keep in mind. Hey, do you have access to anything that will bend a steel pipe?

 

Very good point Broaner. I can totally envision that happening but as JeremysBlkMax97 brought up, a 15 degree bend should be enough to clear the oil filter without shortening the effective length of the bar as much.

 

I'm guessing it could be bent by hand Tom. With some careful placement of bending posts I think it could be done. How thick are the walls on them? If not by hand I think some heat persuasion could do the trick.

 

Well, a cheap conduit bender worked for me on the first release of the Jbars. Both sides now clear - both the K&N oil filter and the automatic transmission.

The Jbars have been on my car since last season - when JClaw's first batch were sold.....

 

I am an electrician, so I have a real 3/4 bender for conduit http://www.twacomm.com/catalog/model...101A14B857E71F. 1/2 inch bender is too small, nust be 3/4. I think that the plumbing one might not be strong enough, and sorry guys, but I didn't take any pics, but all you have to do is mock up where the bar will sit and mark where the center of the oil filter is. This is where I bent the bar, and now it just hooks around the oil filter. Be careful though, as too much bend will definitely rub on the tire on full left turn.

 

Money sent! Can't wait to get these.

JP

 

I wonder if I can rent this at homedepot???

 

Did you perform any test on a 5th gen ? I might be interested in being a guinea pig.

AA

 

I haven't. The real problem on 5th gens is the way the control arm is made. A while back I went to the dealership and compared a 95 lower control arm to a 00 lower control arm. There is a big hole/buldge that's quite strong on the 4th gen LCA and that's what I use to attach the bar. On 5th gen there is a hole but it's much smaller and the shape of the arm is flat. This makes it much weaker an attachment point than it is on the 4th gen.

The only real option (IMO) for 5th gens is probably the first design I thought up a year back; the bar is shorter and a bracket is welded directly to the front of the control arm. I dropped the idea because it would require a) welding to install b) having the bracket at the EXACT conceived attachment point, which would probably end up varying from vehicle to vehicle depending on installation, and most importantly, varying from left to right, which could be bad (i.e not having the same frame-to-control arm angle from driver to passenger side). You want the geometry to be the same for both sides. With the holes (i.e 4th gen) there is less variation.

 

I sent you a PM.

 

Here's a small preview for you guys about what Im doing to solve the oil filter issue...

http://oem.thepartsbin.com/parts/the...ousing&dp=true

It is installed in my car, it is working fine. But I had to get 2 45* fittings from Ace Hardware. Everything seals fine except for those two fittings that have very small leaks (in other words, no good). Also at 45* angle coming out of the adapter one line gets driven right into the traction bar. Im convinced that 90* fittings would solve that problem. I already have pictures but I will start a new thread with them once I am certain this thing works

 

I was just gonna bring this thread back..... I installed my bars yesterday and am extremely pleased. Fitment is perfect, no oil filter issues, and no wheel hop - great product. Thanks so much JClaw. Im wondering if its all the 95-96 guys that are having the clearance issues bc mines perfect being a 98 and believe it or not there are lots of small differences between the 95-96's and the rest of the 4th gens. Ive done alot of the same mods on my 98 and my friends' 95 and 96 to realize that while its the same basic car, Nissan did make quite a few minor changes starting in 97.

 

I really don't think anything significant changed between 4.0 and 4.5 gens, especially in the engine bay. But who knows, there are a lot of little emissions differences so maybe the oil filter location changed slightly or something. I would be surprised if the control arms and subframe weren't identical from 95-99.

How much clearance do you have?

 

I believe mine hits because I am using an extended life oil filter which seems to be a little taller than the regular filter. Next oil change, I'm going back to the regular Mobile1 oil filter.

 

Finally got around to installing my traction bars. One of the ends of one of my bars wouldn't accept the threaded turnbuckle past a certain point without a lot of cranking and leverage, bit of a pain. And I haven't finished the install because it's clear that I need some washers for the front connection (otherwise the bar hits the edge of the metal plate). Anyone know the right size washer offhand?

Also, I've got a standard size oil filter and it looks like it's going to be very very close to the bar. The washers should help but does anyone know if the Mobil1 filter is shorter than the standard OEM filter? And how short is the "short OEM filter" and what is the part number?

 

I ran into the same problem as you with the plate. At first I just installed the bars on the inside of the plate.. but then that filter became a victim of the bar, lol. So the next weekend I mounted the bars on the outside like you're supposed to but I used a nut to space it out so it doesnt run into the plate.

With the bar like this, it still hit the oil filter but barely at the edge. It just made a crease.

 

As promised, oil filter remote mount kit a success. Yes bending the bars might be easier, but hey its just another option for us. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....45#post5027745

 

I did that too but the right tire was hitting the bar at near-full left turn. So I ended up using 3 washers instead which spaced out the bar from the plate but not as much as with using the nut. Unfortunately, the tire still hits a tad but not as bad as before.

I want to try bending the bar first and try bolting the bar on the inner side of the plate to eliminate the tire-rubbing issue once and for all. However, I have had no luck locating a pipe bender. The local home depot doesn't carry them so now I have to find a plumbing supply. I'm not interested in buying the bender online as I plan to get one locally, use it once, and return it since I won't have any use for it again.

 

you could be right, i just know that ive run into several minor differences between these years. I have about 3/4"-1" clearance between the bar and the filter (K&N filter).

 

You have that much clearance with the car on the ground???

You guys whose tires are hitting the bar when the wheels are turned, what size rims/tires and offset are you running? I have 8 inch wide wheels with a 40mm offset and it looks like they're definitely going to hit the bar on sharp turns. I like my turning radius, but I guess you only really need it for parking lots and such....

As far as bending the bar, I'm planning on doing it at a buddy's house without tools. He has an old pickup truck rusting next to his garage (LOL) and he says he bends metal pipes and other parts all the time on the trailer hitch ball thing. I think the truck has two of those ***** right next to each other so you can wedge the bar between them and bend with your bare hands. The traction bar is probably long enough to get enough leverage; if not you can put a jack handle bar around the end for an extra two feet or so.

 

I have the same wheel width, not sure what the offset is but they are Rota Subzeros 17x8.