Amps and Gas Mileage
#1
Hey I was wondering, I just installed a four channel amp in my 97 Maxima.... (For those interested Clarion 4 channel amp running 2 MB Quart 6x9's and a Kicker 12)
Anyway, I was wondering if an Amp affects you Gas Mileage. I know it seems stupid but it seems like my car doesn't have as much pick up and it seems like it doesnt get as many MPG. Maybe just a thought cause it's only been installed a day... but just wondering.
Let me know.... Thanks
- Mike
Oh yeah, I was kinda proud of myself. I did it myself... And I'll tell ya, what a b**** to install a line converter.
Anyway, I was wondering if an Amp affects you Gas Mileage. I know it seems stupid but it seems like my car doesn't have as much pick up and it seems like it doesnt get as many MPG. Maybe just a thought cause it's only been installed a day... but just wondering.
Let me know.... Thanks
- Mike
Oh yeah, I was kinda proud of myself. I did it myself... And I'll tell ya, what a b**** to install a line converter.
#2
Complete myth
That's completely baloney! I don't think the electronic has anything to do with your mechanical. I got 2 amps: a 4 channel and a 2 channel RF and nothing on my MPG. Sometime it even better depend on the way i drive If you concern then get the capacitor.
#3
Re: Complete myth
Originally posted by CharlieT
That's completely baloney! I don't think the electronic has anything to do with your mechanical. I got 2 amps: a 4 channel and a 2 channel RF and nothing on my MPG. Sometime it even better depend on the way i drive If you concern then get the capacitor.
That's completely baloney! I don't think the electronic has anything to do with your mechanical. I got 2 amps: a 4 channel and a 2 channel RF and nothing on my MPG. Sometime it even better depend on the way i drive If you concern then get the capacitor.
K
#5
There is no free lunch
Originally posted by MJM97MAXSE
... Anyway, I was wondering if an Amp affects you Gas Mileage. ...
... Anyway, I was wondering if an Amp affects you Gas Mileage. ...
The article quotes Michael Matouka, staff development engineer for General Motors' Electrical Center. Matouka points out that "power is not free" and says every additional 350 watts used by the vehicle results in a loss of about one MPG of fuel economy.
You may read the full text of this article at http://www.manufacturing.net/magazin.../feature3.html
#6
Originally posted by CharlieT
.... I don't think the electronic has anything to do with your mechanical. ...
.... I don't think the electronic has anything to do with your mechanical. ...
Every bit of energy your car uses came from one place: the fuel tank. If you do anything to use more energy (faster acceleration, brighter headlights, louder audio, etc.) the energy to do that came from burning more gasoline.
#7
If you have ever seen a LOUD system you can see when they Hit a LOW note. ALL the lights DIMM. For this reason people get two Amps and CAPs.
It takes allot of power to hit those LOUD LOW notes. Most Amps when they do this take away from the high notes, so that is why some get 2 amps ONE just for the LOWs...
Where does this power come from? ALT
What powers your ALT? Motor
What Powers your Motor? GAS
How much very MINIMAL but yes it is linked together..!
It takes allot of power to hit those LOUD LOW notes. Most Amps when they do this take away from the high notes, so that is why some get 2 amps ONE just for the LOWs...
Where does this power come from? ALT
What powers your ALT? Motor
What Powers your Motor? GAS
How much very MINIMAL but yes it is linked together..!
#8
Question for the ones who know.
What would cause the lights not to dim, under high power?
My total system is putting out close to 1000 watts, between 2 amps. I don't have any problems at all with dimming. A lot of my friends get ****ed, because it looks like their car is winking at people.
What would cause the lights not to dim, under high power?
My total system is putting out close to 1000 watts, between 2 amps. I don't have any problems at all with dimming. A lot of my friends get ****ed, because it looks like their car is winking at people.
#9
What Kind of AMPS do they have?
If they have PPI Amps they will make any car DIMM. They are BIG on power. In order to make the Subs hit the Low note at High Volumes that takes allot of power. Best bet is a 1 Farad Capacitor or a Second Battery for the trunk.
If they have PPI Amps they will make any car DIMM. They are BIG on power. In order to make the Subs hit the Low note at High Volumes that takes allot of power. Best bet is a 1 Farad Capacitor or a Second Battery for the trunk.
Originally posted by DARTHSWAN
Question for the ones who know.
Question for the ones who know.
#10
I have a RF Punch 200 (95' model) and Punch 240 (96' model). The Punch 200 is on the subs. I get more than enough bass from that amp, and I still have room to go higher on the gains. I guess it has a lot to do with the current draw.
K
K
#11
from my little conversion program:
1 kilowatt = 1.341022 horsepower
1 kilowatt = 3415.179 BTU/hour
1 gal. gasoline = 119,800 BTU
So, at 25 mpg, you consume 4792 BTU/mile.
So, if you have 2-500watt amps (100w or 1KW) you consume 3415 BTU's or .71 mpg. With losses due to electrical resistance, energy conversion, friction, etc. you could probably double that.
1 kilowatt = 1.341022 horsepower
1 kilowatt = 3415.179 BTU/hour
1 gal. gasoline = 119,800 BTU
So, at 25 mpg, you consume 4792 BTU/mile.
So, if you have 2-500watt amps (100w or 1KW) you consume 3415 BTU's or .71 mpg. With losses due to electrical resistance, energy conversion, friction, etc. you could probably double that.
#12
Originally posted by sinewave
from my little conversion program:
1 kilowatt = 1.341022 horsepower
1 kilowatt = 3415.179 BTU/hour
1 gal. gasoline = 119,800 BTU
So, at 25 mpg, you consume 4792 BTU/mile.
So, if you have 2-500watt amps (100w or 1KW) you consume 3415 BTU's or .71 mpg. With losses due to electrical resistance, energy conversion, friction, etc. you could probably double that.
from my little conversion program:
1 kilowatt = 1.341022 horsepower
1 kilowatt = 3415.179 BTU/hour
1 gal. gasoline = 119,800 BTU
So, at 25 mpg, you consume 4792 BTU/mile.
So, if you have 2-500watt amps (100w or 1KW) you consume 3415 BTU's or .71 mpg. With losses due to electrical resistance, energy conversion, friction, etc. you could probably double that.
#13
Those figures are from a little shareware program called "Convert" ver. 4.02. Unfortunately, the link in the help file doesn't work.
Your number is pretty close to mine; the invert of 1.341022hp is 0.745699921 KW or 745.7 watts.
Your number is pretty close to mine; the invert of 1.341022hp is 0.745699921 KW or 745.7 watts.
#14
Originally posted by sinewave
Those figures are from a little shareware program called "Convert" ver. 4.02. Unfortunately, the link in the help file doesn't work.
Your number is pretty close to mine; the invert of 1.341022hp is 0.745699921 KW or 745.7 watts.
Those figures are from a little shareware program called "Convert" ver. 4.02. Unfortunately, the link in the help file doesn't work.
Your number is pretty close to mine; the invert of 1.341022hp is 0.745699921 KW or 745.7 watts.
Pay me no mind, I did my conversion and saw that. Long day at work, time to go home.
#15
temperature variances and automatic transmissions probably have more to do with power and mileage losses than big stereos --
But big power does have an effect --
A 750watt class A amp is about 20-25% efficient --
So therefore it takes about 4-5HP to drive it assuming the power amp supply is not being continuously "assisted" by a large capacitor -- but it is still at least a few continuous HP worth of energy --
The lower your RPMs, the more torque is required to make that horsepower to drive your accessories --
If you assume you need about 30HP to maintain a constant cruise at 55MPH, you can start to see how much that 2HP
starts to make a bigger difference in economy
But big power does have an effect --
A 750watt class A amp is about 20-25% efficient --
So therefore it takes about 4-5HP to drive it assuming the power amp supply is not being continuously "assisted" by a large capacitor -- but it is still at least a few continuous HP worth of energy --
The lower your RPMs, the more torque is required to make that horsepower to drive your accessories --
If you assume you need about 30HP to maintain a constant cruise at 55MPH, you can start to see how much that 2HP
starts to make a bigger difference in economy
#16
Re: Re: Complete myth
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Murphy_TX_Mike
[B]
Probably a myth, but it could prove to be true.
If the alternator has to work longer to keep the battery charged, regardless of a capacitor or not, then the mileage will be reduced. How much, probably not much.
True...true...I agree as well but the main point I was trying to make is the quantity of it which is not much. That's why the lights of some car go dimm everytime the system it low note. It better to have a CAP a maybe a stronger battery.
[B]
Probably a myth, but it could prove to be true.
If the alternator has to work longer to keep the battery charged, regardless of a capacitor or not, then the mileage will be reduced. How much, probably not much.
True...true...I agree as well but the main point I was trying to make is the quantity of it which is not much. That's why the lights of some car go dimm everytime the system it low note. It better to have a CAP a maybe a stronger battery.
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