Every single stock bolt on this damn maxima is rusted. Every single one breaks off at the head when I attempt to unscrew it. I can't get a single thing complete without running into a rusted bolt that I have to soak and soak and soak in PBlaster or WD40. My front fender looks like swiss cheese after trying to pull the plastic cover panels and have EVERY SINGLE BOLT rip the plastic apart because it was rusted solid to the retaining clip.

I just had a burnt out fog light. So I figured I'd take the opportunity to try to buff the scratches and nicks out of the lenses. Right off the bat, one bolt shears completely off and when I try to take the bracket out to drill out and retap the hole, the first bolt I undo shears off. One of the tabs from the other side broke completely off and epoxying it didn't help - that took oh like 5 seconds to break back off. I know foglights are virtually pointless but I thought I could make them a little bit better but now, they're officially just for show now.

UGHGHGPOIUIHRG:Oijewr;ofijhwe;oiuhawrefl;.:nupe500 :

 

When I replaced my rear struts, the nuts were rusted hell. I couldn't even get it off. It just kept stripping. I took a dremel to it and cut it off since new struts were going in anyway. But I know what you mean. The stock y-pipe also wasn't very fun to take out either. It was quicker getting the new one in than taking the old one out.

 

You guys arn't the only ones with these types of problem. I hate it especially when the nut you broke off is like one of the important ones. Take your time and do your best. Take a dermal if you have to.

 

Thats the killer.

Nothing like working on your girlfriends brakes and your almost done, then one caliper bolt is stuck and wont budge no matter what!

Best method, when starting a job, soak all bolts and have atleast a 3 foot brake bar + deep sockets if you know you may have some trouble some bolts. . . or Air tools.

 

Agreed, liquid wrench and a break-over bar FTW..

 

I'm down to one out of three bolts holding down the bottom air filter box because they broke. I'd like to buy a whole box of those 10mm bolts. Anyone know where these same bolts can be found brand new?

 

dealership. . .

Or try a junk yard, tell them you just need one screw, and if they can let you have it. They maybe nice people and say sure go ahead.

 

welcome to the north east! the problem is that the tip of the screw gets rusted and once you back it out it gets stuck and breaks. my fogs did the same crap. same with the splash guards. i have like 89239823 of those 10mm screws saved up. once you get them out and ready to replace them use anti seize on the threads. that should help for next time around.

 

North East=Snow=Salt=Rust. It's going to happen. Do what I did buy a $300.oo $hit box for Winter.

 

Never had a really important bolt break off during removal (besides a few bolts on the trans pan of an old supercharged Buick Regal GS), but a friend in my class was putting a Grand Prix (or something, same chassis and 3800, but different make/model) engine back together and on the rocker arms he misread the torque specs.

Long story short, bolts that are made for 32 in/lbs will not well hold up to 32 ft/lbs. He got 4 torqued down to that spec and then one snapped off. Drilling out and retapping that hole was a *****, metal filings everywhere.

We all triple-check torque specs and type (nM/ft lbs/in lbs) now.

 

I don't have any on mine, its only held on by the four clips on top. Been running it this way for about a year. It doesn't rattle a bit and makes it incredible easy to remove the intake

 

another reason why i love socal weather.. rust? what's that?

 

I discovered some stuff that's awesome in penetrating rusted bolts and nuts. .. It's called aero kroil or kroil oil... This is really hard to find though i think its just for industrial use but if u get a can hang on to it... I even used it to clean out an old metal gas line.......worked when 125psi of air would'nt even clean it out..

 

I discovered some stuff that's awesome in penetrating rusted bolts and nuts. .. It's called aero kroil or kroil oil... This is really hard to find though i think its just for industrial use but if u get a can hang on to it... I even used it to clean out an old metal gas line.......worked when 125psi of air would'nt even clean it out..

 

How is a winter beater going to do anything to help bolts on a car that have already been rusting for the past 7-11 years?

 

So you don't have any westerly blowing winds carrying salty air from the ocean to worry about? When I was out in San Diego my last time a few years ago I saw plenty of rust buckets.

EXACTLY.

 

not me...

 

As long as there are no parts around to be damaged by the heat, a propane torch is your best friend for removing rusty nuts and bolts.

I have split the walls out of several 1/2" drive sockets trying to remove the bolts holding the torque plate to the steering knuckle on other vehicles. Thirty seconds of heat from a torch and they break free easily with no breaker bar required.

 

I dont think my problem is really rust, I just have large problems with screws on my max, screws that have round tipcs and I cant use sockets on them. screw after screw...the top just melts under the screw driver until its just impossible to get the screw out.
Rust isnt part of houston...
Anyone else with this problem?