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New Clunk/Pop after installing new suspension...

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Old 05-11-2006, 05:11 AM
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KaZ
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New Clunk/Pop after installing new suspension...

Ok... so I did a HUGE suspension/drivetrain upgrade...

AGX Shocks
H&R Springs
KYB Mounts/Strut Bearings/Boots
LCAs & ES Bushings
Tie Rod Ends
Sway Bar Bushings
Sway Bar Endlinks
RAxles CV Axles
Brakes
Wheels & Tires

I did pretty much EVERYTHING... I torque EVERYTHING to spec according to the factory service manual using an electric SnapOn torque wrench...

Unfortunately... whenever I change from backing up to moving forward... and normally with turning the wheel back and forth (i.e. I'm backing out of my driveway and turn the wheel left, then stop, turning the wheel right and proceeding forward) I occasionally hear a pop or clunk mometarily...

I've rechecked the axle nuts... they're tight... I've rechecked the tierod ends... checked the brakes, checked everything... but I still CANNOT find the noise.

Also, when I'm backing up, there sounds to be a clicking noise... only when I'm backing up... =/

On a side note... noticed something worth mentioning... Anyone considering DIMPLED rotors... (this isn't a bad note, just an FYI note). Due to the design, the Dimples cause for a unique noise while driving... basically, as the rotors spin, the dimples create pockets that capture air... well this causes for light little popping noises... popping is really too strong a word... just can't think of anything else... it almost sounds like you have a small stone stuck in the tire tread, sort of like that... anyway, when you have drilled rotors, the trapped air is just pushed into the center of the rotor, but with the dimples, there is no where for it to go, so it makes an audible noise which also increases in level when you push on the brakes... I thought there might have been something wrong, but through trial and error, I figure out it was just a normal sound with the dimpled rotors. And its NOT loud... you really only hear it when you're really close next to a curb and you can hear the sound reflect off the curb... its actually quieter than the tire noise to be honest...

Anyway, thanks for reading the post about the noise... any assistance would be appreciated.
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Old 05-11-2006, 05:18 AM
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I had a loose stabilizer bar link up front, made a nice cluck cluck when I backed out of my driveway. not sure if you replaced em, but take a look at the ball joint if you didn't, I replaced mine ($30 from dealership) on both sides and now its all good.

side note . . . autocross kills stabilizer bar links
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Old 05-11-2006, 05:25 AM
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KaZ
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Originally Posted by NookieMax
I had a loose stabilizer bar link up front, made a nice cluck cluck when I backed out of my driveway. not sure if you replaced em, but take a look at the ball joint if you didn't, I replaced mine ($30 from dealership) on both sides and now its all good.

side note . . . autocross kills stabilizer bar links
Check #7 in my list o' stuff I replaced...

Sway Bar Endlink...

But thanks...

I did have mine fail a while back... I did have that noise... but it sounds higher this time around... I'm almost thinking its something with the suspension tower assembly... but I moved everything over... rubber seat, spring bits that were around the top most and bottom most ring of the springs... everything...

Is there any chance that having the top most seat (the metal bit on top of the rubber seat) being off a hair could cause it?? It was all aligned correctly as per the service manual... but I'm at a loss as to what is causing the clunk.
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Old 05-11-2006, 08:17 AM
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I've heard those KYB mounts are not really that good. If it's not seated properly that could cause a problem. Their life span is supposedly pretty crappy.

Also alot of times it will make noise until everything is settled in, so that might be a possibility.

FInally did you use spring isolators? If not the springs are going to make quite a bit of noise.
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Old 05-11-2006, 08:38 AM
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Make sure the strut mount/bearing plate is installed properly. I believe the word "out" should be stamped on one side. If this is in the wrong position, a clunking sound will result. I had to re-compress my springs and adjust one of them on my car.
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Old 05-11-2006, 09:46 AM
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did you know you dont need a spring compresser when installing lowering sperings and shocks.. only to take apart the original shock assembly its needed... (learned this few weeks ago the mechanic and i were sSHOCKED)

ahh the mount bearing could be a problem if hte sound comes when turning the steering...
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Old 05-11-2006, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by nismos14
I've heard those KYB mounts are not really that good. If it's not seated properly that could cause a problem. Their life span is supposedly pretty crappy.

Also alot of times it will make noise until everything is settled in, so that might be a possibility.

FInally did you use spring isolators? If not the springs are going to make quite a bit of noise.
I agree..I had this clunk clunk noise while I was turning the steering wheel from left to right..My mechanic used KYB strut mounts for replacement..however the noise still remained. I had to order mine from Nissan and the noise finally went away.
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Old 05-11-2006, 10:30 AM
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I did reuse the isolators... and I was fairly careful making sure I aligned everything correctly, but just to be sure, I'll pull that shock assembly off the car and makes sure everything is as is should be and see if I can't get things to stop making noise... its not abnoxious... and to be honest, it ONLY does it when I'm changing directions of movement, and turning the wheel (like I described before). I have no noise while under normal driving conditions (cornering, bumps, etc, no noise).

Thanks to all. I'll take a look over the weekend and post an update.
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Old 05-11-2006, 10:54 AM
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Is this the noise you are describing?.this is the noise I had.

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/703
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Old 05-11-2006, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by HomerMAC
did you know you dont need a spring compresser when installing lowering sperings and shocks.. only to take apart the original shock assembly its needed... (learned this few weeks ago the mechanic and i were sSHOCKED)
not always, intrax are about the same length as stock. eibachs need to be compresses too.
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