I tilted the sunroof open and now it won't close. When I push the switch "close" nothing happens (not even a sound), when I hit it "open" I can hear the motor running (it does not tilt the roof any higher since it's already open). I called Nissan and they suggested that the switch may have gone bad (I had a liitle flood too on that day). Or can it be the motor? which one can it be?

thanks
Roman

 

This is an important clue. Just how little was this "little flood"?

 

It was not too big, but the switch was wet. It was wet before too (during the earlier incidents). I have now noticed that the rubber that goes around the glass has about a 1/10 of an inch gap where it meets, so I think that's where it leaks (should I use some silicone there??). The water has actually manifested itself inside dripping on the rear right seat (where the seat belt is) and the sunshade was wet as well. After I started driving it (probably moved around and) started to drip from where the ceiling meets the door on the front passanger side and from the switch itself. But nothing dripped from the left side (probably because the car was slightly tilted to the right while it was parked overnight during the rain).

Thanks

 

Any electrical part which got wet is suspect. I don't know of any shortcut to solve your problem. You have to test the switch and the motor and possibly the relay individually.

 

Switch or relay, whatever they use. If the motor makes a noise one direction it is probably not the motor. Check all you wiring, and harnesses first, I am not sure where the relay would be, maybe someone else can help out.

 

The sunroof relay is located behind the plastic kick panel just to the left of the driver's feet.

 

How would one go about testing this? Is there another way besides getting a new switch/relay and seeing if it'll work? Also, how accurate is the claim that if the motor is spinning one way, it's probably not the motor? My electrical expertise is minimal (as it is probably seen). I checked the prices at parts.com- switch is under $30, motor- over $300- quite a difference...

Thanks
Roman

 

The switch is Suspect Number One. Remove it from the vehicle and test it with an ohmmeter. General information is found in the Chilton repair manual (page 6-6) and the Haynes repair manual (page 12-2). Perhaps you can enlist the aid of a friend who is familiar with electronics.

 

If you don't have a volt-ohm meter, you can do a lot of circuit testing with a 12V probe. You can get them at just about any parts store or Wal-Mart. It looks something like a screwdriver, except it has a pointed end and has a wire with an allegator clip attached to the end of the handle. They sell for less than $10.

You attach the allegator clip to a good ground and then put the pointed end on a current carrying part. If the part (wire, connector, fuse, switch contact, etc.) has current, the test probe handle will light up.

Electrical circuits are sort of like plumbing. The battery is like a pump and the wires are like pipes. The switches are like valves and a motor is like a water turbine. If you get water pressure on the pump side of a valve but not on the return, you have to assume that either the valve is closed or it is broken. It's the same with an electrical switch.

For more basics on electricity, check out the link below. Hope this helps.
http://www.owlnet.rice.edu/~engi202/electricity.html

One more thing, since the switch got wet it may be something as simple as oxidation on the contacts. Spray some cleaner on it. NAPA sells an aerosol can of CRC Electronics Cleaner.

 

Roman-dude, I think you have 2 problems. First I think you have clogged drain lines which is causing the flooding. Check out my posts to Tim here:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hlight=sunroof

Second I have to agree with DBM. I think it's the switch too. There is a quick test you might be able to try depending on how the wires are attached to the switch itself. If you can determine which 2 leads go to the motor, swap them. That's all the switch is accomplishing. Since the motor goes one way. I think you'll find that it will run the other way just fine when you swap them (in a dc motor polarity determines direction of rotation). Assuming that it works when you swap the leads, that would mean that the switch is either shorted or in an open circuit condition. Assuming that the circuit is protected by a fuse (and I think it is pretty safe to assume that) most likely you've been experiencing flooding for a while and perhaps have suffered some corrosion on the switch which caused an open circuit condition (sort of like what sinewave was suggesting). The good thing about that is that most likely you can clean and re-attach any corroded parts and be on your way for little or no cost.

...BUT... don't silicone your roof. It is made to allow the water to come in and drain out the 4 drain tubes.

Well I've made a few assumptions, but I hope this helps.

 

3 more thoughts.

1) When checking out the fuse situation, look for more than one fuse to be burned out.

2) Second, When you swap leads, you need to make sure you are getting 12v and a good ground to eliminate relay/harness problems.

3) Third, You should have a manual crank that came with the car that allows you to close the roof in such circumstances. It looks sort of like a "z" shaped allen wrench about 6 or 7 inches long. When you pull down the lighting panel that exposes the motor assembly you should see a star or hex shaped socket (roughly 4-5mm). That is where the crank/wrench couples to the motor to hand crank it closed.

 

It's a little more complicated than that. If the ignition is on and the relay is working terminal 7 on the motor (yellow/red) has +12 volts at all times. When the switch is operated it completes a circuit by providing ground to one of four motor terminals:
#3 (green) for slide closed
#1 (yellow) for slide open
#6 (white) for tilt up
#4 (blue) for tilt down

 

Then I'd suggest 2 choices: 1) swap the blue and white (since it was a tilt issue) or 2)use 2 wires run directly from the battery (the better choice). The switch is merely serving the function of swaping the polarity to reverse the motor direction. The goal of this test is to answer his $300 question. If he can get the motor to spin in both directions it's probably not the motor. Also if the motor does reverse, then at least the roof is closed securing the car from theft or further water damage until the remainder of the troubleshooting is complete.

Thanks for the wiring info though. I was not near my FSM at the time of my reply and was too lazy to go get it.

 

would that be the power windows fuse? It's the only one that seems logical (to me)...
I did that. I also tried opening it and tilting up, as well as going back & forth (though I have not tried to really open it and stopped when it just started moving) and it worked. Not the tilting down part though...so, I guess it SHOULD be the switch since the motor is rolling in both directions. I'll take the switch out and will try to clean it tomorrow (though I am not yet sure if it comes apart, hopefully it does, though). I'll also try to clean the drains tomorrow since I have half a day off (!!!).

Thanks. Will let you know what happens tomorrow later.

PS Why would they make a hole in the roof so that the water could come in and later go down the drains??? I understand that the drains are needed in case of accidental floodings, but why go out of your way and make a hole for the water to go in? I don't seem to see sense in it...additionally (while I am not 100% sure now and will check) it seems that that hole is over the sunshade, so the water would not go to the drains but elsewhere.

Roman

 

Well, I used the hanger to clean the drains and the are fine now. As for the other problem, I took the switch apart and it was oxidated. Cleaned it, put it back together- works like new now.

Thanks a lot to all of you guys!

PS I still don't see a reason for them to leave the hole in the sunroof.. anybody??

Thanks again
Roman

 

Not sure but if I had to take a guess, I'd guess that it is too difficult to build a well sealed roof that lasts over time. So the smart designer would build a roof that controls and directs the water instead of inadequately trying to lock it out. Sort of like how many martial arts profess deflection of energy rather than stopping it dead in its tracks.

 

Yeah, I understand why the tracks are there for the accidental floodings, but leaving the hole intentionally? Using your analogy it would be as if a martial arts experts worked to increase the force coming at them so that they could deflect it later...
It really looks to me that since they knew that the water could go out should it get in they did not bother making it waterproof...
Roman