rikbakke

Holy 4th Gen, that was my first post? Very long time lurker I guess.

wirelessdude04

iTrader: (24)

gotta do this soon

styliztik

so I'm gonna do this this weekend. I don't own any jack stands, but can easily get them. can I get away with doing just one side at a time? or no? and if not, where do I put the jack stands? I don't want to put them somewhere that would F anything up.

pavelsmax

iTrader: (12)

Here is your jack points and jack stand locations. Ignore the circled muffler.



Always jack up the car and lower it on jack stands when working on it. Never leave it supported by the jack, a jack could fail at any time or be accidentally lowered.


As for doing each side at a time I'm unsure, however stands typically come in pairs so if purchasing them you will have the 2 needed anyway.

I purchased my jack and stands from http://www.harborfreight.com/ they have really competitive prices on lots of useful tools.

Don't forget to apply your ebrake and block your rear wheels for safety.

styliztik

I'm assuming I'm using the "Ben's Stand Points?"

mrglynis

I just did this on my car. I bought 2 Duralast kits from Autozone for $20/each. Living in the south, I didnt have any issues getting the old one off. I did use my impact though just to make it easier. I did the driver side in like 10 min.
Then I did the passenger side. I spent about 2 hrs trying to get that POS on. The problem was the locking nut on the shaft didnt stay locked. Which allowed the whole shaft to spin. Which made it impossible to tighten it down properly. I could get it tight, but it wasn't where it was supposed to be.
I searched on here and found a thread where someone had the exact same problem. Turns out its not a user error, its a bad part. So that person went back and got a different brand and it all worked out.
So I did the same thing. I returned the bad one and got a MOOG kit instead. (they didnt have another duralast in stock). Came home, and 10 min later everything was together.
Strangely the only difficult part was the grease fitting that screws into the back of it. I couldnt get that thing in there to save my life. I spent 20 min trying to put that one little piece in. I eventually just gave up. Anyone know if its a horrible thing if that little fitting isnt in there?

BenL

If you don't have the grease fitting in there and snug, you leave the joint readily exposed to contamination from dirt, dust, and water (which causes the joint to fail prematurely from rust and excess friction)... not to mention the trouble you're going to have just keeping the joint properly greased as it allows the grease to be forced back out through the hole for the fitting.

I typically install grease fittings before starting work on the car (when applicable), never had a single problem with them... but it also allows me to figure out any problems before starting, so in the event a fitting doesn't want to go in I can return the part before having wasted my time putting it on the car.

mrglynis

Thanks for the reply. I kinda figured that would be the response I would get. Installing the grease fitting is the last step in the instructions that came with it. So thats why I waited till it was on the car to put it in. Crazy that I spend 20 min trying to get it to go in, but the threads wouldn't catch. So just now I went out and pulled the part back off the car, and walah, it screwed right in. Go figure. Oh well, should be good for a long time now.

Cebby

iTrader: (6)

Is this the inner tie rod tool?

http://www.harborfreight.com/inner-t...set-96558.html

Are these the crow's feet?

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece...set-66796.html

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

No the crows foot mentioned is included with the inner tie rod tool, which you have linked above. The other tool you linked to is used for tie rod/drag link adjustment on trucks (and works pretty damn well too).

Cebby

iTrader: (6)

Excellent - thank you!