For some time now my car made this periodic clunk when I would drive on serverly bumpy and uneven roads. At first I assumed it was my 138k stock SE suspension letting me know it was on its way out. So i pruchased new shocks and springs. Tein H-Techs and Tokico Illuminas. Car wonderful but the clunk would still exhibit itself periodically on bumpy roads, low speed driving in parking lots and sometimes during braking.
So I then thought my LCA bushing were worn so i ordered ES bushings to replaced them. Before installing them I decided to go to a local mechanic who usually does my inspection sticker to get a quote on installed the LCA bushings.
Long story short my LCA bushings are fine. The culprits where the swaybar endlinks.

Being ambitious and cheap I decided i would do the install myself and save the labor.

Ordered all the parts from Infiniti. Less than $30 for both sides.


Today I decided to tackle this since the noise/clunk has gotten worst.


For this you will need.
1/2 drive ratchet and metric socket set. (14mm is all you need)
Some PB blaster or your choice of penetrating lubricant.
1/2 extensions
I used air tools but what I just listed is all you need for this job.

First step is obvious jacking up the car and supporting it on jack stands, You need to remove both wheels since you will be doing both side at once.

Once wheels are removed you will see the cluprit which is held into place by 2 14mm bolts on two places, one attaches it to the sway bar and the other to the LCA.


I also suggest loosening the sway bar bushings so that you can turn the sway bar ever so slighly to get the endlink out. 2 14mm bolts.


Basically its pretty straight forward from there. remove the bolts and removed the endlink and hard ware. Comparo shot of 140k old end link and brand new one. My driverside endlink was horrible which explains why the noise was on the drivers side. it was sooo loose.


I did both sides at the same time and tightened then both after everything was in place.You install them just as they were removed. I secured the bolts as tight as I could but I am sure someone can look up the correct tq specs.

Finally reinstalled links should look like this

 

Also, you can add the energy suspension bushings to make it stiffer.


I shall get it added to the how to's

 

I highly recommend this to anyone who has a higher mileage maxima. Like i said the parts were less than $30 and it took about 2 hours. I take my time and it takes a while for me to jack up the car.
Driving impressisons: Car feels tighter and best of all no noises or embrassing clunk.

 

I just replaced my lower control arm and the things and what a pain it was. Luckly I had air tools. Good luck to those that are replacing them.

 

Hey Zack you need to straighten out the endlinks. They must be in line with the braket on the control arm. $30 must have been with your bro's discount, since I bought NAPA ones at IIRC $20 each.

 

I did that after. I tightened them. They are straight now.

Yeah i was suprised to i think it was like $28.XX for everything all new nuts, washers, bushings and links.

 

Cool post, how can you tell if your sway bar end links are going bad, besides the clunk noise? I have no many noises I just turn up my radio. This seems like something I might want to try...

 

Nice writeup.. I should do this before I sell the car.

 

I priced the parts at nissanparts.cc, came out to about $55 shipped for all pieces.

I'll try DAVEB, and local dealers.

 

Damn. I guess he gets a good dicount.

 

Please post up some part numbers.

 

+1 for the part numbers.

 

Actually, there is a hex shape in the end link so that you can hold it still with a wrench while you tighten nut on top.

Dave

 

you will need moog part # k9824...you can order these through www.rockauto.com.

 

Just got TRW sway bar endlinks from Advanced Auto for $28.
Part #18166

 

End Link: 54618-0E000 ($14.49)
Washer (2 per side): 56113-60U05 ($1.28)
Bushing (2 per side): 56112-V0100 ($2.40)
Upper Nut: 01223-00291 ($0.54)
Lower nut: 01225-00261 ($0.66)

Unless you know of damage, I would only buy the bushings and link and re-use the hardware. These part numbers were pulled for a 97 SE, but I'm almost positive they work for all 4th gens.

Dave

 

Thanks Dave I couldn't find my invoice.

 

I am doing mine right now. After 183k miles, mine are beyond repair!

 

Alot of play compared to the new ones right

 

where do we order for these prices?

 

There was so much play in the old ones, I could probably pull the joint right out.. Here's a pic:


I bought a set of Moog's from Oreilly's. Each kit comes with the hardware, $21.99 per side. The car actually feels alot better driving now. Much more direct feel when turning corners.

On a side note, my car has had an annoying suspension squeak for quite some time now, and lately it has been getting worse. Well, after I replaced these and went for a drive... THE SQUEAK IS NOW GONE!!

 

bough mine

 

good to hear people are noticing a signigant feel from this. Mine are going in next weekend with a new spindle control arms and inner and outter tie rods.

 

Damn those are beefy. Glad to hear it got rid of your moises also. Such an easy fix i can't believe i hadn't done this sooner. Also for the price you can't justify not doing it.

 

Are those part numbers from the Nissan dealer?

 

Are those part numbers from the Nissan dealer?

 

Yes.... They ARE Nissan parts.

 

COOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOL.

kthxbye

 

are those rubber? can we use urethane for those?

 

Nice, are the bushings stiffer as well or is it just a beefier endlink? I'm thinking about doing this in the near future but I'd like some energy bushings (or equivelent).

 

Just did all new ES bushings up front after 110k miles. What a difference! I did the CA bushings, sway bar bushings, end link bushings, and sub frame bushings. That plus the motor mounts I already had, KSports and new ball joints and it's a totally different car.

 

Wow. How much total, and how long did it take you to put 'em all in?

 

zack342,

Thanks for the write-up. You've described the clunk that I've been trying to figure out for quite a while now. I must do this next!

So what's the cheapest price on them? Should I stick with the oem replacement?

 

do you have all those part #'s on hand by any chance? and where'd you get everything and how much?

 

Part #'s are in post #16.

 

I think so, yeah you can replace those with urethane ones.

I am not sure, as I don't know how well stock good condition ones feel. But definitely 100x better than my old ones.

I had to cut my driver side one off because it was too rusted and the bolt wouldn't come off..

 

I am a big fan of oem replacement parts but that maybe because I get them for cost due to a family member working for a Infiniti.
End Link: 54618-0E000 ($14.49)
Washer (2 per side): 56113-60U05 ($1.28)
Bushing (2 per side): 56112-V0100 ($2.40)
Upper Nut: 01223-00291 ($0.54)
Lower nut: 01225-00261 ($0.66)

With the prices quoted above your looking at about $46.10 + shipping for all the parts.

With the aftermarket MOOG parts Nismo used you looking at $43.98+ tax for everything.

either way your going to spend about $50 its your choice weather you would like OEM or not. I think the MOOG setup looks excellent but for $3 more I would prefer the OEM setup.

NISMO can you post the part #'s for anyone interest in using the MOOG stuff?

 

check my post on page 1 for moog parts #'s.

 

Hahaha I noticed that and almost commented on it... but decided against it.

 

Got a quote for the parts below from Pinnacle Nissan, $43 with tax. Shipping shouldn't be that much more.