Loose suspension
06-22-2006, 06:33 PM
#1
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Loose suspension
My suspension feels really loose in the front end. I replaced pretty much every bushing in the front end with the exception of the lower control arm and strut tower bushings. It improved after I installed the other bushings but it still hasn't felt right. It still feels loose. This past week it has developed a loud clunking noise whenever I hit a bump or small dip in the road and it's really getting annoying. It sounds like it's coming from the drivers side. Also it just recently developed a shake in the front end. I don't think the wheels are off balance because I had them done not too long ago and I can't feel a shake in the steering wheel. It feels like theres something in the front end shaking up and down but only at around 60 mph. It won't shake below 60 or above 70. Could the bushings have anything to do with these problems? Any suggestions?
06-23-2006, 04:58 PM
#4
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Check.......................
Ball joints.
Lower control arm bushings.
Inner and outer tie rod ends.
Sturt mounts.
Struts.
Sway bar end links.
Wheel bearings.
Wheels and tires.
Thats pretty much all there is to the front end of a 4th gen Maxima.
Ball joints.
Lower control arm bushings.
Inner and outer tie rod ends.
Sturt mounts.
Struts.
Sway bar end links.
Wheel bearings.
Wheels and tires.
Thats pretty much all there is to the front end of a 4th gen Maxima.
06-23-2006, 05:08 PM
#5
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Posts: 188
Originally Posted by NYC32798
Ball joints are probably shot since they have 210,000 miles on them. What are some symptoms could be caused by a bad ball joint?
06-23-2006, 06:33 PM
#7
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I'm just gonna order all the bushings I haven't replaced including the strut tower bushing and new ball joints. Hopefully that solves the problem. Either way I'm sure they are shot just like all the other ones were. I found ball joints online but in my chilton manual, it says you cannot replace just the ball joints. You must replace the whole lower control arm. Is this true?
06-25-2006, 01:14 AM
#9
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 36
I just replaced my ball joints the other day. If you can remove a control arm, you can replace a ball joint.
1. remove control arm from car.
2. place control arm in a vice. If you don't own a vice leave the control arm on the car and remove the knuckle.
3. remove the retaining clip on the ball joint.
4. (I'm hoping you already have your new ball joints waiting to be installed.) I got mine at Carquest. They had them in stock. Spray some liquid wrench on the ball joint as it may assist in removing it.
5. Call your buddy and have him drive you to the auto parts store so you can borrow a ball joint press tool.
6. A ball joint press tool looks like a giant c-clamp. Follow the instructions that are hopefully included with the press tool.
7. press out the old ball joint.
8. press in the new ball joint.
9. Remember to put a little anti-seize on the threads of the ball joint as it will make removing the bolt easier should you have to revisit this area at a later date.
10. Reassemble car.
11. Return tool to auto parts store.
With that said, I also changed my control arm bushings last week. The first one took forever. If you don't have a real oxy-acetylene torch it will test your patience to the limit. After I got fed up with the play torch, I had an epihany. I broke out the Sawzall with a metal cutting blade, and cut the old bushings away from the control arm in a few minutes. At the most the new bushing will require a c-clamp to press in.
I put in ES bushings, but honestly I don't try to kid myself into thinking I've got some kind of race car. If I knew how hard it was going to be to do all of that, and that I could get new control arms for less than $150, I would have bought the new control arms.
1. remove control arm from car.
2. place control arm in a vice. If you don't own a vice leave the control arm on the car and remove the knuckle.
3. remove the retaining clip on the ball joint.
4. (I'm hoping you already have your new ball joints waiting to be installed.) I got mine at Carquest. They had them in stock. Spray some liquid wrench on the ball joint as it may assist in removing it.
5. Call your buddy and have him drive you to the auto parts store so you can borrow a ball joint press tool.
6. A ball joint press tool looks like a giant c-clamp. Follow the instructions that are hopefully included with the press tool.
7. press out the old ball joint.
8. press in the new ball joint.
9. Remember to put a little anti-seize on the threads of the ball joint as it will make removing the bolt easier should you have to revisit this area at a later date.
10. Reassemble car.
11. Return tool to auto parts store.
With that said, I also changed my control arm bushings last week. The first one took forever. If you don't have a real oxy-acetylene torch it will test your patience to the limit. After I got fed up with the play torch, I had an epihany. I broke out the Sawzall with a metal cutting blade, and cut the old bushings away from the control arm in a few minutes. At the most the new bushing will require a c-clamp to press in.
I put in ES bushings, but honestly I don't try to kid myself into thinking I've got some kind of race car. If I knew how hard it was going to be to do all of that, and that I could get new control arms for less than $150, I would have bought the new control arms.
06-25-2006, 09:01 PM
#10
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Well i'm not sure if this would help diagnose the problem or not. For some reason the clunk noise got a lot worse today. It seems to do it not only when I hit bumps now, but it also does it when i'm braking. One time when I was braking, it made the clunk noise 3 times. I got under the car to check the cv joints and they looked good with no rips or tears. This clunking noise is driving me nuts. Anyone have any ideas?
06-26-2006, 04:16 AM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 142
im thinking now it may be the strut mount. i started developing the same symptoms u have. it sounds very suttle but u can definitely feel the thumping.
i know when i put in my new shocks the threading that holds the shock was getting a bit torn.
remove the strut and check ur mounts. that may be it
i know when i put in my new shocks the threading that holds the shock was getting a bit torn.
remove the strut and check ur mounts. that may be it
06-26-2006, 03:51 PM
#13
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I'll be replacing all those things next weekend so hopefully one of them fixes the problem. I was driving it in the rain today at 60 and it just felt really unsafe and loose. The one thing I can't figure out is what could cause that clunk noise and at the same time make the front end feel like it's jumping up and down and shaking. I replaced all the struts about 6 months ago and the mounts looked ok but I ordered new ones anyway.
06-27-2006, 08:07 AM
#15
Originally Posted by NYC32798
Ball joints are probably shot since they have 210,000 miles on them. What are some symptoms could be caused by a bad ball joint?
loose felling...wierd tire wear and if they brake ur wheel will almost fall off.....be really **** eyed and not drive able....
also check tie rods and such....
06-27-2006, 04:13 PM
#16
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I think I found the problem. I was able to get it up on a lift today. The ball joints look shot. The rubber on them is shredded so I'm replacing both control arms and that should do it. Thanks for the help.
07-20-2006, 08:49 PM
#17
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 15
Nice!!!
Thx for taking the time to write this up. I recently went to the auto parts store and bought the ES bushings ($35) and the ball joints ($29x2) for my '97. I'll be sure to return them tomorrow and just get the whole lower control assembly w/ everything already installed. For more or less the same price and a smaller headache... I can deal.
Thx again.
Thx again.
Originally Posted by JHowell37
I just replaced my ball joints the other day. If you can remove a control arm, you can replace a ball joint.
1. remove control arm from car.
2. place control arm in a vice. If you don't own a vice leave the control arm on the car and remove the knuckle.
3. remove the retaining clip on the ball joint.
4. (I'm hoping you already have your new ball joints waiting to be installed.) I got mine at Carquest. They had them in stock. Spray some liquid wrench on the ball joint as it may assist in removing it.
5. Call your buddy and have him drive you to the auto parts store so you can borrow a ball joint press tool.
6. A ball joint press tool looks like a giant c-clamp. Follow the instructions that are hopefully included with the press tool.
7. press out the old ball joint.
8. press in the new ball joint.
9. Remember to put a little anti-seize on the threads of the ball joint as it will make removing the bolt easier should you have to revisit this area at a later date.
10. Reassemble car.
11. Return tool to auto parts store.
With that said, I also changed my control arm bushings last week. The first one took forever. If you don't have a real oxy-acetylene torch it will test your patience to the limit. After I got fed up with the play torch, I had an epihany. I broke out the Sawzall with a metal cutting blade, and cut the old bushings away from the control arm in a few minutes. At the most the new bushing will require a c-clamp to press in.
I put in ES bushings, but honestly I don't try to kid myself into thinking I've got some kind of race car. If I knew how hard it was going to be to do all of that, and that I could get new control arms for less than $150, I would have bought the new control arms.
1. remove control arm from car.
2. place control arm in a vice. If you don't own a vice leave the control arm on the car and remove the knuckle.
3. remove the retaining clip on the ball joint.
4. (I'm hoping you already have your new ball joints waiting to be installed.) I got mine at Carquest. They had them in stock. Spray some liquid wrench on the ball joint as it may assist in removing it.
5. Call your buddy and have him drive you to the auto parts store so you can borrow a ball joint press tool.
6. A ball joint press tool looks like a giant c-clamp. Follow the instructions that are hopefully included with the press tool.
7. press out the old ball joint.
8. press in the new ball joint.
9. Remember to put a little anti-seize on the threads of the ball joint as it will make removing the bolt easier should you have to revisit this area at a later date.
10. Reassemble car.
11. Return tool to auto parts store.
With that said, I also changed my control arm bushings last week. The first one took forever. If you don't have a real oxy-acetylene torch it will test your patience to the limit. After I got fed up with the play torch, I had an epihany. I broke out the Sawzall with a metal cutting blade, and cut the old bushings away from the control arm in a few minutes. At the most the new bushing will require a c-clamp to press in.
I put in ES bushings, but honestly I don't try to kid myself into thinking I've got some kind of race car. If I knew how hard it was going to be to do all of that, and that I could get new control arms for less than $150, I would have bought the new control arms.
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