svojs

New to these fun DIY stuff. Decide to re-grease my starter pretty soon. In two months or so, I would clean TB, replace spark plugs/coil packs and KS.

A lot of bolts of the DIY works above need properly torqued. My question is, what size of torque wrench should I have? There are different head sizes and wrench length available on the market. How and what should I choose one (for all the works I mentioned above)?

TIA

dgeesaman

iTrader: (10)

I used a torque wrench for none of those, but if you do I'd get the 1/4" drive that measures in in-lb.

IMO it's most important when torquing fasteners that require 10+ ft-lb, since they are often under greater load. Smaller fasteners that hold the KS or intake together really just need to be snug, and not overtightened. Spark plugs are usually finger tight + 1/2 turn or something like that - if they're new that's just enough to partially crush the metal washer that comes on the plug. You might want to look up the plug tightening procedure yourself.

Dave

southeast_first

iTrader: (3)

+1 on not really needing a torque wrench for those projects. you will need one if you're serious about working on your car, though, and i think that a half-inch drive that measures up to 200+ ft/lbs would be the best choice for you.

Vlasic

iTrader: (13)

The only thing you need a torque wrench for are lug nuts and the bolts inside your engine, everything else just needs common sense. A torque wrench is a good thing to have, but you have to learn to not rely on it for everything. Lots of people will waste so much time looking up torque specs and setting their wrench to tighten things like strut tower bolts, or manifold bolts when you really can just do it by hand.

Ive replaced just about everything on my car (minus the motor) at one point and the ONLY thing I have ever used my torque wrench on are the lug nuts.

svojs

Thanks, fellow Maximaers. Looks like it's time to create some common senses.

grandmastr

iTrader: (1)

I use the torque wrench when im gasket work on teh cars, like replacing the valve cover gaskets.

Vlasic

iTrader: (13)

Another good example of something you DONT need a torque wrench for.

grandmastr

iTrader: (1)

Well the one time I didn't use a torque wrench for replacing a gasket, I had a leak.

MaximaSE96

iTrader: (8)

i would torque KS to spec.....over torquing could damage it...that and wheel bearing HUB bolts....but a nice Craftsman are fine...i have a 3/8" and 1/2" Craftsman TWs

hasei

iTrader: (5)

It's true that it's important to use common sense and you don't really "need" torque wrenches for a lot of tasks. I have torque wrenches but I don't always use them. But nothing wrong or bad comes from using it or relying on it in order to torque to spec.

I agree with southeast_first that a half-inch drive that measures up to 200+ ft/lbs would be the best choice, especially if you don't have a half-inch drive rachet or breaker bar. Maybe 150 ft/lbs one might suffice.

ThurzNite

iTrader: (13)

holy crap, what requires 200 lb/ft?!
Jae

hasei

iTrader: (5)

The only one I can think of is axle nuts - 175 lb/ft.

ThurzNite

iTrader: (13)

Is 175 min or max?
Jae

4x4Max

iTrader: (12)

crank pulley is 140...thats kinda a lot for such a small bolt

hasei

iTrader: (5)

Minimum. It's actually 174 according to FSM. Max is 231.

ThurzNite

iTrader: (13)

oh yeah, you're right. I don't weigh much... definitely less than 174. I guess I really jumped on my torque wrench to make it click. Haha.

I'm not so worried. The cotter pin holds the king nut which prevents the nut from backing out. All good!

Jae

nismology

iTrader: (8)

The crank pulley requires angle tightening. <-----