well i purchased the shore 80 A poly from the site everyone gets it from. I gutted out alot of the rubber from one of the mounts, and now the other mount i have is that electrical type(auto motor mount), Can the plug attached to the mount be removed and not have a leak? or should i just leave the plug attached and fill the mount?

here is the one i gutted http://uploader.ws/upload/200607/DSC00208_1.jpg

i have this done, but my mounts arn't electronically controlled, so i cannot answer your question, but you should remove all of that rubber from the stock mount in your pic before filling it with poly

Completely remove every piece of rubber? i figured this poly stuff wasnt goign to stick very well to bare metal thats why i left some rubber in there. although i did remove more than what u see on the picture, i actually set it on fire with a propane torch n melted alot of the rubber away.

Could have just left the rubber and filled the parts that had spaces. I don't see how ur going to make the hole for where the mounts bolts up and have it be exactly where it needs to be.

i took pictures of how the cylinder should go. i have a few ideas of how im going to rig up something to hold the cylinder while the liquid sets. ill take pics when i do it so yall can see

I agree with Parag. You can just fill the voids and leave the existing mount if it's in decent shape. If it's air or liquid filled of course you puncture that and fill inside too.

I agree with Parag too.......... oh thats me.... how the hell didja know my name?

Its liquid filled, I drilled it, drained the oil out and then cut that area out.

mine had fluid as well. no going back now its already gutted pretty much. im just goign to fill the entire thing with poly have no other choice now. with the electrical one. i set it on fire lol, and then removed alot of the rubber, theres large metal pieces inside the mount, so u cant really take out too much rubber cuz of that metal. im just going to fill them as is. ill take some pics as i do this and let u guys kno how it went. thanx for advices.

Nicely done on the mount. To center the metal thing where the bolt goes, I would glue a string to the top of the cylinder, then pull the string taught against the mount shell. Center it the best you can. The gravity should hold it straight vertical. Make sure the other side is sealed (I'm guessing you're gonna use really good sticky tape so nothing leaks. Good luck.

Personally, I would fill part way, then use something stiffer for the middle, and then fill the rest (like a layered Jello desert). 80A shore is softer than ES; the stiffer middle should make up for it. You can use epoxy, welding putty, welding filler, or concrete filler. Those should be able to withstand the pressure and heat. Good luck.

Jae

thanx, i had a similar idea to place the cylinder, ill see wat works best.
shore 80A is softer than ES but still stiffer than stock rubber right?

Edit: I just received the poly and does this stuff expand when you mix? because its very little amount. its for two mounts. don kno if its enough.

I still don't get it. Why would you take away the only thing isolating the engine vibration from the body of the car? I'm sure there are small performance gains if you have a manual transmission and want faster shifts, etc., but other than that, aren't you going backwards by using solid mounts and forcing all the engine vibration back into the body of the car?

Well i am not really doing this for performance gain. I am doing it to actually save money, and i shoudlnt have as bad vibrations as with the ES since like mentioned above this is softer. I might still have some slight vibration but i dont mind that.

I think its going to be hard to get the hole where you need to put the bolts through exact. There must be a high tolerance to get that bolt through.

By the way I rode in another members car that had this mod and the car doesn't vibrate any more than the stock setup.

i think i found a solution to align the cylinder. i cut out a piece of cardboard, made a hole so the cylinder can fit in pretty snug with no movement. here are couple pics.

GOOD LUCK

thanx dude, i need it lol. good thing these are spare mounts and not the ones on my car right now lol otherwise i woulda been ownd if i screwd up and had to start from scratch or actually buy real ones lol.

dang you're good. As far as being exact, I don't think that' a problem. Normally you'd slide that center bolt through first anyways, and then attach the lower part (or cross mount). It's easy to get those bottom holes to line up.

To the guy asking why, I think the solid mounts are less likely to tear again. One time deal, worth the price (rebuilt ebay mounts are $80/pair anyways, and those aren't solid either).

Jae

I haven't priced them....must be ballistic in price? Let us know how it works out and if you have any vibration with the new setup.

Last night I was reminded about the performance gain in stiffer mounts: it's a must have for people who use their right foot to steer.

Jae

Well i finally filled the mounts guys. I cutout piece of cardboard and used silicone to not leak, it worked perfect, heres a picture of the rear mount which came out better than the front. I wanna know if its ok to have all the miniture bubbles inside.

Top part where i poured the liquid

Bottom part that had the cardboard.

cool, good job. Can't really do much about those lil bubbles... they either rise to the top or they don't.
Jae

wow nice job.

its really solid right now, but i'll just wait a week or two before installing them. To make sure its completely cured.

wow, why is it that color? when i filled mine, all the polyurethane was black. or is that sandy/tan colored stuff the silicone you used?

nah its not the silicone, im not sure why its that color.

filled mounts also help with wheel hop

those of you guys that did this, your urathane turned black? because mine are still with the same color. I am pretty sure it is because i used more of the activator than needed, my problem was that. the urathane got hard on the top. so i had to remove the top layer and use w/e was rest below it, but when i mixed it with the activator i used the entire activator bottle (shoulda used less to keep same proportion)

You guys think it is still as solid though? They are still siting in my room and i think they are completly done since its been more than a week. but dont kno if i should trust them.

Hey what's up guys.

Where did you get this urethane from? I need some for a seperate project I'm working on. I would ask my dad where he bought it from (Jime) but he's out galavanting for the next week and isn't around...

A link would be cool too, thanks.

BTW.. Your mix on the urethane dones't look right. Its as if there is too much activator and not enough urethante. Did you mix it correctly? My dad's mounts are totally black and feel like normal rubber, but he used 94A I believe. Also it's probablly not the best idea to cut all the rubber away because you don't know exactly where the metal insert goes when the motor is to be lined up. If it's off a bit, it makes it really hard to get the bolts in when lining up the motor and that could be a total PITA for you.... Best off to leave in the OE rubber and fill around it, or shave 90% of it away leaving a few fingers holding the metal insert in the OE spot before you do a fill. Then use wax baking paper on the sides to make it flat cause it wont stick.

You can get it here- http://www.mcmaster.com/

Enter part# 8644K11 for the 80 shore A $26.66

One order should be plenty if you don't cut out the mounts. And they deliver fast.

Well ur right, there was more activator than urathane because i had the urathane sitting for some time so the top layer got hard so i had to peal it off and throw it away and i used w/e was left below that, which was enough for both mounts. it is very very hard, feels harder than the rubber. i dont kno if i should install them.

I'm not doing mounts with it anyway so it should be good. It's for pouring a small part that I made, basically a urethane part im casting more or less...


Chances are what will happen is the vibration will cause the hardner to crack and the mount will be useless.. The hardner is only there to harden the urethane so it will dry. It's brittle and the vibration from the engine will cause it to crack. I would gut those mounts back out again re-order and do it again. Better yet buy new mounts from the wreckers and re-do them keeping the metal insert hung by a few pieces of rubber to ensure they are in exactly the right location. They may work, but I wouldn't put them in my car lets put it that way.

Good luck and thanks for the info guys!