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front wheel studs

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Old 08-01-2006 | 12:52 PM
  #1  
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front wheel studs

I need to replace a wheel stud on the front of my 99. Are they easy to change? Can I get at the back of the hub easily without taking too much apart?
Old 08-01-2006 | 01:02 PM
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Take the wheel off. Hammer out the old stud. Then put the new stud it, place washers on the front of it to act as a spacer, then use the lug nut to pull the stud into place.
Old 08-01-2006 | 03:16 PM
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i take my rotors off, when i do it.......take the brake calipers, the caliper mount, and the rotors just slide off. i hammer the old ones out, and put a new one threw the hole, get some washers liek said above and put them on. Start tightening lugs nut and it will pull the stud into place.

get a breaker bar or a pipe, cause it takes alittle force
Old 08-01-2006 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Dubbya
Take the wheel off. Hammer out the old stud. Then put the new stud it, place washers on the front of it to act as a spacer, then use the lug nut to pull the stud into place.
Be swift when you do it. If you can do it in one hit, do it. The more hammering it takes, the more likely you are to cause damage to the bearing.
Old 08-01-2006 | 09:18 PM
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u cant hurt the bearing... i jus replced them yesterday...
Old 08-01-2006 | 09:29 PM
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What does the fact that you replaced them yesterday have anything to do with being unable to hurt the bearing?

You can cause the bearing to be prone to failure, or destroy it completely by directing extreme pressures at it sideways like that. They are not meant to withstand that type of force.

-Andrew
Old 08-01-2006 | 09:34 PM
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hey if u knew how they are build and how they are seated .... then u would know what im talking about.... plus u have the entire cvshaft bolted tothe hub with a 36mm nut... it aint going anywhere... but of course u dont wanna hit the damn thing side ways...
Old 08-01-2006 | 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by f550maranello2
hey if u knew how they are build and how they are seated .... then u would know what im talking about.... plus u have the entire cvshaft bolted tothe hub with a 36mm nut... it aint going anywhere... but of course u dont wanna hit the damn thing side ways...
Who said I didnt know how a rolling element bearing is built and seated? The fact there is a cv joint there has nothing to do with it. They_are_not designed to withstand load from that direction.

Your attempt to display knowledge has worked very well against you. If you knew how they were designed, and how they were designed to work, you would know they cannot withstand much side load.

I tell you what, why don't you google it?
Google wheel bearing side load
Google wheel bearing failure

The list goes on. Next time, before you post information, make sure you're correct.

-Andrew
Old 08-01-2006 | 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by xxtavixx
Who said I didnt know how a rolling element bearing is built and seated? The fact there is a cv joint there has nothing to do with it. They_are_not designed to withstand load from that direction.

Your attempt to display knowledge has worked very well against you. If you knew how they were designed, and how they were designed to work, you would know they cannot withstand much side load.

I tell you what, why don't you google it?
Google wheel bearing side load
Google wheel bearing failure

The list goes on. Next time, before you post information, make sure you're correct.

-Andrew

sorry but i had to

Old 08-01-2006 | 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by xxtavixx
Who said I didnt know how a rolling element bearing is built and seated? The fact there is a cv joint there has nothing to do with it. They_are_not designed to withstand load from that direction.

Your attempt to display knowledge has worked very well against you. If you knew how they were designed, and how they were designed to work, you would know they cannot withstand much side load.

I tell you what, why don't you google it?
Google wheel bearing side load
Google wheel bearing failure

The list goes on. Next time, before you post information, make sure you're correct.

-Andrew
an example of how post count doesnt always matter, sometimes its pure time and dedication haha..
Old 08-02-2006 | 01:06 AM
  #11  
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Thanks guys!
Old 08-02-2006 | 04:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Dubbya
Take the wheel off. Hammer out the old stud. Then put the new stud it, place washers on the front of it to act as a spacer, then use the lug nut to pull the stud into place.
word...i usually take the brakes off...but that should be a given but u never kow
Old 08-02-2006 | 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by xxtavixx
Who said I didnt know how a rolling element bearing is built and seated? The fact there is a cv joint there has nothing to do with it. They_are_not designed to withstand load from that direction.

Your attempt to display knowledge has worked very well against you. If you knew how they were designed, and how they were designed to work, you would know they cannot withstand much side load.

The list goes on. Next time, before you post information, make sure you're correct.

-Andrew
ur a ..... learn to read posts noob...
Old 08-02-2006 | 10:08 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by f550maranello2
u cant hurt the bearing... i jus replced them yesterday...
Originally Posted by f550maranello2
ur a ..... learn to read posts noob...

Uhmm...as you were saying. Learn to read your own post. You changed your view on it after I corrected you. And not only at that, you made your statement two sided. You said
Originally Posted by f550maranello2
if u knew how they are build and how they are seated .... then u would know what im talking about.... plus u have the entire cvshaft bolted tothe hub with a 36mm nut... it aint going anywhere...
Which means you still didn't think any damage would be caused. But, you still covered your butt but saying
Originally Posted by f550maranello2
but of course u dont wanna hit the damn thing side ways...
Try to keep it to one story. You had no idea what you were talking about, you're simply trying to keep any dignity you can, even if it is merely calling me a
Originally Posted by f550maranello2
noob
who just corrected you.
-Andrew
Old 08-02-2006 | 10:18 AM
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Pepboys sells a tool to press the old stud out.
Old 08-02-2006 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by UncleMax98
Pepboys sells a tool to press the old stud out.
A C clamp should work for that.
Old 08-02-2006 | 03:57 PM
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[/QUOTE]Try to keep it to one story.
-Andrew[/QUOTE]

dude u are a moron arent u... if u learn to read correctly.. i said that ur not gonna hurt it by simply hitting the stud out... then i also added that u shouldnt hit it side ways...
Old 08-02-2006 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by f550maranello2
u cant hurt the bearing... i jus replced them yesterday...

If they can't be hurt....then why does the dealer still sell them. And better yet, why did you replace yours??
Old 08-02-2006 | 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by UncleMax98
Pepboys sells a tool to press the old stud out.
AutoZone rents it for free...you just need to put down a deposit.
Old 08-02-2006 | 05:20 PM
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yep always better to rent than spend money on something that ur probably not gonna use for a long time..
Old 08-02-2006 | 10:45 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by f550maranello2
Try to keep it to one story.
-Andrew
dude u are a moron arent u... if u learn to read correctly.. i said that ur not gonna hurt it by simply hitting the stud out... then i also added that u shouldnt hit it side ways...
I fixed your quote
That's the second time you've changed your story.

You didn't read those google things did you? YOU CAN HURT IT by hammering the studs out. Very common that it causes damage. The best way to avoid causing damage, if you do it by that method, is to hit hard once and get it out. Better yet, remove the stud and use a slide hammer.

Now, how about this, look in your Haynes manual. Or here's a free one:

http://autozone.com/repair_info.htm

Look up any car, and wheel stud removal. The website is down right now, but it will say do_no_hammer_the_studs_out_to_prevent_wheel_bearin g_damage or along those lines.

You have yet to provide any technical date or means to support yourself other than your word. Do you know why that is? Because you are wrong. Case closed. You've made yourself appear bad in one case, then another. I can't believe you wanted to come up with a rebuttle for a third time. Is it the simple fact that I'm a "noob"? Does that make you want to prove yourself superior?

Have a nice day. I hope you didn't destroy your wheel bearing while hammering your studs out, but at least you would have learned a valuable lesson, even if it wasn't "dont post what you dont know" or "dont try to school noobs" or even "people who use name calling as a rebuttle are not cool and look badly when completely destroyed by a noob with 38 posts, which is a mere fractoin of your 1567, at the time of original rebuttle"

Originally Posted by Apparition
an example of how post count doesnt always matter, sometimes its pure time and dedication haha..
-Andrew
Old 08-03-2006 | 07:19 AM
  #22  
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take this b1tch fest to PMs or something. no sense making this thread a mess.

to the OP, there is a site that shows how to change a rear stud. pics and everything. i would assume it is very similar to the front. let me try to dig that up.
Old 08-03-2006 | 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Supermax95
If they can't be hurt....then why does the dealer still sell them. And better yet, why did you replace yours??
Because they wear out...
Old 08-03-2006 | 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by f550maranello2
yep always better to rent than spend money on something that ur probably not gonna use for a long time..
I think having a c-clamp is a valuable tool. You can also use it to compress the front caliper pistons for a brake job.
Old 08-03-2006 | 08:23 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Dubbya
Take the wheel off. Hammer out the old stud. Then put the new stud it, place washers on the front of it to act as a spacer, then use the lug nut to pull the stud into place.
I just changed one in the front. The Goon that inspected the car f'd one up. I couldn't get the wheel nut off so I broke the stud off with a breaker bar, I tapped it out with a sledge (4 lb) with 1 hit. I bought 2 studs and 1 pass-through lug nut and 1 acron lug nut. put the new stud in, a few washers for spacers, greased the stud up (they get hot the way I did it), zinged the new one on with a impact gun, replaced wheel, used the new acron nut......Done

15 minutes
Old 08-04-2006 | 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by nismology
Because they wear out...
thats what im trying to say...
Old 08-04-2006 | 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 86maxima96
take this b1tch fest to PMs or something. no sense making this thread a mess.

to the OP, there is a site that shows how to change a rear stud. pics and everything. i would assume it is very similar to the front. let me try to dig that up.

it is very similar to the front, but the differance in doing it, is if you do nto have air tools to pull the stud through, the hub will spin on the back when you turn it with a socket wrech and breaker. The front the stays still. you need something to hold the hub still so it just does not turn when you crank the wrench.
Old 08-05-2006 | 02:41 AM
  #28  
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Replaced one front stud yesterday, total time=10 minutes.
Old 08-05-2006 | 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ManualMaxima
it is very similar to the front, but the differance in doing it, is if you do nto have air tools to pull the stud through, the hub will spin on the back when you turn it with a socket wrech and breaker. The front the stays still. you need something to hold the hub still so it just does not turn when you crank the wrench.

ah, yea. makes sense.
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