what is te correct driving pattern to reset ecu?
08-18-2006, 08:01 AM
#1
what is te correct driving pattern to reset ecu?
So i failed inspection again. When my tags expired I knew I would fail because my check engine light was on for the egr and evap. I didnt feel like fixing it so i thought i would be slick and just reset the ecu while in line at motor vehicle. well that didnt work i just failed now because of several components showed not ready when they hooked up the obdii to the car. then check engine light came right back after i left. So i went out and bought the egrc solenoid and replaced it about a week ago and reset the ecu again. I probably put about 200+ miles on car since replacing egrc. check engine light has not come back on yet. I went back to motor vehicle today and still failed with same things showing not ready. (catalyst, evap sys, o2 sensor, egr sys). The guy at motor vehicle told me to go to dealership and may have to do a specific driving pattern . What is the correct driving pattern?
08-18-2006, 08:21 AM
#2
The driving pattern is very specific for each vehicle type, according to model, engine and transmission, CA or FED emissions etc. Your dealer should be able to get it for you from the ASIST workstation in the service dept.
08-18-2006, 09:08 AM
#3
Originally Posted by oldngivout
The driving pattern is very specific for each vehicle type, according to model, engine and transmission, CA or FED emissions etc. Your dealer should be able to get it for you from the ASIST workstation in the service dept.
Drive it like you stole it I guess
08-18-2006, 10:26 AM
#4
wtf? lol...there's a driving pattern? From what i know after the check engine light has been taken care of and it's not returning you have to drive about 80 or so miles and then go for the inspection. This was told to me by a guy who does the inspection in NYC. How true this is IDK but i've never heard of there being a driving pattern...
08-18-2006, 12:36 PM
#9
I dont know about all that. Its not as easy as reseting the ECU.
Back in Jan. I was in an accident. My car was in the shop for close two 2 months. When I got it back it the Batt. was dead. Charged the battery and drove for a couple of days and my Inspection was due.
I went to get it inspected and failed due to the same systems listed above not being ready. The place that did the insopection gave me a list of driving patterns to do in order to trigger each items as ready. The patterns were crazy and they had to be done in a certain order.
I didnt really think I had to do all that, so I reset the ECU and drove for another 3 weeks (well over 200 miles) with the expired sticker.
I took it to autozone to see if the everything was still not ready and they werent. I then tried doing the driving patterns and was able to get the catalyst to go away but the others were still there.
I finally just took it to another shop and slipped him some extra cash and he passed it.
Back in Jan. I was in an accident. My car was in the shop for close two 2 months. When I got it back it the Batt. was dead. Charged the battery and drove for a couple of days and my Inspection was due.
I went to get it inspected and failed due to the same systems listed above not being ready. The place that did the insopection gave me a list of driving patterns to do in order to trigger each items as ready. The patterns were crazy and they had to be done in a certain order.
I didnt really think I had to do all that, so I reset the ECU and drove for another 3 weeks (well over 200 miles) with the expired sticker.
I took it to autozone to see if the everything was still not ready and they werent. I then tried doing the driving patterns and was able to get the catalyst to go away but the others were still there.
I finally just took it to another shop and slipped him some extra cash and he passed it.
08-18-2006, 01:43 PM
#11
Originally Posted by Kevlo911
I believe the Owners Manual states the driving pattern. It is fckin long and hard as **** to do. Good luck.
08-18-2006, 01:48 PM
#12
Originally Posted by Vlasic
yah, back when I failed smog I was told I had to do that long *** procedure, but I didnt. After about 2 months of normal driving it fixed itself.
Geez, two months FTL!
08-18-2006, 03:49 PM
#13
hahaha, ya no ****. By then I had already failed smog three times and had become so discouraged from trying to fix it. Two months later I was at my friends smog shop and I hooked it up just for the hell of it and it passed.
08-18-2006, 04:18 PM
#14
I'm trying to understand what you guys are referring to as to "resetting" the ECU? Are you disconnecting the battery? If so, the learning process will only take longer for the ECU to recognize everything....hence the continuous driving cycles and "not ready mode". Now, if a scan tool is used, the code(s) needs to be "cleared", and the ECU will recognize the replaced/faulty sensor immediately and the ECU will re-learn much faster giving you a ready-mode. I owned a 4th gener, and the screw on the ECU can be used to "clear" the code (no need to disconnect the battery). This procedure must be done BEFORE you start the car, or the ECU will keep the code stored. In other words, once you know the faulty sensor(s)...replace, "clear" code(s) BEFORE starting car, and the ECU will recognize the new sensor immediately and re-learn everything much quickly.
08-18-2006, 05:03 PM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 203
hmmm 2 months! jesus i hope it doesnt take that long. i kept failing for different reasons, knock, o2, evap, egr, and the codes would pop back up imediately after being reset, but now ive replaced all of that stuff and all the codes have been gone for about 120 miles and the obdii said it still wasnt ready. so im gonna try again at around 180-200 miles and hope for the best.
08-18-2006, 06:02 PM
#17
Originally Posted by MIXXMAX
I owned a 4th gener, and the screw on the ECU can be used to "clear" the code (no need to disconnect the battery). This procedure must be done BEFORE you start the car, or the ECU will keep the code stored. In other words, once you know the faulty sensor(s)...replace, "clear" code(s) BEFORE starting car, and the ECU will recognize the new sensor immediately and re-learn everything much quickly.
Ive been there and done that.
08-18-2006, 09:02 PM
#18
As far as I know, clearing a DTC is not as simple as it looks. The entire memory of the trouble code is erased, you cannot simply remove the one that is present without starting all over. That is why every time a DTC is erased, you must do the drive schedule or enough real world miles to more than cover every item in the System Readiness Check.
I realize that it is confusing, but it keeps the operator from removing the code in the emissions test line without actually fixing the problem. Which a lot of us would do.
I realize that it is confusing, but it keeps the operator from removing the code in the emissions test line without actually fixing the problem. Which a lot of us would do.
08-19-2006, 06:39 AM
#19
Originally Posted by zx2max
So i failed inspection again. When my tags expired I knew I would fail because my check engine light was on for the egr and evap. I didnt feel like fixing it so i thought i would be slick and just reset the ecu while in line at motor vehicle. well that didnt work i just failed now because of several components showed not ready when they hooked up the obdii to the car. then check engine light came right back after i left. So i went out and bought the egrc solenoid and replaced it about a week ago and reset the ecu again. I probably put about 200+ miles on car since replacing egrc. check engine light has not come back on yet. I went back to motor vehicle today and still failed with same things showing not ready. (catalyst, evap sys, o2 sensor, egr sys). The guy at motor vehicle told me to go to dealership and may have to do a specific driving pattern . What is the correct driving pattern?
http://lyberty.com/car/Maxima_A32_do...g%20pattern%22
Good luck its a PITA to do on a public road but I have done it on my car.
Also people will think your weird or crazy driving this way and there will always be someone that's going to fast on your rear or to slow in front of you.
08-19-2006, 06:21 PM
#21
That drive pattern does not have to be driven to the exact T for the computer to be reset and in "ready" state once again for passing emission/inspection... its just a hell of alot faster to do if you have the right roads etc (its pretty much for dealers referece)... just reset the ecu like normal (turn key to on position but not start, then turn screw clockwise then counterclockwise two times) then drive it a normal 50 to even sometimes 350 miles before the computer is ran through the full drive cycle and each aspect of the computer diagnostic of the vehical has been completed... its a pain the a** if you are tryin to pass inspection/emission especially if you have multiple codes...
08-19-2006, 09:01 PM
#22
Originally Posted by denami
im sorry, but that is ridicuous and almost impossible to do on public roads....this cant be the only way for it to reset fully.....right?
08-20-2006, 12:24 AM
#23
Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 37
I went through this "Not Ready" thing two straight smog inspection years and all failed. My state (CA) allows maximum of 2 "Not Ready" monitors to pass smog. I have 3 two years ago. My '96 Max failed smog three times before it finally passed. It was very frustrated because you see all those good numbers coming out for CO, HC, and NO and feel you get punished for something stupid and you can't do much about it. The shop I brought my car in for smog gave me the driving pattern. I drove the pattern, as close as possible, the night before I brought the car for re-test because there would be lot less traffic and the traffic lights somewhat response intelligently. While driving on the highway with 50 MPH, I turned on the hazard light. Though difficult to duplicate, it helped. I did pass, after three tries. I heard the key is to make sure you have a little less than half a tank when you brought the car for inspection. I also don't want to disconnect the battery or reset the ECU at least a week before going to the smog station.
This year I double-checked most of the emission related components and make sure there were no CEL/codes before going for the inspection. I even replaced the EGR solenoid valve, 2 front O2s, and ECTS a few months back. Guess what, it failed again. It is discouraging. But I still love my Maximum. So I thought there must be something that can be done to fix this problem permanently. I called a couple of local Nissan dealerships. They all said the ECU can't be re-programmed as suggested by AAA and Nissan pretty much just published the service bulletin and let drivers to do whatever they could to pass the smog. One of the dealers said they would also just do the driving pattern, but because they did a lot they claimed the first pass rate was high. They would charge $225 for setting all monitors ready by doing the driving pattern. The amount doesn't include smog inspection.
I ended up calling a Referee Scheduling office following the website printed on my smog inspection report. The office gives waivers to drivers who failed smog for some "legitimate" reasons. The person I talked to mentioned they could by-pass the readiness check should the "Not Ready" status fail me but the visual and smog portions of the inspection are good to go. They would charge a nominal fee. That's the direction I am going to take if my re-test fail again after following the driving pattern.
Goog luck on your re-test as well.
This year I double-checked most of the emission related components and make sure there were no CEL/codes before going for the inspection. I even replaced the EGR solenoid valve, 2 front O2s, and ECTS a few months back. Guess what, it failed again. It is discouraging. But I still love my Maximum. So I thought there must be something that can be done to fix this problem permanently. I called a couple of local Nissan dealerships. They all said the ECU can't be re-programmed as suggested by AAA and Nissan pretty much just published the service bulletin and let drivers to do whatever they could to pass the smog. One of the dealers said they would also just do the driving pattern, but because they did a lot they claimed the first pass rate was high. They would charge $225 for setting all monitors ready by doing the driving pattern. The amount doesn't include smog inspection.
I ended up calling a Referee Scheduling office following the website printed on my smog inspection report. The office gives waivers to drivers who failed smog for some "legitimate" reasons. The person I talked to mentioned they could by-pass the readiness check should the "Not Ready" status fail me but the visual and smog portions of the inspection are good to go. They would charge a nominal fee. That's the direction I am going to take if my re-test fail again after following the driving pattern.
Goog luck on your re-test as well.
08-20-2006, 01:55 AM
#26
Originally Posted by Kevlo911
I believe the Owners Manual states the driving pattern. It is fckin long and hard as **** to do. Good luck.
08-20-2006, 07:35 AM
#28
Make sure you guys check the readiness codes before you shut the car off and then check them when you turn the car back on. Im running a '95 ECU and I think that is why it operates so differently.
Anyways my ECU would delete ALL the readiness data everytime the engine was shut off. All the fuses for the ECU were intact and the memory is getting power. In the end I hard wired my ECU to stay on constantly and got all the ready codes, however it then got a P0420 and P0430 code for the cat converter. So I took the car off the road for the season. Over the winter im going to get a replacement cat converter and do some other stuff.
Anyways my ECU would delete ALL the readiness data everytime the engine was shut off. All the fuses for the ECU were intact and the memory is getting power. In the end I hard wired my ECU to stay on constantly and got all the ready codes, however it then got a P0420 and P0430 code for the cat converter. So I took the car off the road for the season. Over the winter im going to get a replacement cat converter and do some other stuff.
08-20-2006, 02:35 PM
#29
well since i failed inspection on friday because of the "not ready" i decided since i need to drive my car around, i went to the beach for the weekend and back which is about 130 miles each way. still no check engine light and of the 4 monitors showing not ready now only 2 are not ready.-egr and catylist. seeing how my registration has expired 2 weeks ago that was a shady drive but had to get the miles on the car somehow. when i replacd the egr valve i had the battery unplugged for 2 hours to be safe. the CEL was still on after replacing it. i had to reset the ecu to get it cleared. I guess I will try that driving cycle from 98seblackmax posted earlier.
08-21-2006, 07:12 AM
#30
Wow I stand corrected about the driving pattern issue. I thought the tech was blowing smoke up the wahoozle, but it seems to be a Cali-only issue. In Canada, we just take the car in and they check 02/Hc/No, I've passed multiple times even though I have a bad rear 02 sensor. I just reset the ECU with the screw method and drive it in. I guess Ca has very strict emission controls.
Good luck!
Good luck!
08-21-2006, 08:25 AM
#32
Originally Posted by 95bluse
Wow I stand corrected about the driving pattern issue. I thought the tech was blowing smoke up the wahoozle, but it seems to be a Cali-only issue. In Canada, we just take the car in and they check 02/Hc/No, I've passed multiple times even though I have a bad rear 02 sensor. I just reset the ECU with the screw method and drive it in. I guess Ca has very strict emission controls.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Cali is the worst on emissions, but a lot more states now days are trying to go the " Cali Route" in regards to emissions. TX is now doing it.
08-21-2006, 07:04 PM
#33
Originally Posted by MaximaSE96
the ECU has to perform a complete cycle....unless u fix the problem and then reset the ECU with the screw, scanner, or driving for about 350 miles the codes arnt going to go away
We are talking about resetting the ECU right before a smog check....The ecu will give out a "not ready" signal that pretty much tells the smog check station that the ecu was just reset.
08-24-2006, 06:06 AM
#34
Originally Posted by 95bluse
Wow I stand corrected about the driving pattern issue. I thought the tech was blowing smoke up the wahoozle, but it seems to be a Cali-only issue. In Canada, we just take the car in and they check 02/Hc/No, I've passed multiple times even though I have a bad rear 02 sensor. I just reset the ECU with the screw method and drive it in. I guess Ca has very strict emission controls.
Good luck!
Good luck!
03-08-2007, 02:33 PM
#35
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (54)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Northern Jersey
Posts: 10,166
Alright guys heres the deal. I have a place to go get tested and they said they can pass me if I have TWO out of the FOUR rediness codes....
-Catylst
-EGR
-O2 Heater
-O2 Sensor
I dont have EGR nor a CAT but everything is plugged in and I have NEVER had a code for either one.
I only have ONE ready out of the four ready. The 02 Heater. I then pulled the car out and took a ride with the car to get it warmed up...came back, same thing... I stood there with the owner of the shop and hes telling me that Im not getting the Readyness codes because of my Emanage piggyback system. The Emanage has NOTHING to do with emissions testing nor anything to with the lights.
WHY arent the other three perameteres going into READY ???
Any help would be great with others having experience with this. I read about the readyness driving patterns a bit, and the place is 20 miles from me...I would obviously have to do it on a highway by me...NOT a bit deal, but after the test is run, can I drive down to the place to get tested, or does it have to happen right away ??
-matt
-Catylst
-EGR
-O2 Heater
-O2 Sensor
I dont have EGR nor a CAT but everything is plugged in and I have NEVER had a code for either one.
I only have ONE ready out of the four ready. The 02 Heater. I then pulled the car out and took a ride with the car to get it warmed up...came back, same thing... I stood there with the owner of the shop and hes telling me that Im not getting the Readyness codes because of my Emanage piggyback system. The Emanage has NOTHING to do with emissions testing nor anything to with the lights.
WHY arent the other three perameteres going into READY ???
Any help would be great with others having experience with this. I read about the readyness driving patterns a bit, and the place is 20 miles from me...I would obviously have to do it on a highway by me...NOT a bit deal, but after the test is run, can I drive down to the place to get tested, or does it have to happen right away ??
-matt
03-08-2007, 02:55 PM
#36
How fast/slow do you go while performing the driving patterns to reset the ECU?
My CEL came on on Monday, and after reading P0325 (KS) and P0420 (main cat) I reset the ECU and the light has stayed off for about 50 miles. (still is off) I do not need to pass emissions anytime soon, just want to see if the ECU is really reset.
My CEL came on on Monday, and after reading P0325 (KS) and P0420 (main cat) I reset the ECU and the light has stayed off for about 50 miles. (still is off) I do not need to pass emissions anytime soon, just want to see if the ECU is really reset.
03-08-2007, 03:49 PM
#37
Originally Posted by matty
Alright guys heres the deal. I have a place to go get tested and they said they can pass me if I have TWO out of the FOUR rediness codes....
-Catylst
-EGR
-O2 Heater
-O2 Sensor
I dont have EGR nor a CAT but everything is plugged in and I have NEVER had a code for either one.
I only have ONE ready out of the four ready. The 02 Heater. I then pulled the car out and took a ride with the car to get it warmed up...came back, same thing... I stood there with the owner of the shop and hes telling me that Im not getting the Readyness codes because of my Emanage piggyback system. The Emanage has NOTHING to do with emissions testing nor anything to with the lights.
WHY arent the other three perameteres going into READY ???
Any help would be great with others having experience with this. I read about the readyness driving patterns a bit, and the place is 20 miles from me...I would obviously have to do it on a highway by me...NOT a bit deal, but after the test is run, can I drive down to the place to get tested, or does it have to happen right away ??
-matt
-Catylst
-EGR
-O2 Heater
-O2 Sensor
I dont have EGR nor a CAT but everything is plugged in and I have NEVER had a code for either one.
I only have ONE ready out of the four ready. The 02 Heater. I then pulled the car out and took a ride with the car to get it warmed up...came back, same thing... I stood there with the owner of the shop and hes telling me that Im not getting the Readyness codes because of my Emanage piggyback system. The Emanage has NOTHING to do with emissions testing nor anything to with the lights.
WHY arent the other three perameteres going into READY ???
Any help would be great with others having experience with this. I read about the readyness driving patterns a bit, and the place is 20 miles from me...I would obviously have to do it on a highway by me...NOT a bit deal, but after the test is run, can I drive down to the place to get tested, or does it have to happen right away ??
-matt
On my Maxima even with all o2 sensors and a OEM cat installed the cat converter and o2 sensor would not goto ready. No matter how many driving patterns I did or trips I took. What was causing it was the SMT-6 being wired in. Going back to stock wiring and running the correct driving pattern it was ready in one trip. So be wary of the Emanage being installed on your car.
Anyways try following the specific driving pattern for the car and see if the systems goto ready.
http://lyberty.com/car/Maxima_A32_docs/NTB98-018c.pdf
Also are you running a '95 Fed Spec ECU? Im thinking this because you did not mention EVAP readiness at all. And if you are running the '95 Fed Spec ECU use the '96 Altima Fed Spec M/T driving pattern.
03-08-2007, 05:37 PM
#38
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (54)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Northern Jersey
Posts: 10,166
Originally Posted by 98SEBlackMax
O2 heater will activate with about 1~2 mins of driving. No EGR in your car may not cause a CEL but it may never goto ready. No cat will cause the system to not goto ready, especially with a o2 simulator. The 4th gen ECU isn't as dumb as we would like to think it is. It checks emissons sensors for expected operation variations and just putting a resistor, o2 sim , or leaving something plugged in but not installed doesn't cut it.
On my Maxima even with all o2 sensors and a OEM cat installed the cat converter and o2 sensor would not goto ready. No matter how many driving patterns I did or trips I took. What was causing it was the SMT-6 being wired in. Going back to stock wiring and running the correct driving pattern it was ready in one trip. So be wary of the Emanage being installed on your car.
Anyways try following the specific driving pattern for the car and see if the systems goto ready.
http://lyberty.com/car/Maxima_A32_docs/NTB98-018c.pdf
Also are you running a '95 Fed Spec ECU? Im thinking this because you did not mention EVAP readiness at all. And if you are running the '95 Fed Spec ECU use the '96 Altima Fed Spec M/T driving pattern.
On my Maxima even with all o2 sensors and a OEM cat installed the cat converter and o2 sensor would not goto ready. No matter how many driving patterns I did or trips I took. What was causing it was the SMT-6 being wired in. Going back to stock wiring and running the correct driving pattern it was ready in one trip. So be wary of the Emanage being installed on your car.
Anyways try following the specific driving pattern for the car and see if the systems goto ready.
http://lyberty.com/car/Maxima_A32_docs/NTB98-018c.pdf
Also are you running a '95 Fed Spec ECU? Im thinking this because you did not mention EVAP readiness at all. And if you are running the '95 Fed Spec ECU use the '96 Altima Fed Spec M/T driving pattern.
I do think im running a 95 Fed Spec ECU. When I do the driving pattern, do I reset the ECU before I do that, after Im done, can I drive to the place to do it...How long do I have to check the computer if the Two are Ready ??
I dont have a Cat, but the O2 is still plugged in. I dont have an EGR, but its all plugged in and good.
If I cant get it to go to ready, Im pretty much SOL ??
-matt
03-08-2007, 05:49 PM
#40
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (54)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Northern Jersey
Posts: 10,166
Originally Posted by 90stanza
As of now my area doesnt require smog test yet. so if my check engine light is on i just reset it and they dont even have a clue it was on 2 mins ago.
Anyone else have anything else to say ???-matt