I found the perfect suspension setup
10-01-2006, 01:20 PM
#81
Originally Posted by d00df00d
Progress springs are about a 2" drop, so let's use that: When you're at rest, your damper piston actually has 2" more compression than it would have at rest with stock springs, which means it has 2" less travel before it bottoms out. Shortening the strut by moving the cartridge downward effectively raises the spring perch in relation to the piston stroke, recovering some of that lost travel.
...Does that make sense?
...Does that make sense?
If by "moving the cartridge downward" you mean "moving the cartridge upward" then it makes complete sense to me. But raising the spring perch would actually leave less compression travel than lowering it... unless I'm missing something?
Anyway this is how i understand it as MaximaSE96 explained it (progression of process from left to right obviously):
EDIT: And it seems that I'm wrong. But that should work as well as long as you could mill the new portion of the rod down a bit and rethread it?
10-01-2006, 04:25 PM
#82
I think you have your drawing upside down or something. You dont need to cut the rod, thats a whole different issue concerning droop travel and/or too short/loose springs.
Whats done with Konis is quite simple. The length of the insert is 23.5" total. That includes a 1" threaded bung if you will on the bottom. This is used to hold it into the housing with a bolt from the bottom. To shorten it you cut some off the bung, drill a larger hole in the housing so the bung sticks out slightly. This lets it fall 1" in the housing.
http://www.johnandtracey.com/gallery/struts
Also a 3rd gen instert is actually 20" total, which is 3.5" shorter than the 4th gen. Its actually too short to use with a regular drop spring. In that case it can be shimmed to the proper length.
Whats done with Konis is quite simple. The length of the insert is 23.5" total. That includes a 1" threaded bung if you will on the bottom. This is used to hold it into the housing with a bolt from the bottom. To shorten it you cut some off the bung, drill a larger hole in the housing so the bung sticks out slightly. This lets it fall 1" in the housing.
http://www.johnandtracey.com/gallery/struts
Also a 3rd gen instert is actually 20" total, which is 3.5" shorter than the 4th gen. Its actually too short to use with a regular drop spring. In that case it can be shimmed to the proper length.
10-01-2006, 04:49 PM
#83
Ah yes, it all makes sense now. For some reason, even after working on the suspension of my car, I automatically think of the strut rods extending downwards and the strut body being the top half. You can probably understand my confusion now.
Got it, thanks guys, and sorry for my shortsightedness.
And I've already got 4th gen Konis, so I'm not going to be purchasing 3rd gen inserts (unless that was for someone else).
And what sort of symptoms would I notice when bottoming out the struts, any strange noises/rattling?
Oh, one more thing. Would this compromise reversability? That is, if I decided to put stock springs back on, would I notice "topping out" more, or are the inserts just too long for their own good?
Got it, thanks guys, and sorry for my shortsightedness.
And I've already got 4th gen Konis, so I'm not going to be purchasing 3rd gen inserts (unless that was for someone else).
And what sort of symptoms would I notice when bottoming out the struts, any strange noises/rattling?
Oh, one more thing. Would this compromise reversability? That is, if I decided to put stock springs back on, would I notice "topping out" more, or are the inserts just too long for their own good?
10-01-2006, 04:57 PM
#84
Originally Posted by d00df00d
Progress springs are about a 2" drop, so let's use that: When you're at rest, your damper piston actually has 2" more compression than it would have at rest with stock springs, which means it has 2" less travel before it bottoms out. Shortening the strut by moving the cartridge downward effectively raises the spring perch in relation to the piston stroke, recovering some of that lost travel.
...Does that make sense?
...Does that make sense?
10-01-2006, 06:39 PM
#86
Originally Posted by MorpheusZero
Yes it all makes sense when you take a patronizing tone, thanks.
Originally Posted by MorpheusZero
Ah yes, it all makes sense now. For some reason, even after working on the suspension of my car, I automatically think of the strut rods extending downwards and the strut body being the top half. You can probably understand my confusion now.
Got it, thanks guys, and sorry for my shortsightedness.
Got it, thanks guys, and sorry for my shortsightedness.
Originally Posted by MorpheusZero
And what sort of symptoms would I notice when bottoming out the struts, any strange noises/rattling?
Originally Posted by MorpheusZero
Oh, one more thing. Would this compromise reversability? That is, if I decided to put stock springs back on, would I notice "topping out" more, or are the inserts just too long for their own good?
Originally Posted by MaximaSE96
Dont mean to nit pick...but more like 1.7"
EDIT: Deleted ride height comment after JStutter's post below...
10-01-2006, 07:14 PM
#88
Originally Posted by 95maxrider
I'm confused. You put on SE springs, and they lowered your car? I remember .......... but doing the same to 3rd gen yellows. Is cutting the 4th gen yellows more difficult?
i likey ur car max rider... i wan those wheels...
back to topic.. man.. about 1.5 years too late.. .well i dropped mine on Vogtland springs.. and illuminas.. 2.5 finger gap all around
the springs were from europe for the maxima gv ...
i compared them to eibachs and h&r ... the vogtland ones had more coils... and seemed like if i unwind it it would be longer than the eibachs or h&r...
as far as stiffness.. with the my shocks set to 3 all around.. i feel its quite comfortable.. and as far as handeling with the stock bbs wheels and toyo PTP touring tires.. seems pretty nice.. NO RSB. cause i didnt have chance to get one on yet...
so its an imporovement from the FLOATie feeling..
10-01-2006, 08:02 PM
#89
Originally Posted by d00df00d
lots of words
No harm done, I was more teasing you than taking it seriously as I know you didn't mean it that way.
10-01-2006, 11:38 PM
#90
I had stock SE suspension (okay I had a FSTB) and just replaced my almost bald Michelin Energies with Kumho SPTs and that made a night and day difference on my cornering, no flooring through the corner to maintain understeer. Stuck like glue. Then I added a Progress RSB and Blehmco LTB and that was a dusk-and-day difference (not as big as the Kumho's, but still very good). I agree that the RSB adds oversteer -- if I slammed on the brakes in an intense corner, the rear end would slip. Feels more balanced and nix on the body roll, so I'm happy. Someday I might lower my car, but for now it works okay.
So, thumbs up to the OP. Don't be slamming your brakes in the middle of a corner if you wanna keep your body straight!
So, thumbs up to the OP. Don't be slamming your brakes in the middle of a corner if you wanna keep your body straight!
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