Working on my car is becoming impossible.
10-09-2006, 08:43 PM
#1
Working on my car is becoming impossible.
It's sooooo frustrating. I just spent 2 hours trying to replace my control arm. It should be a half an hour job, but every single ****** bolt is seized up with rust. I love not having a car payment, but everytime I need to fix something it is becoming a pain in the azz. My car is 10 years old now and I was going to keep it until it dies on me, but I don't think I can put up with normal wear and tear anymore. I have air tools and a 150 psi air tank, but I couldn't remove the bolts that attach the control arm to the bottom of the car. It's late now and I have to get up at 6:00.
/rant
Anyone else starting to feel this way? Ohio winters FTMFL!!!
/rant
Anyone else starting to feel this way? Ohio winters FTMFL!!!
10-09-2006, 08:52 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 258
i feel your pain...i got air tools as well upto 150psi and those are week for these type of bolts..
mechanics air tools go upto 500psi easily..so what i did is i bought a "breaker bar" and that DOES IT ALL...thats what u need
GOOD LUCK
mechanics air tools go upto 500psi easily..so what i did is i bought a "breaker bar" and that DOES IT ALL...thats what u need
GOOD LUCK
10-10-2006, 10:05 AM
#3
Originally Posted by gassian
i feel your pain...i got air tools as well upto 150psi and those are week for these type of bolts..
mechanics air tools go upto 500psi easily..so what i did is i bought a "breaker bar" and that DOES IT ALL...thats what u need
GOOD LUCK
mechanics air tools go upto 500psi easily..so what i did is i bought a "breaker bar" and that DOES IT ALL...thats what u need
GOOD LUCK
a good breaker bar is MUCH better than your average air compressor! Also get some sort of pipe to stick ontop of the breaker bar, for an even longer one.
10-10-2006, 03:14 PM
#8
This reminds me when I did the first major cleaning of my car after I got it, I was trying to remove a bolt/screw...the rust was so bad from the battery acid corrosion it looked like the bolt was welded onto the support and then it rusted...it was so bad, there wasnt even the + hole for the screwdriver...
10-10-2006, 05:32 PM
#11
Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 64
oxy-actelyne torch works great, but it depends where it is stuck. A nut that won't come off, no problem. But if it is stuck in the bushing, that is a new problem that is hard to deal with. Leaf springs are terrible for this. If it is stuck in the bushing, a torch won't help much unless you cut the heads off and replace the bolt. An air chisel works well sometimes, and they make stronger air guns with more torque. The impact action of the air gun is usually better than brute force. At my shop, we have 1/2" air guns by Mac and ingersol rand which work great, very high torque. The extra money for a good air gun is worth it.
10-10-2006, 07:45 PM
#13
Well, I got the bolts ut tonight. The problem wasn't in my air compressor, it was in my impact. It wasn' strong enough to remove the bolts, but I borrowed my father in laws Mac impact and it broke them loose. I tried a breaker bar, but I couldn't get any leverage to give it any torque. Another Maxima saga is over. Later this week I will be replacing the rear calipers on my wife's Maxima. The fun never ends.
10-10-2006, 10:46 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Weth CT
Posts: 144
Damn bro i feel ya. I ****ed up my lower control arm on my supra, and the bolts were rusted to hell i could not take it off.... i ened up replacing the whole front subframe.... and than, my engine detonated. 
10-11-2006, 06:54 AM
#15
Originally Posted by maxfanfromohio
It's sooooo frustrating. I just spent 2 hours trying to replace my control arm. It should be a half an hour job, but every single ****** bolt is seized up with rust. I love not having a car payment, but everytime I need to fix something it is becoming a pain in the azz. My car is 10 years old now and I was going to keep it until it dies on me, but I don't think I can put up with normal wear and tear anymore. I have air tools and a 150 psi air tank, but I couldn't remove the bolts that attach the control arm to the bottom of the car. It's late now and I have to get up at 6:00.
/rant
Anyone else starting to feel this way? Ohio winters FTMFL!!!
/rant
Anyone else starting to feel this way? Ohio winters FTMFL!!!
I had similiar problems with my 97SE and used a breaker bar with a pipe for leverage. Job took me 5 hrs to do ONE side. I dont have ANY air tools, it's strictly a breaker bar and a pipe. This weekend I replaced both control arms, ball joints and stabiliser links on my 93SE. Took me about 6 hrs for both sides. I borrowed a small propane torch (I think thats what its called) and eventually had to burn the rubber bushings on the control arm in order to remove them. In addition to all of this some of the threading for the bolts that goes into the chassis is stripped so I have to get a tap and die set to rethread it. So if it's any consolation, just know that you arent the only one.
On a side note I think these are typical problems for cars around this age.Rust will damage your car more than a bitter ex wife. I THINK that sometimes it's better to save enough money and do a complete job. If youre doing the front end, do it in it's entirety (brakes, shocks, control arm, axles etc) It's more expensive but it doesnt involve so much additional labour and it's basically a major headache over with.
Also, the control arms I bought have grease nipples which I bel. are better since it can be lubricated.Does yours also have a grease nipple?
10-11-2006, 07:02 AM
#16
Originally Posted by Brudda Bob
I had similiar problems with my 97SE and used a breaker bar with a pipe for leverage. Job took me 5 hrs to do ONE side. I dont have ANY air tools, it's strictly a breaker bar and a pipe. This weekend I replaced both control arms, ball joints and stabiliser links on my 93SE. Took me about 6 hrs for both sides. I borrowed a small propane torch (I think thats what its called) and eventually had to burn the rubber bushings on the control arm in order to remove them. In addition to all of this some of the threading for the bolts that goes into the chassis is stripped so I have to get a tap and die set to rethread it. So if it's any consolation, just know that you arent the only one.
On a side note I think these are typical problems for cars around this age.Rust will damage your car more than a bitter ex wife. I THINK that sometimes it's better to save enough money and do a complete job. If youre doing the front end, do it in it's entirety (brakes, shocks, control arm, axles etc) It's more expensive but it doesnt involve so much additional labour and it's basically a major headache over with.
Also, the control arms I bought have grease nipples which I bel. are better since it can be lubricated.Does yours also have a grease nipple?
On a side note I think these are typical problems for cars around this age.Rust will damage your car more than a bitter ex wife. I THINK that sometimes it's better to save enough money and do a complete job. If youre doing the front end, do it in it's entirety (brakes, shocks, control arm, axles etc) It's more expensive but it doesnt involve so much additional labour and it's basically a major headache over with.
Also, the control arms I bought have grease nipples which I bel. are better since it can be lubricated.Does yours also have a grease nipple?
I can't remember for sure, but I think it did.
10-12-2006, 08:08 AM
#18
i live here in CA but my maxima is from east coast so its pretty much rusted and ****. i know how it feels man. i hate dealing with those rusted bolts so hopefully by next year i get to sell my maxima. and move on to better and unrusted car.
p.s. i love my maxima by the way, dont get me wrong
p.s. i love my maxima by the way, dont get me wrong
10-12-2006, 08:16 AM
#19
A lot of some bolt are a pain to get too. But with a stronger good and the socket nice and snugg on the bolt it will break free. I think we have all experienced working on what should be an easy and quick fix, but we get stuck on one one bolt that wont break free. We spend way too much time and we finally break it free, were happy and try to finish off what should have been the quick easy fix.
10-12-2006, 04:25 PM
#20
I just had a bad experience changeing the rear brakes. I forgot the way you compress the caliper and when I finally figured out you have to turn it it took me a good hour. What a pain in the A$$ why would nissan do this??? A 20 min job took me 3hr's and a really soar back.
And my bolts are 170,000 mlies old, which makes things alot worst.
And my bolts are 170,000 mlies old, which makes things alot worst.
10-12-2006, 08:02 PM
#21
Originally Posted by babymac
I just had a bad experience changeing the rear brakes. I forgot the way you compress the caliper and when I finally figured out you have to turn it it took me a good hour. What a pain in the A$$ why would nissan do this??? A 20 min job took me 3hr's and a really soar back.
And my bolts are 170,000 mlies old, which makes things alot worst.
And my bolts are 170,000 mlies old, which makes things alot worst.
I'd rather deal with screw in rear piston calipers on a disc setup, than rear drums.
10-12-2006, 09:48 PM
#22
yep, with penetrating fluid and a 24" breakerbar ive been able to take off almost any bolt ive had to encounter. The only one i havent been able to take off is the 36mm that holds the axle to the steering knuckle. that required the ingersol impact gun on steroids. i couldnt belive how easy it got it off.
my favorite tool 600ft.lbs torque
http://www.irtools.com/IS/product.asp-en-2849
my favorite tool 600ft.lbs torque
http://www.irtools.com/IS/product.asp-en-2849
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