TurTLe*

iTrader: (11)

So i had a KS fault, and i drove the car and it felt strong still. none the less. i disconnected my KS and drove on it for a while and i felt a huge lost of power. figured the timing retarded instantly and thats why car is slow. i replaced it clear the fault drove 300+ miles on it and it still feels sluggish. its been 3 days now. i just recently checked for faults and none were present. i tested the o2's thru the consult test and it all passed i looked at current igntion timing and it was 15 before top dead. a checked the specs with the FSM, specs for FSM is 15 +/- 2 at neutral. i was in Park when i did it. so i'm going to say its within specs. i drove the car and it just feels slower regaurdless. i'm stumped, no faults timing is to specs but power isn't there.

alleydawg6

iTrader: (23)

I think the KS is a ghost code ... meaning it won't show up ... you just feel the effects a bad one has, judging from what you are saying, I think your KS is on it's way out ....

sky jumper

do you work at a Nissan dealer? how do you have access to consult? or are you just using a GST?

I suggest plugging in a GST that can display live sensor data and drive the car around a bit. Watch the ignition timing - under moderate acceleration/throttle (50%) it should not fall below ~20 -- I have verified this on my car. if the KS is bad it will stay below 10. cruising at highway speeds it should be in the mid 40s. there's some info in the stickies on this.

all of this of course assumes you are running premium gas. you can borrow a high end GST from Murray's.

TurTLe*

iTrader: (11)

i have powers =) i can use a consult 2 at nights

under mid revin i was at 40's BTDC once i let off it was ranging about 4 then smoothed out and back to 15. but specs state in Neutral it should be 15. never stated when accleration what it should be tho.

i looked over all my test info and everything seems to past. my o2's are within the specs and past the test. injectors were pulsing within specs IACV works the way it is




this is all info with the NEW KS, and it was a ghost code. never a light on, just when i had a hard starting i pulled that code out and i fixed what i needed since i know a KS had nothing to do with hard starting.

TurTLe*

iTrader: (11)

so i tested again with consult, everything is within specs. probaly me expecting too much from a knock sensor due to everything *****ing and ranting about how the KS can do wonders for your car.

On a side note, i tested the ohms on my old sensor. OFL, or 0 ohms coming out of it. So indeed it was bad, but disconnecting it gave it a serious drop of power. everything is to specs but car feels like its not as fast, but nothing to be complaining about.