Help!!! fan speed control switch
11-15-2006, 05:29 PM
#1
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: southeast ma
Posts: 485
Help!!! fan speed control switch
Help my fan control speed switch stopped working. happened last weekend when driving back to school. It is either off or full blast all of the middle speeds work as vents and will let air through as I drive but no fan blowing the air through. I stopped by the nearest nissan dealer and they told me it wasn't the switch but a resistor somewhere behind the dash and the part costs $50 so im assuming labor would be up there also. So has this happened to anyone else and if so did any one do it themselves, if so could you tell me where the resistor is and how i should try to get to it. I haven't checked fuses yet due to rain since sunday I will try to check those although I dont beleive thats the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated. .... I also failed an inspecion on monday due to a CEL being on I have a print out of the codes that through it I think they were all Evap and one o2 heater any ideas how much it would cost to get these fixed
11-15-2006, 05:33 PM
#2
I had the same problem and it was the resistor. I had it changed for 30 bucks. The place that did it does stereos, alarms, and some other stuff. I have no idea how to change it, but maybe check out the Haynes Manual it probably has some info.
11-15-2006, 05:48 PM
#3
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: southeast ma
Posts: 485
what type of stereo shop did you go to and was that 30 for the part and the labor or was it just labor if i can go to a stereo shop and have them do it ill be all set and probably save a lot of money as compared to going through the stealership
11-15-2006, 06:28 PM
#4
The heater blower resistor is directly behind the glovebox. Drop the glovebox from the dash, then youll see the heater box assy. Right there, youll see 2 bolts holding in a rectangular piece. Thats it. Remove the bolts, pull it out, put the new one in. Easy cheesey.. will take you longer pulling the glovebox, but even that is pretty simple..
Let me know what codes you have.. usually either o2 sensors or evap valves.. either way I may have you covered. and Im pretty local! PM me.
DJ
Let me know what codes you have.. usually either o2 sensors or evap valves.. either way I may have you covered. and Im pretty local! PM me.
DJ
11-15-2006, 07:52 PM
#5
Originally Posted by massfastmax
what type of stereo shop did you go to and was that 30 for the part and the labor or was it just labor if i can go to a stereo shop and have them do it ill be all set and probably save a lot of money as compared to going through the stealership
11-16-2006, 05:02 AM
#6
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: southeast ma
Posts: 485
thanks everyone and I'll find the codes out today when i get back from class. dj thankyou for the location and ill get back to you with the codes i think they were evap valves and something to do with an o2 sensor im just not 100% sure what exactly. I get out of class around noon but maybe earlier so I willl have more info around then.
11-16-2006, 05:00 PM
#8
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: southeast ma
Posts: 485
OK so i went out and checked the ecu codes from the paperwork the insepection station gave me. they are P0100 , P0325 , PO450 , P0141 , and P0446 i checked them on the sticky and they translate to codes 0102 , 0304 , 0704 , 0902 , 0903 (in the same order as above). I looked at the stickies and read up on how to check them but how hard will it be to fix all and get cleared would I be able to do all in one day or would it take longer. Or would it be worth it to go to a shop and just pay them to fix it.
11-16-2006, 05:12 PM
#9
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: southeast ma
Posts: 485
0102 - is a Mass air flow sensor i probably just have to mount it better to my injen cold air intake i think i can do that one.
0304 - is a knock sensor this probably has to be replaced due to highflow y pipe cat and full exhaust except headers
0704 - EVAP control system pressure sensor this I am lost on and would need someone to lend some advice or a hand.
0902 - Diagnostic Trouble Code 0902 points to a problem with the Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater.
The malfunction is detected when the current in the Oxygen Sensor heater circuit is out of the normal range.
Possible causes include ...
- the electrical harnesses
- the connector
- the Oxygen Sensor heaters
You may test the heater with an ohmmeter. This test is done with the engine off.
0903 - EVAP Canister vent control valve this one I am also lost on and any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated
I have no idea about what to do on the o2 sensor problems or how expensive any of this is going to be and the resistor I have to replace does anyone know what size or type resistor it would be so I dont have to pay the $50 to get it from nissan, or do I have to get it through them.
0304 - is a knock sensor this probably has to be replaced due to highflow y pipe cat and full exhaust except headers
0704 - EVAP control system pressure sensor this I am lost on and would need someone to lend some advice or a hand.
0902 - Diagnostic Trouble Code 0902 points to a problem with the Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater.
The malfunction is detected when the current in the Oxygen Sensor heater circuit is out of the normal range.
Possible causes include ...
- the electrical harnesses
- the connector
- the Oxygen Sensor heaters
You may test the heater with an ohmmeter. This test is done with the engine off.
0903 - EVAP Canister vent control valve this one I am also lost on and any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated
I have no idea about what to do on the o2 sensor problems or how expensive any of this is going to be and the resistor I have to replace does anyone know what size or type resistor it would be so I dont have to pay the $50 to get it from nissan, or do I have to get it through them.
11-17-2006, 04:34 PM
#11
Originally Posted by DJ42o96maX
The heater blower resistor is directly behind the glovebox. Drop the glovebox from the dash, then youll see the heater box assy. Right there, youll see 2 bolts holding in a rectangular piece. Thats it. Remove the bolts, pull it out, put the new one in. Easy cheesey.. will take you longer pulling the glovebox, but even that is pretty simple..
Let me know what codes you have.. usually either o2 sensors or evap valves.. either way I may have you covered. and Im pretty local! PM me.
DJ
Let me know what codes you have.. usually either o2 sensors or evap valves.. either way I may have you covered. and Im pretty local! PM me.
DJ
11-17-2006, 05:44 PM
#12
Tighten yer mass air flow..
Knock sensor WILL be set off by EVAP as well as O2 codes. Fix those first.
Replace yer rear O2 sensor. If you need one, I have one brand new in package, OEM Nissan. $80 SHIPPED. It lists for $147, and while aftermarket is available, I never recommend it.
Replace yer Canister Vent Valve (located on the canister, behind the rear driver side wheel). When this is bad, it can affect the system pressure, CAUSING the system pressure sensor code. Fix THIS ONE FIRST. If you need one, I have one.. brand new in the box, OEM Nissan, $70 SHIPPED. This lists for over $110 at the dealer, and is a dealer only part.
The resistor is a DEALER PART. Get it there, its quite inexpensive! $20ish
After doing the above, flash ECU to clear codes. Drive and see if any codes come back.. you should be good to go. Let me know if you need either of those thing.. paypal ready.
DJ
Knock sensor WILL be set off by EVAP as well as O2 codes. Fix those first.
Replace yer rear O2 sensor. If you need one, I have one brand new in package, OEM Nissan. $80 SHIPPED. It lists for $147, and while aftermarket is available, I never recommend it.
Replace yer Canister Vent Valve (located on the canister, behind the rear driver side wheel). When this is bad, it can affect the system pressure, CAUSING the system pressure sensor code. Fix THIS ONE FIRST. If you need one, I have one.. brand new in the box, OEM Nissan, $70 SHIPPED. This lists for over $110 at the dealer, and is a dealer only part.
The resistor is a DEALER PART. Get it there, its quite inexpensive! $20ish
After doing the above, flash ECU to clear codes. Drive and see if any codes come back.. you should be good to go. Let me know if you need either of those thing.. paypal ready.
DJ
11-18-2006, 08:25 AM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 509
no no no you do not have to drop the glove box. its mounted by two screws by the passanger footwell, near the door.
sorry for the crappy pic, but pull out the cable and the screw on the top, then there is one on the bottom. voila, 30 second job
sorry for the crappy pic, but pull out the cable and the screw on the top, then there is one on the bottom. voila, 30 second job
11-19-2006, 10:13 AM
#14
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: southeast ma
Posts: 485
thanks everyonw and hopefully i can get this done over thanksgiving break dj I might try to get in touch with you and then maybe buy some of those parts. Ill be in touch and hopefully have my max back to perfect in no time
11-20-2006, 02:50 PM
#15
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: southeast ma
Posts: 485
ok so I went to a junkyard to try to get the resistor thing that I need and found 2 out of all the maxs that were there came back to school and tried tochange it. getting to it and changing it was no problem but neither of them fixed it. so im guessing that either both of the resistors from the junkyard were bad or it must be something else. Does any one know how to tell if the resistor is good and if not a dealership in southeastern ma that would sell the resistor for cheap cause the dealer near my school said it was like $50 and I think thats way to much especially seeing that someone said it was close to 20 and dj I am gonna have to call you or get back to you because if you still have those parts i think im gonna buy them off you, thanks all for the help and hopefully i can fix my car over this next week
11-21-2006, 06:54 PM
#16
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: southeast ma
Posts: 485
ok well I finaaly broke down and went to the stealership and got the resistor it took maybe 5 minutes to swap out the old burnt out one and put the new one in. one thing I noticed was the fact that the resistor i bought was much smaller than the one that im throwing out but they said it was the right part and my fans are back to working now i can comfortably heat my car instead of cooking it.now to tackle the other problems and hopefully pickup the parts from dj
12-03-2006, 08:36 PM
#17
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: southeast ma
Posts: 485
OK I havent been able to do much of aything because of school and low money. I still have all the code problems and just started noticing my car shaking really rough when i accelerate from 55- 70 then it kind of goes away but not completelywhat could this be and does anyone know a respectable shop around the fall river new bedford Mass area that could help do some work on my codes any help is appreciated
12-03-2006, 09:21 PM
#19
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: southeast ma
Posts: 485
thats what i thought but why would it only happen at those speeds then kind of go away? I'll check them tomorrow but i dont think thats what it isI do believe one of my front rotors may be a little warped but that still doesn't make sense that it gets really bad all of a sudden at 55-60ish
12-03-2006, 10:26 PM
#20
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 1
i dont mean to hijak the thread, but i have a heater problem as well, and seeing how i cant make threads, this place looks the most appropriate.
my heater only comes on while im driving above a certain speed, when my car is standing still air flows out of my vents but its not warm, if i drive 30mph, it starts working and seems like its working 100% when im above 50mph. i have the auto-climate controls on a 1996 SE.
any help?
my heater only comes on while im driving above a certain speed, when my car is standing still air flows out of my vents but its not warm, if i drive 30mph, it starts working and seems like its working 100% when im above 50mph. i have the auto-climate controls on a 1996 SE.
any help?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post